How do I remove the throttle cable from a Mikuni carb?

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Hello everyone. I am trying to remove the old throttle, switches, master cyclinder ect. and I can't for the life of me, figure out how to remove the throttle cable from a Mikuni carb.

I am putting in a new throttle cable as well.

On the top of the carb, there seems to be a round threaded top cap. Do I unscrew that to remove the cable?

I'm stumped and don't want to force anything and wreck it so I thought I'd do the smart thing and ask first.

Thanks to all who reply.
 
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One word: Snip! :lol: Just grab a pair of cutters and cut the old cable right off. You're replacing it anyway, so why not? Then you can unscrew the top cap and see how the cable hooks into the slide without having to wrestle with the spring and needle. Of course, assembly will *not* be the reverse of disassembly :!:

Just my (unconventional) two cents!

Debby
 

L.A.B.

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Unscrew the carb cap and withdraw the slide from the carb, insert thin nosed pliers through the spring and grip the inner cable tightly immediately below the cap to hold the cable, push the slide up the cable until the nipple protrudes from the bottom of the slide, then move the nipple over to the other side of the double hole by moving the slide sideways, and it should then pass through and out of the slide.

Sometimes the nipple sticks in the hole slightly so just keep trying.
 
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L.A.B. said:
Unscrew the carb cap and withdraw the slide from the carb, insert thin nosed pliers through the spring and grip the inner cable tightly immediately below the cap to hold the cable, push the slide up the cable until the nipple protrudes from the bottom of the slide, then move the nipple over to the other side of the double hole by moving the slide sideways, and it should then pass through and out of the slide.

Sometimes the nipple sticks in the hole slightly so just keep trying.

Thanks. I figured it was a bit more involved than simply yanking it out.

I tried removing the top cap but it seems difficult so I was unsure if the cap was meant to be removed regularly or just for internal carb maintenance.

There wouldn't be lock tight (factory applied) on that cap would there? Or are they just a bit stubborn and should I use a rubber strap wrench?

My bike is in pieces right now. It is quite overwhelming but sadistically fun at the same time.
 
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LAB says it right - remove cap, depress inner spring on the slide and move the cable end over from the retaining groove
piece of cake - also nice to save the cable - usually a good flushing to remove grim and relube it, make a great emergency cable 4 the side cover incase of breakage at midnight on a lonely road (ask me how i know that)
mike667
 

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Coco said:
I tried removing the top cap but it seems difficult so I was unsure if the cap was meant to be removed regularly or just for internal carb maintenance.

There wouldn't be lock tight (factory applied) on that cap would there? Or are they just a bit stubborn and should I use a rubber strap wrench?

There should be a rubber seal under the cap which will initially make it reluctant to turn, but once you get it moving it should unscrew easily.

To fit the new cable to the slide you will need to compress and hold the spring fairly tightly so that the the new cable nipple can be inserted through the slide and then set in position in the retaining slot. There should also be a needle retaining plate between the spring and the slide which makes fitting the cable a bit awkward.

Take care not to cross-thread the cap when you refit the cap and slide assembly to the carb body.
 
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Coco said:
My bike is in pieces right now. It is quite overwhelming but sadistically fun at the same time.

you are becoming a true nortonite - pretty soom you will be assembling your primary (or insert other task...) by flashlight - and loving it!
 
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Assemble a primary drive by flashlight! How does that work? I normally use one of those clutch compressing tools. I did however once do a valve job with a knife and fork.
 
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dave M said:
Assemble a primary drive by flashlight! How does that work? I normally use one of those clutch compressing tools. I did however once do a valve job with a knife and fork.

being in hong kong shouldn't it been by chop-sticks?
 
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mikegray660 said:
Coco said:
My bike is in pieces right now. It is quite overwhelming but sadistically fun at the same time.

you are becoming a true nortonite - pretty soom you will be assembling your primary (or insert other task...) by flashlight - and loving it!

No kidding. I've had a real baptism by fire with the old MKIII.

I was hoping simply to get a turn-key bike but we all know how that goes. :?

I'm ass-deep in a pile of old parts and boxes full of new ones.

The only real trouble I'm having is dealing with wiring in that Sparx igntion and 3-phase alternator, but there is a local Norton guy back in town in a few weeks and he'll help me deal with it.
 
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Mike, You are quite right that chopsticks are the prefered method for Norton repair here in the East. A very useful tool for ascertaining TDC as well as checking the oil tank level when the dipstick is missing. Additionally egg fried rice makes a better oil leak absorber than it does a meal.
As an aside there are many Yamaha SRs and Honda retro-bikes running around here with Norton decals on the tank. I am thinking of putting a couple of Honda stickers on my Commando cafe racer by way of revenge!

On a serious note Coco, I can highly recommend Clymer's book 'Vintage British Street bikes' as a good resource for consultation while doing any work on your commando.
 
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