Commando Cafe Racer Rebuild

PM me with your address if you need the boyer.

graeme.

(1) There are automatic and manual oil temp switching valves available at modest cost ...

(2) Behind the front wheel is more or less a dead air space aerodynamically speaking ... my Dunstall had a
very similar cooler installed beside the engine in front of the shifter. Never recorded the actual return
oil temp I'm sorry to say.

(3) I'd really like to see the actual figures for the return oil temperature for a Commando in late July that is really being
pushed over a hilly, twisty bit of pavement ... amperient air temperatures here in the Maritimes often exceed 90 F
with high humidity. As they do in both southern Manitoba and Alberta. I'm guessing you'll find the oil temperature
edging past 250 F . Good reason to run actual experiments and move to full synthetic and or oil cooler.

(4) Dry sumps are used on many aircraft and racing reciprocating engines to provide more oil volume
and a longer time interval for the oil to cool - nice way to avoid use of oil coolers and external plumbing.
Air flow and leak problems. Air cooled engines always run hot ...

(5) I like the look of a properly installed oil cooler ...

Thanks Brit.

1. I'll consider that, but just trying to re-use the bits that came with it
2. I'm not surprised at all, not only is it dead, it showers up crap from dust via insects to rocks.
3. Can get pretty warm over here in Aus in high summer, but then it's not a lot of fun riding at those times with all the safety gear on.
4. I can image. The tank exposes a fair bit of oil to the ambient air for cooling.
Like I said, it's really just a brag, but interesting points.

In the meantime I've given up on the points as a bad joke, but not wanting to try and resurrect the Rita. Graeme (GRM450) has been extremely generous in offering me his old Boyer which I'll put in over the weekend (as long as The Opposition doesn't have other plans for me).

Again, thanks to all for advice and support, I'd still be sitting around getting nowhere if it wasn't for this forum. Graeme put it eloquently and succinctly:
motorcyclists
Really says it all doesn't it.

Woo-hoo! Boyer received. Much thanks Graeme. Looks like it's going to be a late night.

Don't tell anyone, (hey I'll just announce it on the internet instead) I just rode around the block! Far friggin out! Was up all last night fitting Graeme's (GRM 450) Boyer and today - well what can I say. What a difference. The Michi Battlaxes make it feel like a new bike, such a difference to those old horrors. Not really chuffed with the seating position though.
Were a couple of problems, muggins installed the alternator rotor around the wrong way when rebuilding the clutch so couldn't time it, had to pull it all down and turn it around - that tries your patience at 12:30 in the morning! No timing light, so have only done static timing and it kicks like a mule, but it is running so much better. Points?!?!? Why did I bother persisting with them? Aaaargh. So much wasted time and effort there. Never mind, all behind me now.
Man I am over the moon.
Got to get a strobe and get that timing sorted. Woo hoo!
Big, make that massive, thanks to Graeme.

Yahoooo !
congrat's

Yep, electronic ignition (even the simplest) are FAR better than points. Only real detraction is the battery voltage must be close to full or you'll have real headaches.

Good on ya sport!

Fighting off an attack of the blues following a 1,050 k three-day ride last weekend on the ever-lovin TRX, I really needed some two-wheeled therapy so I put in a good weekend's work to wind up a lot of outstanding issues.
New speedo gearbox fitted. Wonder if the speedo works though.

Exhaust mount brackets tidied up and painted:

Final fitting of the fairing screen. Some of that closed-cell soft adhesive-backed foam used here for a smooth no-shake fit.

Old mirror fitted and a new brake lever was necessary to make the front brake switch work.

Just had to buy a matching clutch lever too.

The wiring inside the fairing and one of the Fiamm horns. Lot of work here.

Not a full polish on the side covers, but enough to give it a bit of a lift. This side is easy:

Here's a couple of hours work moving up through three grades of wet-and-dry and finally scourer and elbow grease. Replaced the big seal too:

Finally found the hole for the side-stand return spring. You've got no idea. Was convinced it was on the other side, but thought I had the wrong spring. Idiot.

I found the old rego plate a couple of weeks ago and put it on just to see how it all looked:

Hmm, just think I'll go up the drive to see if the speedo works. Nah, bugger it, I'll put my gear on and go just up and down the street a couple of metres. You wouldn't believe it, I got lost in my own street and ended up over at a mate's place a kilometre away. How did that happen?
Gearshift needs adjustment though and got to get used to the reversed pattern and wrong foot. One pot's a bit out, there's a slight temp difference in the two exhaust tips and you can hear it going blat, blat, blat - steady on one side, blat, blat... blat, blat... on the other at idle.
Close though. Pretty damn close.
Oh and yes. The speedo does now work. MPH though. It's been a long time since we went metric ...

The registration process begins.

