Dare I remove the kickstart?

Very true, Barnett lives in my belt case. It’s now an itch I’m definitely going to scratch.
 
I didn’t weld my cover up because:
A) I couldn’t be arsed
B) I certainly couldn’t be arsed polishing it
C) This is still totally reversible

Dare I remove the kickstart?
 
"And how will you free the clutch plates?"
Never had a problem with clutch plates sticking on my chain drive Commando but if I did, I'd put it in gear, pull clutch lever in, hold the front brake, engage starter. Same way you do it in a car when clutch plates stick.
 
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Landspeedracer said:
I find it difficult to put more than half my right foot onto the standard footrest when I’m riding, the Kickstarter swivel is right where I want my lower leg to be. Now I have a very strong CNW startle :)cool:)motor fitted I’m going to remove the kicker and prove my confidence with it gone. Please be the right thing to do.
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Hi,
I thought I was the only person in the world who found the kick start on my 850 to interfere with the calf of my leg.
I keep looking at it trying to work out why it has such an odd shape, bowed out as it is. Other bikes ( like my 160)’, the kick start pivots at the base near the spline and folds completely out of the way.

Years ago a mate had an Kawasaki ST 1000 (kind of a Z1000 with a shaft transmission). It was transitional in moving away from a kick start to purely electric but it did have a kick starter under the seat that could be fitted in an emergency.
Perhaps you could do similar.

Lastly, am I correct in thinking from this thread that Roadsters and Interstates had foot pegs in different locations?
al
 
Alan L said:
Lastly, am I correct in thinking from this thread that Roadsters and Interstates had foot pegs in different locations?
al
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No - they are in the same position - which, in my view, makes them wrong for the Interstate.
The pegs are under the rear of the tank on the roadster - but the Interstate tank is 4" longer, meaning and Insterstate rider's feet are an apparent 4" further forward compared to their torso.
My photo in post #9 shows my attempt to correct the situation,
 
robs ss said:
No - they are in the same position - which, in my view, makes them wrong for the Interstate.
The pegs are under the rear of the tank on the roadster - but the Interstate tank is 4" longer, meaning and Insterstate rider's feet are an apparent 4" further forward compared to their torso.
My photo in post #9 shows my attempt to correct the situation,
Click to expand...
But I sit at least 4" back on my roadster seat, nestling back into the step up for the pillion. Do you need to do the same on an interstate seat, or are your crown jewels against the tank?

I'll find out in July, as I have a used interstate tank and seat I'm going to try, as I'm determined to do a tour on my Commando next year.
 
once upon a time joe had a canoe joe got the canoe going with a paddle by and by joe got an electric trolling motor and put it on canoe he threw paddle away...one day joe was out on the river and electric trolling motor screwed up and left him stranded...joe looked up at sky and wished his paddle would fall from it and land on his haid so he could git going agin...alas and anon no sich luck....moral...keep paddle handy
 
Landspeedracer said:
I’ve just paid a visit to the garage and had a look at what difference a rotated lever would do. The rounded section will still interfere with my size 11s I think. Buggerit I have enough confidence in the CNW kit that I’ll remove it, and hope I don’t eat my words. If I’d known of a longer lever beforehand I may have never gone electric. Never look back is what they say.
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You can always bump it if something goes wrong.

Here is the difference between the MK3 style kicker and the RGM kicker. The issue with the RGM kicker I have found is use with rearsets it does not work so well, since the fold-out wont work with the loop over shifter levers and the knuckle protrudes back so there is toe interference with a 10.5 boot using the NYN rear set stock plates.

I dont know how that would work with stock footrests, as I havent used those in 30 years.

DP_20190816_165110_sm.jpg


NYN-RGM.jpg
 
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Fast Eddie said:
I didn’t weld my cover up because:
A) I couldn’t be arsed
B) I certainly couldn’t be arsed polishing it
C) This is still totally reversible
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Nigel - I cant remember, did you hack off your ks shaft, or get another from TTI?
 
After fitting the CNW components I have not touched the kicker once , not even to find T.D.C. or before it. It looks good but that's about it.
 
I'm with everyone who said go with the folding RGM lever.

I had the original stick me in the back of the calf for 40 years. Standard footpeg.

The RGM lever totally eliminates the problem for me.

I have a CNW starter fitted but just feel happier with a kick start as well.
 
Mart UK said:
But I sit at least 4" back on my roadster seat, nestling back into the step up for the pillion. Do you need to do the same on an interstate seat, or are your crown jewels against the tank?

I'll find out in July, as I have a used interstate tank and seat I'm going to try, as I'm determined to do a tour on my Commando next year.
Click to expand...

This is why I maintain that the riding position is the same on both Roadster and Interstate (as I/you sit further back on the Roadster seat) the position is effectively the same. I find two up riding on a Roadster not much fun as I'm shoved into the back of the tank.
 
I rode a Triumph 650 for years on public roads, which had no kick-start lever or electric start. I just used to bump-start it. I was young then, but even now I could still do it. In the old days, all road races were bump-start. I was never beaten off the start line until electric start came along and the guys used to push the button when they should have only been pushing the bike.
If I had an electric start Commando, I would remove the kick start, but learn how to bump start the bike for emergencies. When bump-starting a road bike, you usually look for a slight down-hill bit of road. Even angling down the camber is enough. It is pretty easy, the motor only has to go over one compression with your weight on the seat in first gear - Pull the bike back, then run and jump from the left side. Then put your left foot on the left footrest ahead of your right and step over, as you accelerate away.
 
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acotrel said:
I rode a Triumph 650 for years on public roads, which had no kick-start lever or electric start. I just used to bump-start it. I was young then, but even now I could still do it. In the old days, all road races were bump-start. I was never beaten off the start line until electric start came along and the guys used to push the button when they should have only been pushing the bike.
If I had an electric start Commando, I would remove the kick start, but learn how to bump start the bike for emergencies. When bump-starting a road bike, you usually look for a slight down-hill bit of road. Even angling down the camber is enough. It is pretty easy, the motor only has to go over one compression with your weight on the seat in first gear - Pull the bike back, then run and jump from the left side. Then put your left foot on the left footrest ahead of your right and step over, as you accelerate away.
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There's also the enjoyment of pushing it to the top of the hill first :)
 
acotrel said:
I rode a Triumph 650 for years on public roads, which had no kick-start lever or electric start. I just used to bump-start it. I was young then, but even now I could still do it. In the old days, all road races were bump-start. I was never beaten off the start line until electric start came along and the guys used to push the button when they should have only been pushing the bike.
If I had an electric start Commando, I would remove the kick start, but learn how to bump start the bike for emergencies. When bump-starting a road bike, you usually look for a slight down-hill bit of road. Even angling down the camber is enough. It is pretty easy, the motor only has to go over one compression with your weight on the seat in first gear - Pull the bike back, then run and jump from the left side. Then put your left foot on the left footrest ahead of your right and step over, as you accelerate away.
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Believe me, you are not going to bump start a fully laden rearset equipped Commando in the queue to get on a ferry, you'll wish you hadn't removed the kickstarter then.
 
I have a photo which was taken in about 1973. It was the first ever 'historic race' in Victoria. There were 5 bikes in it. In the photo I am one bike's length in front of the others and accelerating way sitting side-saddle while the others were all still pushing.
 
trident sam said:
Believe me, you are not going to bump start a fully laden rearset equipped Commando in the queue to get on a ferry, you'll wish you hadn't removed the kickstarter then.
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You would have to be unlucky to find yourself on a pier with a bike which would not start. You usually only have to run three steps.
 
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