fram filters
- Thread starter biggeoff
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Edit postReport this postReply with quoteRe: oil filter
by steveyacht » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:00 pm
I just purchased 4 NAPA 1352 oil filters. They were all Blue MANN filters. They sell them to commercial dealers at approx $8.50 each, that means a retail over the counter cost of about $10.95, in most stores. Ask your Local NAPA to order you some, with out any time constraints (no special freight that way). Hope this helps
by steveyacht » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:00 pm
I just purchased 4 NAPA 1352 oil filters. They were all Blue MANN filters. They sell them to commercial dealers at approx $8.50 each, that means a retail over the counter cost of about $10.95, in most stores. Ask your Local NAPA to order you some, with out any time constraints (no special freight that way). Hope this helps
I've been using fram 3614 filter and UNI guzzi filters on my norton's since the 70's. My dealer had a hard time getting Crossland's back in the day and gave me a guzzi filter instead. And since I have a couple of guzzi's, it makes shopping a whole lot easier. Cross reference the fram 3614 for more selection if you wish. But keep in mind in order use a fram 3614 you first must have a threaded adapter to put on your adapter. 
Change your oil & filter often for long engine life...... :mrgreen:
Tim_S
Change your oil & filter often for long engine life...... :mrgreen:
Tim_S
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I now believe filters are mostly just feel good after thoughts on Nortons, though I like the feeling of having them on mine, I don't expect much protection over none.
Here's a decade long reviewing of various filter brand issues good and bad.
tag overview to get down to basics, but misses a bunch of brands, like Framm.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Here's another discussion among Honda riders, if ya can believe them later comers.
Its still eye opening to me w/o opening loads of filters. Framm gets thumbs down.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums ... hp?t=12206
Here's a decade long reviewing of various filter brand issues good and bad.
tag overview to get down to basics, but misses a bunch of brands, like Framm.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Here's another discussion among Honda riders, if ya can believe them later comers.
Its still eye opening to me w/o opening loads of filters. Framm gets thumbs down.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums ... hp?t=12206
Not really anything to do with filters for commandos but the Husaberg I have is the first one to come out with an oil pump and filter in it (97 and yes it is a 4st). The earlier models had a splash fed top end and needle roller big end, they are amazingly simple (think honda ct90 simple) for a bike that took on and beat the big two strokes in the open motocross class.... The addition of the oil pump and filter didnt make them any more reliable... back to Nortons
I have a question about the bypass on oilfilters and straight weight oil. There was a thread on Brit-Iron back in the day where someone suggested that using heavy straight weight could have the bypass open up, and that would cause the filter to dump whatever its been filtering back in circulation. I can at least see how it might be after staying overnight in the high country of Colorado and seeing how thick the 50wt got, looked pretty thin in the desert.
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At the vintage rally I love to see the old leather belt drives and the long tiny oil spit tube run along with exhaust as gentlemanly exit for the total loss systems that only needed a pump or two every dozen miles or so. No need to filter oil if it only goes around once.
For most my C'do life I was at least as anal as the majority of views I read, 5 minute first change, 100 mile 2nd, 500 3rd, 1000 4th and about 1000 miles there after with new filters, by far mostly using Mobile 1 synthetic, but after seeing almost as much sludge in crank at 7000 miles as after 40,000 on pre-non-filtered Peel, I don't think filters do much that matters to Nortons and a waste of effort to seek out the very best over just renewing once a year or so with any filter that's handy. In other words most the particles created are too small to filter and too small to matter to friction, while the particles that get filtered are too big to get into the friction spaces anyway, so essentially the filter is just keeping down the sludge build up off stagnate areas, like TS bottom and oil tank bottom and sludge trap, but not hardly enough to matter a whitworth. Next batch of sludge, spray with wd40, then stir a magnet over the sediment...
Unless you get a rather refined expensive specialty filter for 1 to 10 micron particles, ya might be interested in some of my unicorn horns to keep dragons out your garden.
Clearance Size Particles scale, green sized don't matter but the reds are bad juju.
More in here..
http://www.oilguard.com/whareclpacs.html
For most my C'do life I was at least as anal as the majority of views I read, 5 minute first change, 100 mile 2nd, 500 3rd, 1000 4th and about 1000 miles there after with new filters, by far mostly using Mobile 1 synthetic, but after seeing almost as much sludge in crank at 7000 miles as after 40,000 on pre-non-filtered Peel, I don't think filters do much that matters to Nortons and a waste of effort to seek out the very best over just renewing once a year or so with any filter that's handy. In other words most the particles created are too small to filter and too small to matter to friction, while the particles that get filtered are too big to get into the friction spaces anyway, so essentially the filter is just keeping down the sludge build up off stagnate areas, like TS bottom and oil tank bottom and sludge trap, but not hardly enough to matter a whitworth. Next batch of sludge, spray with wd40, then stir a magnet over the sediment...
