Fast Idleing / Hunting

Kiwi961

Kiwi961

Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Messages
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Hi All,
I have just been for a spin after completing all the upgrades suggested by Richard and replaced the sensors with genuine Bosch. The bike runs great and although it stated from cold with an idle at 1400 it dropped back to 1200 once warmed up. When I stopped at the alights after about 20 minutes riding it was 'hunting' between 12 - 1800 revs. I turned it off and waited a bit and when I restarted it was idling nicely at 1200, but at the next set of lights it was hunting again.
Any thoughts anyone?

Cheers

Paul
 
Kiwi961 said:
Hi All,
I have just been for a spin after completing all the upgrades suggested by Richard and replaced the sensors with genuine Bosch. The bike runs great and although it stated from cold with an idle at 1400 it dropped back to 1200 once warmed up. When I stopped at the alights after about 20 minutes riding it was 'hunting' between 12 - 1800 revs. I turned it off and waited a bit and when I restarted it was idling nicely at 1200, but at the next set of lights it was hunting again.
Any thoughts anyone?

Cheers

Paul
Click to expand...

I would suggest its your idle screw. I have a manual on how to adjust it. Let me know how it works out.
 
Fast Idleing / Hunting
Hi Richard,
Yes I'd checked that, its actually backed right off from where it was. I'll try resetting it but it was doing it at the original setting where it was idling nicely before I added all the new bits, and still doing it with it backed right off.
Also check out the colour of the new plugs after about half an hours ride - black as...
 
Kiwi961 said:
View attachment 3036 Hi Richard,
Yes I'd checked that, its actually backed right off from where it was. I'll try resetting it but it was doing it at the original setting where it was idling nicely before I added all the new bits, and still doing it with it backed right off.
Also check out the colour of the new plugs after about half an hours ride - black as...
Click to expand...

Thats black alright.
Look around for a vacuum leak.

Make sure you add the set screw jam nut.

When its running, see if both exhausts are same temperature.

Sounds hard to believe but swap spark plugs and see if the black problem moves to the other cylinder. Maybe the spark plug or wires aren’t connected tight enough.
 
I rode a few days with the Bosch coil and the one07 wires and the bike was absolutely flawless. Added the Iridium plugs and she idles at 1600 after a 30 mile ride at about 70mph. Probably something else. Just find that a little odd. I was also thinking of screwing with the idle screw, but it idles at 1250 after a restart. I haven't pulled a plug yet. Other than that, riding has been great.
 
From 1st ride of my 2016 Sport MKII I had idle issues but only when the engine got very hot, after long riding. I would pull up to a stoplight/sign and it would always start cycle idling from around 1600rpm-2200 rpm, again this only occurred when the bikes engine was very hot. When engine was just started and/or only warm its idle was around 1100-1200 rpm & constant so normal.

BTW I changed all 3 sensors, installed racing plug wires & Iridium plugs, a new Bosch Coil, Transmission Vent, none of which made any difference in regards to the faulty idling.

Fast forward, the bike gets DE-Cat pipes & Long Open exhausts along with a new MAP. Since the first start after installation of the new MAP the bike is 100% normal now in its idling, be it cold, warm, or very hot.

So imo my factory MAP was in some way faulty and installation of a new one instantly corrected the idling issues, thank goodness. Was quite embarrassing pulling up to a stoplight on such a awesome bike while it cycled through its fast idling and it wasn't great for the bikes mechanics either.
 
I had once similar symptoms at my CR 961. The mechanic found something at the throttle sensor, I think, but I am not 100% sure if it was this... As it came back some time later I just adjusted the idling at a bit lower rpm. Not much but this helped, never happened again and this for some thousand miles now.
 
Both plugs are black / carboned up. So we're the ones I took out before upgrading everything. Wondering if it's a map issue, or just not breathing right?
 
Kiwi961 said:
Both plugs are black / carboned up. So we're the ones I took out before upgrading everything. Wondering if it's a map issue, or just not breathing right?
Click to expand...

Or your rings are lined up on both pistons. Its sort of a common issue for what you’re experiencing in all sorts of vehicles not Norton specific. Last resort you could pull the heads. I have a manual for that. You’ll need ONE07 gear and clutch JAM and gear puller and cam lock tool to do it.
 
Kiwi961 said:
Both plugs are black / carboned up. So we're the ones I took out before upgrading everything. Wondering if it's a map issue, or just not breathing right?
Click to expand...
As I was instructed, you should shut down the engine after a longer ride (hot engine) at riding rpm e.g. around 4000 rpm. Turn the key off before engine goes back to idling rpm. It is possible that in idling you have much richer mix than at riding rpm and you see the wrong face of the plugs... Just a guess.
 
Fixed it! I went right back through all the changes I had made and reversed them to check that I hadn't installed a faulty sensor or other part but no change. Then I took Pingu's advice and disconnected the O2 sensors and it fixed it immediately for the cost of 2 80 cent resistors. If you want to see how smooth your bike can be I recommend it. Very easy when cruising around town and pulls away from 2500 revs in top gear with no jitters.
So now the bike has had the following changes:
107 coil
107 leads
Irridium plugs (gapped at 30 thou)
Bosch sensors
Opened up air box (90mm inlet)
Dominator map.

It's running really well and has heaps of low down torque which makes it so much nicer to ride.
 
Kiwi961 said:
Fixed it! I went right back through all the changes I had made and reversed them to check that I hadn't installed a faulty sensor or other part but no change. Then I took Pingu's advice and disconnected the O2 sensors and it fixed it immediately for the cost of 2 80 cent resistors. If you want to see how smooth your bike can be I recommend it. Very easy when cruising around town and pulls away from 2500 revs in top gear with no jitters.
So now the bike has had the following changes:
107 coil
107 leads
Irridium plugs (gapped at 30 thou)
Bosch sensors
Opened up air box (90mm inlet)
Dominator map.

It's running really well and has heaps of low down torque which makes it so much nicer to ride.
Click to expand...


To be clear, you’re using resistors to bypass the o2’s??
 
Richard
Both my tiger 1050 and Norton have oxygen sensors disabled and 330 ohm resistors installed.
This stops the check engine light comming on and smooths out the fueling around town at lower revs.
You can buy a fancy $30 plug to install or a 30 cent resistor from jacar .
Cheers
Paul
 
pingu-nz said:
Richard
Both my tiger 1050 and Norton have oxygen sensors disabled and 330 ohm resistors installed.
This stops the check engine light comming on and smooths out the fueling around town at lower revs.
You can buy a fancy $30 plug to install or a 30 cent resistor from jacar .
Cheers
Paul
Click to expand...

Hello pingu-nz , Aren't you also running the Dyno Jet Power Commander ? I thought that the resistors replacing the o2 sensors were a normal step in power commander installation. ?
 
There was a forum member that had posted a link to the site that sells the resistor plug adapters. Could they post this again ?
 

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