Fast idle for warm-up?

I want the bike to idle when fully warm at about 1000 (indicated), cause that's where it's not shaking itself to death and sounds good.
I'll have some tuning questions later, but for now, I want to know if the stock bike has any provision for setting a temporary fast idle, so I don't have to keep my hand on the throttle.
The choke doesn't really fulfill this function, and I'd like to be getting my jacket, helmet, gloves on, gate open, garage door closed, etc., while the motor warms up.
Any ideas?

Please correct me if I am wrong, but air cooled British twins don't need to be warmed up.
On the contrary, because by doing that, you are in effect running a cold engine with minimal of insufficient oil pressure. It is much better to kick start, give a few blips on the throttle and off you go on your way, without pushing too hard for a few kilometers.
I never had any problem doing that, but I know a few horror strories of friends doing what you suggest, including a destroyed brand new BMW engine...my friend's phone rang, he spoke for 10 min with his BMW at idle, 'warming up', and when he finished his conversation, the engine had partly seized...can't remember the extent of the damage, but it was significant.


(Yes, I know a BMW is not a British vertical twin, but same difference in this case).

Thanks, Jag, for the suggestion.
I have plenty of oil pressure during this time, as I always watch my gauge upon start-up. I know from experience that she will stall at the first stop sign, or even just shifting into first, if I don't let her warm up for a minute or so, at least. AS for sitting at idle for 10 minutes upon starting, I'm always in too much of a hurry to let that happen.
But there are probably stop lights near me that take almost that long, and my worry during such a wait is much more for the heat build-up, no air passing across the motor.
Sorry to hear about your pal's trouble, but I cannot imagine being very happy with a brand new BMW that could not idle for 10 minutes, either.

A buddy of mine fitted a Ducati throttle assembly to his Rocket 3 that incorporated a fast idle facility, it works well.
I don't know what Ducati it was from, but shouldn't take too much for you to find out (I'd ask Paul , but he's away in France on his R3).
sam

trident sam said:

A buddy of mine fitted a Ducati throttle assembly to his Rocket 3 that incorporated a fast idle facility, it works well.
I don't know what Ducati it was from, but shouldn't take too much for you to find out (I'd ask Paul , but he's away in France on his R3).
sam

Click to expand...

Its off the 916 Sam. I had the same on the Harrier.

Nevertheless, to the OP, I'd say no. The best way to treat these engines is to ride off immediately after start up IMHO.

If you still have the original throttle it has a friction adjuster underneath, I set mine so the throttle nearly just stays open and use this for kitting up by setting it for a quick idle and reaching for it every few secs as the revs slowly decay. Takes the strain off the right hand when cruising too. Setting off immediately is best but I like to check the oil return after a couple of mins as I have a non return valve in the feed line and this checks that its open and fresh oil is being returned not just the sump contents.

Here is an idea:

We all know that the worst thing for an engine is cold starts. Because of lack of oil in the barrels, oil pressure, expansion...

The middle path between warming without driving or driving without warming could be this. Start it, give a few blips, stop it.

Now you get your jacket, helmet, gloves on, gate open, garage door closed, etc...

Restart it and keep going slowly for the first miles.



The idea behind this is if cold starting is not that good, the very first seconds are the worst. BUT combustion happened in the engine and the heat produced is beginning it's job, thermal expansion and oil has been splashed a little everywhere. In a little way of course, but which could be helpful for the engine.

My wife helped me discover that because it's what she did every morning with our car, a 4 cyl. 1800cc DOHC, during 10 years, and even after 160'000miles oil level was staying at the top of the gauge between two oil changes and still had no blue smoke from the exhaust. I didn't take the compressions, but believe they were not that bad. For info, I used to change Mobil 1 oil and the oil filter every 9'300 miles.

Hope it would help you.

Just start the bike and ride off.

While it's too cold to idle, use the throttle to keep it running. If you find that difficult, then practise.

I start and run at a gentle idle until the sump is pumped out. I have the Jim Comstock breather on.
That takes only maybe 10 -15 seconds. Then another minute or so at 2k or under because upon leaving home
is a very steep uphill climb. Never wack it until I have ten miles on it. At least.
Pulling away with a cold engine that wants to quit isnt safe in any sort of town traffic.

http://throttlemeister.com/ check that link out,... maybe you'll like it and maybe you won't, but it's a possible solution.

or you could look at the kaoko version... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI_GACkYPZA

Use the one on the left in the link below to adjust idle.
http://www.thefactorymetalworks.com/col ... -screw-set

Were do you guys come up with some of this bullshit[

quote="Triton Thrasher"]Just start the bike and ride off.

While it's too cold to idle, use the throttle to keep it running. If you find that difficult, then practise.[/quote]

Fast Eddie said:

trident sam said:

sam

Click to expand...

Nevertheless, to the OP, I'd say no. The best way to treat these engines is to ride off immediately after start up IMHO.

Click to expand...

Jagbruno said:

Please correct me if I am wrong, but air cooled British twins don't need to be warmed up.
On the contrary, because by doing that, you are in effect running a cold engine with minimal of insufficient oil pressure. It is much better to kick start, give a few blips on the throttle and off you go on your way, without pushing too hard for a few kilometers.
I never had any problem doing that, but I know a few horror strories of friends doing what you suggest, including a destroyed brand new BMW engine...my friend's phone rang, he spoke for 10 min with his BMW at idle, 'warming up', and when he finished his conversation, the engine had partly seized...can't remember the extent of the damage, but it was significant.


quote]

Click to expand...