Like I said I figure I'm pretty well there - ready to start getting the registration. RWC then off to the pits.
I'd left a query with VicRoads on what is required in the way of proof of ownership and so forth.
They sent me a blanket response directing me to the FAQ on their website. I'd already trawled this and it has no information of use to me.
So this morning it's time to get on the blower. It went something like this:

12 minutes of hold time passes.
(Did you know that 50% of all Car/Bike accidents are caused by the driver failing to see the rider.)
I finally get to talk to something that purports to be be a human.
"Hello this is Meg."
"Hi Meg, I want to get a motorcycle re-registered, what do I need in the way of proof of ownership? Is a Statutory Declaration sufficient?"
"Well, it's up to the examiner on the day as to whether he accepts a stat dec or not."
"What??? You're kidding me. It's up to whatever mood or frame of mind he's in as to whether a stat dec is acceptable or not?"
"Where are you going for the testing sir?"
"I don't know, I live in Nunawading - where's the nearest registration branch?"
"Burwood East. You will need to make a booking and have an RWC."
"Let me see if I've got this right. I've got to get the RWC, stat dec, pay for a booking, get time off work, turn up and then quite possibly get turned away because the examiner's in a foul mood? You've got to be kidding me? Is there a manager I can speak to please."
"That is right, it is at his discretion."
"That is unacceptable. Let me speak to your manager."
"Why do you want to do that sir?"
"It's either got to be policy to accept a stat dec or not. One way or another. It can't be up to the examiner on the day's mood. Please put me through to your manager."
"Putting you one hold..."
Another 3 minutes pass.
"I've just called the Burwood branch and they will accept a stat dec."
"Thankyou. Now I have another query. I've been told once that I need to meet ADRs and once that I don't for a 1970 vehicle."
"I cannot answer your question sir. You will need to talk to VicRoads. I will transfer you now."

2 minutes pass.
"Hi I'm Kerrie. How can I help?"
"Hi Kerrie, I've just finished rebuilding a 1970 Norton and want some assistance in making sure the re-registration process goes smoothly."
"Sure."
"Can you tell me whether it has to meet ADRs or not? I've rebuilt the exhaust with all standard parts, but it seems pretty loud to me."
"No, you don't have to meet ADRs, but you still have to meet the 94dBA noise level test."
"Oh, is that a drive-by or stationary idle test?"
"Stationary, I suggest you find a certified test house, there are many exhaust repair / replace firms that are certified to test your vehicle."
"Ok, thanks."
"No problem, anything else I can help you with?"
"Oh, I'm not sure if you can help, they say it's up to the examiner on the day whether they'll accept a stat dec as proof of ownership or not."
"No, that's not exactly right. Do you have the previous registration?"
"Well there was a plate that came in the box of bits it's XX.YYY."
"Yep I have that one on record. 1970 Norton..."
"...Commando." We both say at the same time. "Yep, that's the one."
"The name of the previous owner?"
"Yeah sure, it's Xxxxxx Yyyyyyyy."
"Yep that's what I've got listed here. The examiner must be satisfied that you are the owner. As it's not been listed as stolen 15 years ago, just a signed note from the previous owner should suffice."
"Ah I see."
"Yes, best of luck, my partner rides a Harley and he's forever getting fined for noise and having to put the old pipes on then swaps them again 2 weeks later."
"Ha ha. Thanks for all your help Kerrie. Cheers"
"Best of luck. Cheers."

Damn. If not for her appalling taste in bikes I would have chatted her up. Oops. Don't tell Ms D.

Compared to dealing with the first idiot consultant the second was so good - knowledgeable, courteous and professional. Why can't they all be like that? Does it really take that much effort to be professional at what you're paid to do?

Well I've found a place that will measure the exhaust sound level over in Box Hill and then all I need is a RWC. Hmm... maybe the 'zorst place can do that too...

Lordy!

In the UK, if you've got the number you're all set - provided the bike has been on the road/registration updated since (I think) 1981, when the log books went computerised.

Noise test is examiner's discretion, although one place said my Duke was unacceptably loud. I did point out it was an un-tampered original fitment :roll:
They haven't started using Db meters here...yet.

No such luck here B+, it's the pits.

Got home after riding to work on the TRX and decided to jump straight on the Norton and sneak around the block a bit whilst I still had all my gear on. Starts on first kick now almost every time (Big thanks Graeme). Getting used to the gearchange. Need to bed the front pads in a bit after dismantling the calipers and cleaning them of what looked like a buildup of grease! I kid you not. I then 'deglazed' them a bit with coarse paper and re-installed. Bike certainly has a bit of mumbo. And compression. If you don't get the blip right shifting down to first it locks the rear wheel. Easy to do when you're used to changing with the other foot. Ended up riding around for nearly 15 minutes. Gets better every time. Very addictive.

