hi there from north ca

hello all, my name is tavis and i picked up my first norton commando last week. it's a 74 850, i sold all of my vintage honda and suzuki projects to get it. look forward to gaining knowledge about this thing from you guys.

here she is the night i got her home.

Iusedto...
Welcome!

It looks as if you got a nice unmolested example of a '74! The only missing piece I can see in the pictures is the chainguard extension. With liberal amounts of elbow grease, re-painting and re-chroming and either cad plating the existing fasteners or replacing with stainless, you will have a real beauty.

What are your plans for the mechanicals? Change the fluids and fire it up? Pull the motor and gearbox for a complete strip and refresh?

Do you plan on using it as a daily rider or occasional or show and shine?

i there from north ca

Over head oil lines look a bit suspect to me, but what do I know. Looks to be very complete.
jt

Looks like a good find. How much$$ Figure out your budget numbers early and try and stick to it. Ditto on the oil lines and the plating. You might want to either invest in some rework for the standard carbs or get a single Mikuniw/air filter. I would price out the pipes also. Good luck!
A good parts reference here in the states is Clubmanracing.com
Mike

thanks for the info. i lurked around a few forums and found this to be the one with the best all around knowledge, and used some tips before making the buy. the bike is actually cleaner in person, and in daylight. it was sitting in a woman's garage since 1986 and has 4,060 miles on it. i want to get road ready and ride it for the summer, then dig into it over the winter.

i got it running on friday night after an oil change, carb clean, plugs and a battery. i rode it up and down my street, and noticed a couple things that'll need to be addressed to make it road ready. i pulled the master cylinder apart and rebuilt it on saturday, stops great. maybe some of you guys can help me out a little.

-when i pull the throttle and it snaps back, the idle kicks up, hunts around, then drops to where it should be.

-first, neutral, and second are a little hard to get to. i mean it takes a lot of force to get the trans to upshift/downshift, then finding neutral. it is easy when it's on the center stand, don't understand why that would be different. i did change the trans oil before the initial startup.

-lastly, it seems to be a hard starter. on friday, it started on the 3rd kick, after sitting for 25 years. now everytime i go to start it, it seems to take more and more kicks. i checked the points, didn't seem burned up. maybe i don't have the "sweet spot" down yet?

i think that's it for now, i'm sure i'll find more faults before long.

thanks!!

-when i pull the throttle and it snaps back, the idle kicks up, hunts around, then drops to where it should be.

This could be air leaks from worn slides, long term cure is to have them resleeved so the slide and carb body are different materials so do not gall, orginally they were both zinc and wear rapidly.

-first, neutral, and second are a little hard to get to. i mean it takes a lot of force to get the trans to upshift/downshift, then finding neutral. it is easy when it's on the center stand, don't understand why that would be different. i did change the trans oil before the initial startup.

Check your chain tensions, sounds like the primary is set too tight, make sure you follow the manual routine as otherwise the first bit of power will move the gearbox and change the chain tensions as they are related eg primary and rear.

-lastly, it seems to be a hard starter. on friday, it started on the 3rd kick, after sitting for 25 years. now everytime i go to start it, it seems to take more and more kicks. i checked the points, didn't seem burned up. maybe i don't have the "sweet spot" down yet?

On mine it takes a full tickle eg petrol pissing out of the carbs to start from cold, it could be you need to ticle more. If not I would be looking at new points, ignition condensers, plugs and HT leads. The coils are also prone to be being pinched by the clamps and developing a short, before that they can give a weak spark for a time until total failure.

when i pull the throttle and it snaps back, the idle kicks up, hunts around, then drops to where it should be.

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First check that the cables are routed with no sharp bend, then lube them with a pressure fitting and aerosol cable lube. Since you had the carbs apart to clean them, I will assume the slides are in reasonable condition. I like to coat the slides with lubriplate or dri-slide to help, but it's not absolutely necessary.
Make sure the cables are properly adjusted so they start to open equally. The drill bit trick works well. Use a carb stick or TwinMax or similar to set the idle and low speed air jet.
Lastly, I would pull the points plate and auto advance mechanism. If you want to run points, then clean and lube the auto advance mechanism so it returns easily to the retarded position when advanced by hand. This may require new advance springs. If the bike has been sitting 22 years, then I would not be surprised if the AA is rusted up. An electronic ignition is nearly the price of a new AA :wink: which if it were mine would go in immediately. (flame suit on)

-first, neutral, and second are a little hard to get to.

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I would start by pulling the outer gearbox cover and check the springs on the shifter mechanism. They often rust and get weak, not allowing the ratchet to catch the pawl. Also you can try adjusting the clutch at the spring. While the manual suggests turning the screw in until it touches and backing out a half turn, I have found that a quarter turn is sufficient and gives slightly more lift.

lastly, it seems to be a hard starter

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It could be oil on the points from the timing cover seal. The seal is likely to be hard with age. Also check the voltage at the ballast resistor at the coils. If you are seeing low voltage, and you are sure the battery is good, I would look for poor connections, especially at the kill button. Clean connection and use dielectric grease. Again, an electronic ignition will help immensely with making it a one-kick wonder :lol:

Nice
just another 8-10 thousand bucks chucked into it and you have it running sweet! :lol:

just kidding - nice pickup - we look forward to hearing about it's progression
m

mikegray660 said:

Nice
just another 8-10 thousand bucks chucked into it and you have it running sweet! :lol:

just kidding - nice pickup - we look forward to hearing about it's progression
m

Click to expand...

thanks,
i read here in another post the purchase price is just the 'down payment'. i'm down with it so far.

iusedtolikehondas said:

... i sold all of my vintage honda and suzuki projects to get it...

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I hope there weren't too many old Hondas and Suzukis, those things are worth a fair amount on thier own.

There have been a good few Nortons in very similar condition showing up as new projects on the various Britbike forums lately. I have seen the trend in the last 2 years switching from Triumphs to Nortons & BSAs, probably because of the relative affordability in the buy-in stage.

As far as budgeting, Norton parts seem to be pricier, bit-for-bit, than Triumph and BSA; no matter, they are what they are.

Sounds like you found a decent donor in that you were able to get it running with the minimum of effort. Hope your project goes well!