- Dec 15, 2016
Well you have an SC ECU then I think. So the O2 sensor deletes will work OK. Just leave the O2 sensors screwed into the exhaust pipes when you try the resistor plugs , then you can switch back if you want to. Not real easy because you need to pull the gas tank , but not too bad about 60 mins total. I have been running without O2 sensors for a month now nearing 1000 miles so far and all is OK. I am getting ready for a longish ride soon and I have already plugged off the exhaust pipes. I think I had a bad O2 sensor in my right hand pipe. When I did the work at Coote's I noticed a lot more carbon deposits in that cylinder. So make a long story short I have purchased a new set of O2 sensors and I will not be installing them now. IF down the road I need too replace my SC ECU and I am told that This requires working O2 sensors then I will have them . I have been doing several shake down runs and MPG has been as low as 43.3 and as high as 46.5 US Gallons , at 70 to 75 mph. Unfortunately there is going to be a bunch of superslab (expressway) between here and the Moutain Road called the Dragons Tail . I will take 2 liters of gas along in case I run out. This is always a problem when you are running with bigger bikes (big gas tank bikes) FJR , BMW , Honda etc . I think I am good for 150 miles at 70 mph . I just did a 145 mile run a steady 70 to 75 mph and put in 3.28 US Gallons . Now if Raphi is right and I can get to 3.5 gallons....Thanks Tony good advise I think.
Mines a June 2014.
I’ll ride it some more before retrying the lambada delete.
But that god dam work is getting in the way at the moment.
Check that the throttle stop screw hasent wound itself in. The factory chose not to use a locknut only a dimple in the throttle body on the screw. Mine had slowly wound in and i spent weeks doing all the upgrades and finally as soon as i reset the screw its all fixed. At least have all the upgraded sensors coils leads etc done. CheersHi All,
I have just been for a spin after completing all the upgrades suggested by Richard and replaced the sensors with genuine Bosch. The bike runs great and although it stated from cold with an idle at 1400 it dropped back to 1200 once warmed up. When I stopped at the alights after about 20 minutes riding it was 'hunting' between 12 - 1800 revs. I turned it off and waited a bit and when I restarted it was idling nicely at 1200, but at the next set of lights it was hunting again.
Any thoughts anyone?
Richard,Ive tried ALL the maps. We notice the omex ECU Has a stronger output to the idle motor. BUT.... some of the newer bikes also have this issue. We feel its the IAM itself. Either not right for the job, gets dirty and makes it harder to move or gets hot and makes it harder to move. Hence why eliminating it made my life a lot better. No more key off key on after warm up. Trying to figure out its randomness of often working great then once in a while not working so great. I made a post about it. Im okay without the IAM but some may not be. Try eliminating it and see what you think. It takes all of about 5min and you can try it. If you don’t like it put it back the way it was. Disclaimer: Im suggesting this for those who understand how the sysyem works and know this would be fully against the manufacturers advice. So please don’t anyone yell at the factory and say Richard said to do this. They already hate me. But this IAM high idle is scary and unsafe. I hope Norton puts out a fix before someone gets hurt.