The only thing I warm up is the old Camaro. The Quadrajet likes to get a little heat in it before taking off.
The HD is injected, I give it a few seconds to build oil pressure and the same with the Norton. I am ready to take off when it starts. Run it long enough for oil pressure and I am out, but gently.
JMHO

Quite a difference of opinion here, and Thanks to all for yr consideration.
Onder is correct in my particular case, it's just not safe for me to ride off on a cold engine with only a kickstart. When it stalls in traffic, pulling to the curb is not fun.

I like NKN's "middle path" but for the circumstance that kicking it to life more than once is not so nice for me now. New barrels, pistons, top end mean great compression, and myself shy of 130 pounds wet, it's literally all I can do, to get her going at all. I can make her go on the first kick usually, following the std routine, thank goodness.

The Koako unit looks good (it should, for the price) but these are model specific. When I tell the selection committee that I have a 74 norton, it tells me to order one "For Aftermarket Aluminum Handlebars With Barkbusters". Can't even see what bar diameter it's made for...

I have ordered the pcs suggested by speirmoor as an experiment, plan to use just one of the idle screws, see if that works until I can make the stock throttle do the job as suggested below.

Kommando came closest to what I was looking for. Never paid much attention to that friction device underneath. However, I can't see myself pulling out the screwdriver and a wrench just to keep the idle high for 2 or 3 minutes. By the way, that locking nut is not 9mm, not even 11/32". It measures 0.340, and is moved with a 1/8 WW. So here's the new plan:
1) Find out the threadform for that little friction adjuster screw (Group 21 in the parts book lists 064600 as the throttle assy, shows the friction bolt and nut, but does not give them separate P/N's).
2) buy a suitable tap to make a finger-operated, knurled locking ring.
3) Get a longer version of the bolt that I can modify somehow to turn with the fingers.

Can anybody tell me what size is correct?

Mr. Rick said:

1) Find out the threadform for that little friction adjuster screw (Group 21 in the parts book lists 064600 as the throttle assy, shows the friction bolt and nut, but does not give them separate P/N's).

Can anybody tell me what size is correct?

Click to expand...

amal-twist-grip-screw-nut-t19380.html#p247118

http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html

Mr. Rick said:

Quite a difference of opinion here, and Thanks to all for yr consideration.
Onder is correct in my particular case, it's just not safe for me to ride off on a cold engine with only a kickstart. When it stalls in traffic, pulling to the curb is not fun.

Click to expand...

I gotta say, people are being quite civil with you. You're really hanging it out there.
But what the hell, let's test you sense of humor.

First, I think they just deleted a " how many ladies ride a Norton" thread. You could have been a contributor there.

I just reduced my gross bike weight by 40 pound in 4 months. One word "ketogenics" You may need to reverse this process if you going to attain any confidence in this whole Norton thing.

Another is "If you cannot handle a real Norton Commando, maybe you should think about getting a MK3." (My personal favorite.)

Seriously, get used to it. Maybe you are a prime candidate for a single Mikuni. Some have a be wheel at the end of the throttle stop adjuster. Just reach down and give it a half turn and after a little while, turn it back.

Maybe bring your idle up to 1200, it's better for the bike.


That's enough for now. Peace!

Mr. Rick said:

I'd like to be getting my jacket, helmet, gloves on, gate open, garage door closed, etc., while the motor warms up.
Any ideas?

Click to expand...

Rick,
I do the opposite: drop garage door, put on helmet, jacket, sun glasses, gloves then I open the gas tank main, tickle carbs, add choke valve, put one kick through, then turn key on and kick. It starts first time and I keep the RPM at 2500 for about 30 sec. This throws any oil that has wet sumped from the counter weight of the flywheel onto the cam where it is needed. Then I drive off. The choke is usually turn off just after my driveway. I run my bike in 2nd gear for about 3/4 mile at 2500 RPM until I get on the main road. I take it easy till I have about 5 miles on before I really start giving the bike the coal.
YMMV
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

I put a throttle locker/ poor man's cruise control on mine. It works perfectly to keep a high idle after cold startup for a half a minute here and there while I pull off gloves to press gate clicker etc.
And it also works well resting the hand/wrist when touring.
Cost was about 30$

Glen

http://www.gearscanada.com/motorcycle/e ... -lock.html

worntorn said:

I put a throttle locker/ poor man's cruise control on mine. It works perfectly to keep a high idle after cold startup for a half a minute here and there while I pull off gloves to press gate clicker etc.
And it also works well resting the hand/wrist when touring.
Cost was about 30$

Glen

http://www.gearscanada.com/motorcycle/e ... -lock.html

Click to expand...

worntorn,
I use the mk1 version of the one you linked to called a photon cruise. $16.95 at GP Bikes. but it does reduce speed slowly at RPM's below 3500 from vibration.
Cheers,
Thomas

Hi Thomas

The alloy version seems to hold a steady speed indefinitely. Guess they refined things a bit. The Thumbwheel adjuster on the Alloy unit is likely what makes the difference.

Glen