Reversed the Camplate - Now 1st and 2nd are sticking (after warm up)

Hi Gang,

I just finished a full (mostly cosmetic) restoration on my 72 Roadster - including Isolastics, wiring harness, belt drive primary, and REVERSING the CAMPLATE in the gearbox. Pics here:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmjWHX1W

Once assembled I had a problem with the gears not engaging fully but re-read the thread on OldBritts and realized that I hadn't shimmed the Kickstart shaft for clearance. Now it is at the correct .005 and shifts decently - I still have to hold the lever down sometimes while clutching out to get 1st to engage, and it has slipped out of 1st a couple times when if I'm not accelerating fully.

But also, once the bike has warmed up (about 15 - 20 minutes), 1st and 2nd gear are very hard to shift into and out of, even neutral takes a lot of leverage. I replaced the layshaft bearing with a roller bearing so I don't imagine that is part of the problem.

Anybody have experience with this kind of problem??? The gearbox was shifting fine before I reversed the camplate (I just kept upshifting when I was trying to slow down out of reflex from years of US style shift patterns).

Thanks for your help,
Darren

Check the adjustment of the primary chain or belt with the bike hot. Also the clutch adjustment an operation and play of the sleeve gear bushes once everything is up to temperature an the problem starts to show itself.
Do you still have the correct end float when this happens on the Kickstarter shaft? I believe mine is 8 or 10 thou just form memory. 5 maybe to close as things expand.
You may have to have several attempts at checking things as it will cool as you are doing so an you may then miss the problem if there is one there.
The oil you are using will also thin when warm an may affect things.

Hi Toppy, Thanks for the advice, I haven't broken into a gearbox before.

OldBritts sez: "I try to have around .005" to .010" end play. The end play will grow slightly when the gearbox heats up during riding, so the .005" is a good value to try to obtain." so I thought .005 would be cool, but I will recheck when hot. I also didn't get a chance to re-check belt tension. Thankfully, I can run with the cover off and it will be easier and faster to check. I'll do that this weekend.

I'm also running Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil SAE 75W90, is there any issue with that? And how would I "check operation and play of sleeve gear bushes" when hot?

Thanks again,
Darren

That's the same oil i use with no issues like yours so I would not think it would cause you the problem you describe.
Tension of the belt is much more likely.
Short of trying to take a hot clutch apart all you can do with sleeve gear is feel any play when cold by rocking clutch basket then again when hot to see if there is i noticeable difference.

Ha! Pulled the Primary Cover and found the belt was super tight (I guess that's why the drive chain had slackened - D'oh!). The bike was a full re-assembly and when I adjusted the Primary I thought I got enough torque on the top bolt of the gearbox but I guess I didn't. I can't get a socket or my box end spanner to squeeze past the lip of the inner cover on the gearbox, it's just millimeters too tight, so I'm thinking i should clearance a slight groove in the cover so that I can get the proper tool in to tighten that top bolt. I need to pull the covers anyways because I guess I didn't seal the gaskets properly and the case is weeping oil. I have a freelance work project this weekend so I don't know how soon I will get into this but I'm fairly confident the issue was with the Primary Tension. Thanks Toppy, I'll let you know when I have it back on the road.

Cheers!

My socket is also a tight fit but just manages to get on an off. If i were you i would get a thin wall socket or grind down the socket you have or one you purchase if you don't want to grind the one you already have. Good quality sockets and spanners are normally thinner than cheap ones as they are often made of better steel.

toppy said:

My socket is also a tight fit but just manages to get on an off. If i were you i would get a thin wall socket or grind down the socket you have or one you purchase if you don't want to grind the one you already have. Good quality sockets and spanners are normally thinner than cheap ones as they are often made of better steel.

Click to expand...

Hmmmm, good idea. THANKS!