fram filters

The Fram filter uses cardboard end plates that are glued [sometimes] to the element. I have cut them apart and found the element was just laying in the bottom of the housing doing no good. I have also seen them glued on crooked leaving a gap for the oil to bypass the element.
Here is a link that shows a comparison. Jim

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1662838

Thank you, out with the hacksaw tomorrow

comnoz said:

The Fram filter uses cardboard end plates that are glued [sometimes] to the element. I have cut them apart and found the element was just laying in the bottom of the housing doing no good. I have also seen them glued on crooked leaving a gap for the oil to bypass the element.
Here is a link that shows a comparison. Jim

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Not that Fram filters aren't all junk, but I got over 400,000 miles out of a 2.8L Chevy V6 using Fram filters and Valvoline 10-40. The only problem I had was bad head gaskets... Maybe changing the oil regularly is the important step.

Greg

steveyacht said:

openroad said:

steveyacht said:

Edit postReport this postReply with quoteRe: oil filter
by steveyacht » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:00 pm

I just purchased 4 NAPA 1352 oil filters. They were all Blue MANN filters. They sell them to commercial dealers at approx $8.50 each, that means a retail over the counter cost of about $10.95, in most stores. Ask your Local NAPA to order you some, with out any time constraints (no special freight that way). Hope this helps

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Like this one from Carquest?

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That is exactly the same, box and all with a NAPA lable being the only difference

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I just bought a case (12) of 1352 Wix filters from fleetfilters (http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/merc...ode=fleetfilter&Product_Code=51352&ShowShip=1). The individual boxes all say NAPA and 51352, but about half are blue Mann filters and half are white Wix filters. Go figure.

Be aware that the WIX 51352 is a 27 micron filter and the WIX 51032 is a 10 micron filter. Both will fit. You can look that up on their web site. Which would you use?

Dave
69S

I use WIX 51348 with an adaptor

WIX 51348 is a 21 micron.

Dave
69S

The use of an oil filter may not have much effect on the presence of sludge. Sludge is made up of carbon particles. The particles are so small that they go right through any oil filter. The particles normally repel each other with the detergent added to oil so they stay in suspension. Water will cause the carbon to fall out of suspension and form sludge. Whether you have sludge may be more a matter of getting the oil up to temp to help blow off most of the water, and less to do with if you use a filter. Changing the oil frequently probably trumps everything.

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Hehe, I don't know that much on oil but do know the major component of sludge and it ain't the carbon crap, that only acts as binder to the balk of the metal dust = halfway towards ceramic plaster. I've washed the sludge with wd40 or brake cleaner etc to wash away the black element to leave a gray grainy clay like sediment then pasted a super magnet all round in it to pick out the ferric element, which then left bronze golden and Al silvery dust. I don't know if this sludge dust is significant friction size particles or not, but as you say they don't get effectively filtered by regular off shelf filters.

As too oil warm up cycles when I leave home its at least 20 miles, mostly hwy before I shut down. Should be plenty enough to cook off most moisture.

I want to believe in filters again and run them, just not sure how much is wishful thinking vs effective protection. Nothing beats changing the oil before its time as seems to be standard routine anyway.

I guess I never showed this picture of my sump trap after 13,175 miles with no filter. Probably lots of oil changes, but I can't remember.



Dave
69S

Effective protection? I have to think it helps a lot. Not to say an ultra-fine bypass type filter couldn't be better.

What I do know is I have taken a lot of filters apart and inspected what was in them. I am glad the crap that I see in the filters was in the filter instead of running around in the motor. Jim

I cut open filters too - not by hack saw but grind lip thin then chisel open so not to contaminate metal to confuse. I see flakes of sealer, chips of metal and particles of gasket, stuff i would not want to clog pump or passages, but according to references these are not the friction significant particles circulating through most filters.

Dogt's sludge trap looks about half of what I found in 40K unfiltered Combat and half more than found in hard run 7000 mile filtered Combat.

NOTE: I believe in filters and went to expensive pains to make one tuck in Peel in space above swing arm yet below isolastic mount. I just don't believe its as effective as we might believe. Double note is that new oil can use extra filtering right out the jug, ugh.

So what bypass 'fine' filter would ya use and how would it plumb in?

I haven't researched what is available for a filter that is small enough to put on a bike but I often though about plumbing a fine filter into the overhead oil line. Since my oil pressure gauge line comes from the overhead line I would know when the filter was getting plugged by the oil pressure. Jim

comnoz said:

Effective protection? I have to think it helps a lot. Not to say an ultra-fine bypass type filter couldn't be better.

What I do know is I have taken a lot of filters apart and inspected what was in them. I am glad the crap that I see in the filters was in the filter instead of running around in the motor. Jim

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Exactly!!!

Exactly > nothing that applies to engine protection beyond what a nice screen could do, keepping big enough stuff out of tight oil ways, but nothing much as concerned the friction-wear causing "Clearance Particle Sizes". I've washed the sludge desposits with organic solvents to find essentially same amount still there but now light grayish not dark, then a super magnetic to suck out the ferric alloys to leave about 1/2 still there which was ~1/4th golden colored the rest obviously Al dust.

I now think the best protection, besides freq. oil changes is the centrifuge of crank trap and settling time in oil tank. But heck who'd take up my hobot point of view as its so emotionally against comfortable logic assumptions.

Here's some more on filters to accommodate to ones concepts around. Much of the wear particles are not sand like but splinter like.
http://www.lenntech.com/library/fine/ab ... ilters.htm

Here's one of my oil issues resource, a world wide forum of ugh, oil threads!
I plucked on 'bypass' subject line out of the many 1000's to start ya off. I suspect the head feed would be best place to fine filter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ost2322906

http://gulfcoastfilters.com/Why%20ByPass%20filters.htm