Unless you get a rather refined expensive specialty filter for 1 to 10 micron particles, ya might be interested in some of my unicorn horns to keep dragons out your garden.
B.F.D. Buy False Defense?
Clearance Size Particles scale, green sized don't matter but the reds are bad juju.
More in here..
http://www.oilguard.com/whareclpacs.html
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Did I miss something?
Your norton experience is absolute opposite from mine.
Years ago I helped NENO member Jeff S (at NY rally) split his original MKIII (with filter) crank with 160,000 miles and it was so clean it was almost not worth splitting the crank. A swipe with a paper towel and we were done.
THEN how many other cranks, from bike with no filter, I have split with under 20K and were jam full of sludge and in serious need of cleaning.
I will continue to fully endorse full flow filters as installed on the return line of our nortons, and adding them to the models that were not installed originally such as my 1952 Model 7 and Atlas' and early commando.
FWIW a filter with internal bypass is not the same as "bypass filtration"
Your norton experience is absolute opposite from mine.
Years ago I helped NENO member Jeff S (at NY rally) split his original MKIII (with filter) crank with 160,000 miles and it was so clean it was almost not worth splitting the crank. A swipe with a paper towel and we were done.
THEN how many other cranks, from bike with no filter, I have split with under 20K and were jam full of sludge and in serious need of cleaning.
I will continue to fully endorse full flow filters as installed on the return line of our nortons, and adding them to the models that were not installed originally such as my 1952 Model 7 and Atlas' and early commando.
FWIW a filter with internal bypass is not the same as "bypass filtration"
openroad said:steveyacht said:
Like this one from Carquest?
funny, i just bought two of these german made, mann filters this week for my bike. when i ordered them, he told me they were wix but i was happy to see they were mann instead when i opened them up. i've had good experience with them in the past with vw and porsche.
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Ugh Dave, for over a decade I've read the reports of sludge'd cranks w/o filter later being found clean inside when filter used. Yet on anal oil care on Ms Peel I saw 1/16" sludge layer at 7000 miles and on Trixie that came with decades mounted filter about 1/8" layer and then some accumulation with new crank and filter at ~1000 miles then again at ~300 miles. Slotted pistons inside Al gasket got Trixie first time, then rod bolt the second time. I like filter idea but lost faith in them to do as much as advertised unless with a special fine filter that hardly no one installs. Ms Peel has the option to put in 10 micron filter element but now doubt it'd do much but add pumping losses to Peel. We read about those pleased with long term use of the bottom of the filter feeding brands Framm, which I take to mean even the poorest filter does as well as the best mass market filter, which implies to me filters are not that important to get concerned about in Norton engines. Magnets only catch the ferric elements, not Al-oxide-sapphire, brass, copper, carbon grit, who ratio's of production can be monitored in sludge samples, which I find about 1/3 is magnetic, 2/3's missed by filter ain't.
I'll ask Wes what he found on his seized by age 50k+mile crank trap before he installed a filter mount i gave him off Peel. I did not find much sludge in the several crank cheeks I got from rather used, likely -sans filtering era- stock piles from Baxter's or Waldridge or ebay.
So my reality check to rearrange my mind on this is - Are the Norton experts more informed or mis-lead than the fleet managers, tribology references and hobot?
I'll ask Wes what he found on his seized by age 50k+mile crank trap before he installed a filter mount i gave him off Peel. I did not find much sludge in the several crank cheeks I got from rather used, likely -sans filtering era- stock piles from Baxter's or Waldridge or ebay.
So my reality check to rearrange my mind on this is - Are the Norton experts more informed or mis-lead than the fleet managers, tribology references and hobot?
The use of an oil filter may not have much effect on the presence of sludge. Sludge is made up of carbon particles. The particles are so small that they go right through any oil filter. The particles normally repel each other with the detergent added to oil so they stay in suspension. Water will cause the carbon to fall out of suspension and form sludge. Whether you have sludge may be more a matter of getting the oil up to temp to help blow off most of the water, and less to do with if you use a filter. Changing the oil frequently probably trumps everything.
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openroad said:steveyacht said:
Like this one from Carquest?
That is exactly the same, box and all with a NAPA lable being the only difference
biggeoff wrote:
Just read on the net that fram filters are poor quality as the internal ends are made of cardbord also the non return valve fail has anyone else had problems. What oil filters do you fit
Napa Gold
Baldwin
I have cut the Fram apart, I wouldn't install it on anything I value. Jim
If I am going to cut one of the Used Frams apart, what should I be looking for? I have an old Crosland for comparison which was the original figment.
Just read on the net that fram filters are poor quality as the internal ends are made of cardbord also the non return valve fail has anyone else had problems. What oil filters do you fit
Napa Gold
Baldwin
I have cut the Fram apart, I wouldn't install it on anything I value. Jim
If I am going to cut one of the Used Frams apart, what should I be looking for? I have an old Crosland for comparison which was the original figment.
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