Mitch's 72 Basket Case

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htown16, Your gearbox spacer needs to go between the cradle and the gearbox top mount Part #030023

Phil

See gearbox top bolt spacer below
 
The spacer part number that you referenced is in between the gear box and cradle on the drive side, just hard to see. What you may be looking at is a flat washer I inserted between the gearbox adjuster and the cradle on the upper bolt. The parts manual doesn't show one but in order to get the best alignment I needed to use one. As a matter of fact I bent the first adjuster I tried without the washer.
 
htown16 said:
Been a while, but time for an update.
Have installed the reed valve breather from Mikes XS650 along with a breather filter.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Carbs rebuilt with new innards including stayup floats and ready to be installed.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Carbs back on the bike with K&N airfilters. Those manifold bolts are a pain. Also very little clearance for the airfilters.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

New rear wiring harness going on.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

New front headlight harness.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Battery in with new hardware. Sparx rectifier above airfilters
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Cool Cat assimilator replacement and Pazon ignition. All the wiring is hooked up now and functional, ignition, lights, horn even the warning lights. Amazing what a new harness will do. I kept all the stock leads intact so that it could be potentially put back to standard.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Well all the bins and baggies have been emptied and every last part has been bolted on. Thank goodness no unkown pieces left over.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Just taking a break for a few weeks to sit back and admire, then try to fire it up and begin the sorting process.
Click to expand...

With the electronic ignition fitted do you still need the 2MC in circuit?
 
I don't think it matters which ignition system you use. The assimilator only has three wires. One goes to alternator lead, the other to the light and the third is ground. Its all on the charging circuit.
Time to update.
First start up was 11/18.
Fired on the third kick. Everything looked good. No unusual noises, good oil return, minimal leaks, little bit of blue smoke that dropped off. Got the timing set. Currently retorqueing head bolts, adjusting valves and carbs.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case
 
Looking great, Mitch...love those Cmdo Specialties seamless peashooters...I put a pair on 2 years ago...great sound and the chrome finish is very durable...just a little chrome polish once in a while keeps them perfect.
 
Returning from the first ride.
Mitch's 72 Basket Case

Mitch's 72 Basket Case

My wife was waiting with the camara for the sound of me coming back or else for her cell phone to ring.
I've got the carbs and timing dialed in now and a shifting issue taken care of. Now to put some miles on.
I guess this is the end of this thread. Undoubtly more questions are going to come up but they will be new threads. Thanks to everyone on the board for all the comments and suggestions you have made during this process.
 
I can just see you and Dave Newsome riding down the street - "Banana Split"
 
Now , wipe that silly grin off youre face . :p :D

The Old Intake Manifold - allen Key trick . :(
cutting a custom one to suit can be usefull ,
longish but clearing rear flange . For types that dont overtighten initially
carrying it for a while sees you have em snugged down as the gaskets settle.

Some irritable sods change the oil at 50 miles , too . Just to be awkward .
or is that somewhat particular .

Off for a spin in the country , to get away from the madding crowd ? :mrgreen:
 
Yeah about 1/2" long bend and good to file bevel on the hex edges too and carry it with you as its not uncommon for manifold to get air leaks away from home.
 
Will pick up a cheap set of allen wrenches tomorrow to mod one. Planning an oil change fairly soon. It has Rotella 15/40 diesel oil in it now for initial start up. Appears like the rings bedded in okay, no smoke apparent, so will be switching to Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil which is what I am running in my other bikes. Since I live out in the boondocks and don't have to worry about traffic, I can be fairly gentle on the break-in, just trying to keep the tach in the 2500-3500 range.
The speedo was working okay at first but now it is jumping all over the place. Will send it off to Nisongers for a rebuild. Every speedo I have dealt with seems to go bad after a short while. I guess sitting unused for a significant time period ruins them.
 
Can keep using the Rotella forever but does tend to leak more than 20-50. Don't lug the thing run er on up to 5000 must as practical pretty much WOT as ya work up gears but easy on shifts points. Its the cam oil wege factor that is most vital to get bedded in now and that requires rpms held a while. Your onion rings are already done read for service. New gearbox rebuids also good to flush break in oil or ATF. There is nothing to baby into shape that wouldn't of already blown up. Spin her to burnish polish the lifters on lobes for best grins long term.
 
My experience with Joel Levine in Atlanta for meter rebuilds has been PERFECT over 20+ pairs (40 total rebuilds). Very fair price, and quick turn-around. Plus, he can make any core into any spec; you don't need to send him the exact core for what you need to put on the bike, just specify what you need back.
 
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