Finally managed to track down the last owner and he's going to give me proof of ownership documentation. Told me a few things about the bike while we yacked away on the 'phone (for over an hour!) Bike has a hot cam, but he didn't remember its provenance which is a pity. I'd sent him a pic and he was very happy with what I'd done with it which is kinda nice.

Got around to having a look at the suspension, drained the front forks and refilled. RHS fork has a bit of stiction. Don't know if that will improve with use or something not right. Worked both up and down quite a few times while the oil and springs were out. Improved a bit.

Pulled one of the rear shocks off to have a look and see what sort of condition the dampers were in and it's fine. Had been a bit concerned because the rear is rock hard over bumps. Made up a spring compressor doofangus and dismantled it so I could clean it and read the guff on the body. They are Koni 76F-1373 which are the right ones for the bike according to the Ikon guide. I notice there's an arrow on the body with the words "heavy turn" next to it. Ah. So they're adjustable. Must have been set on max damping, could barely move it myself when in the bench vice with a BIG screwdriver through the top eyelet until I turned it in the opposite direction a bit. Great - he must have been a masochist.

So how the heck do you set these up then? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Oh, and the best wishes of the season to all. May your stockings be filled with all those much-desired, hard-to-get parts.

Finally found the hole for the side-stand return spring. You've got no idea. Was convinced it was on the other side, but thought I had the wrong spring. Idiot.

Click to expand...

Wrong hole! In fact that hole shouldn't be there The sidestand spring goes from the stand to the bracing across the frame at the front which appears to be missing on your frame?? Or am I going mad? :evil:

Looking good though!

When you sit on the bike the front end and the rear end need to sink down from your weight. If you get the front end set up to not beat you to distraction then it is often found the that the rear by comparison gets a bit buck board like. Never the less the pre-load of the rear springs should be set strong enough too keep the tire from rubbing the rear fender when hitting a good bump at say 70 MPH.

Wrong hole! In fact that hole shouldn't be there The sidestand spring goes from the stand to the bracing across the frame at the front which appears to be missing on your frame?? Or am I going mad?

Click to expand...

Gino, that's a pre-71 frame with what appears to be a '71 sidestand welded on. You can see the early style center stand lugs in the picture. Dave it's no wonder you had trouble finding where the spring went! The spring looks like it came from a screen door. But what the heck it works and is pretty much out of sight and that's all that counts.

Dave, have you tried this:

Loosen ALL hardware associated with the forks (yokes), fender, and axle.

Work the suspension several times while holding the front brake.

Start tightening the hardware, working from BOTTOM to TOP, working the suspension between stages.

When you get to the top, the forks should be as free as they will get.

If there is still any stiction, you need to pull them apart and check which bushing is offending.

Gino, that's a pre-71 frame with what appears to be a '71 sidestand welded on. You can see the early style center stand lugs in the picture. Dave it's no wonder you had trouble finding where the spring went! The spring looks like it came from a screen door. But what the heck it works and is pretty much out of sight and that's all that counts.

Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that one up Ron, Confused of Perth (Scotland) :lol: :lol:

Yep, further chat with the previous owner and I find that he bought the side stand from a wrecker and fitted it. I've done my best to tidy it up by building up weld at the stop and then grinding it back. He had a great big nut just welded on there - it was truly hideous. The spring is just a generic from my local hardware, inside a bit of tube so it doesn't rattle. Not pretty but it works. (A lot better than it was though!)

I will go through the process you outline Paul and see if that helps, but I fear there's something wrong with the RHS fork internals. Where I'm going to get ancient Seeley forks rebuilt in this country is anyone's guess. Will probably end up with more modern internals. That mightn't be so bad I guess.

Was happy with the rear shock I removed, cleaned and repainted, so I set it to about middle of the range (as far as I could guess) damping, reassembled it and refitted it. The other (chain) side not so good. Bottom eyelet rubber partly perished - probably from years of chain lube exposure. There's something wrong internally too, the 'bound' has no resistance over the bottom 2 cm and then it will not return all the way. Have a couple of days off and there's no repair shops open until early Jan so I will make up a tool to dismantle the shock and see if there's anything I can do to repair it.

Can't pull the damaged shock apart, so it looks like a specialist's job. Dang. That's as far as I go this break.

But, talking about frame types, dug out the old frame plate and it's dated (J)UNE 1970 and number 140716, the digits 1970 and 140716 being hand stamped, the word JUNE formed with a single stamp it would seem, the date is upside down. Can't read much of the printing on the plate, it's all been scratched off. The old crankcases are stamped 20M3S/140716, so there's a match. Must get some number stamps and prep the new plate. (New case is stamped 210479 which is about 1972.)

So it can't have been an S type, last one was 135088. But is still has the cross-frame style oil tank. I'm confused, thought they were only on S types?

Answers on a postcard...

Dave I have a 1970 Roadster Vin. 20M3S/140205 with the old style oil tank across the frame.
Ian