Chains

Google is a wonderful thing.

http://www.motorcycle.com/products/all- ... -3524.html

Bill G

I remember the time when you could by a can with grease from Castrol designed to boil a chain in it But in these days, what make of grease should one use to boil his chain in it?
Fritz

I like the idea of no maintenance and go for it wherever possible. We now have no maintenance cables (Venhil Featherlight with teflon liner) which some people still insist on oiling. In the case of the cables the manufacturer actually says "do not oil"
With chains though, we are not at the no maintnenance point yet. Sealed chains have probably quadrupled the average chain life and only require minor maintenance, just a quick spray with dry lube after a hard day of riding and adjustment only after very long intervals. The lube is needed to help the rollers and sprockets last as long as the wonderfully sealed and lubed part of the chain. No need to boil them in grease anymore!
Do this and you set up will likely go for longer than you will need it!

From Tsubaki-

LUBRICATING SEALED CHAINSTSUBAKI Sealed chains are pre-lubricated at the factory with special grease. However, external (Rollers, inner- and outside plates) need re-lubrication every 500Km. (300 miles) or sooner, depending on usage and conditions, will help keep the chain clean, corrosion free and ensure maximum performance. Use O-ring safe lubricant. 

bad_friday said:

I remember the time when you could by a can with grease from Castrol designed to boil a chain in it But in these days, what make of grease should one use to boil his chain in it?
Fritz

Click to expand...

Fritz - if you have a non O ring chain, there is no need to boil it in a can of grease - unless you really want to! Here you are: http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/putoline-chain-wax

I used to boil the damn chain regularly back in the 70s, and it was very, very tedious. It probably is a better way to do it, but I didn't notice having to replace chains any more frequently when I changed to chain spray.

Dave

I remember the time when you could by a can with grease from Castrol designed to boil a chain in it But in these days, what make of grease should one use to boil his chain in it?
Fritz

Click to expand...

Fritz, probably get the grease from the same company that specializes in the wax for our spokes......

bad_friday said:

I remember the time when you could by a can with grease from Castrol designed to boil a chain in it But in these days, what make of grease should one use to boil his chain in it?
Fritz

Click to expand...

I thought it was Duckhams but it was a while ago

#

Only from experience and not gospel.
There is movement at the side plate when it goes round the sprockets.
The chain lube now on O/X ring chains is lubing the rings also to some degree,they can deteriorate when dry and you will start to spit the O-Rings out.
Most chain lubes tack dry,one reason to apply them after each ride on the inside run when the chain is still warm (ish) so it tacks off ready for the next ride (A good time to check the tension also)
I have seen people apply chain lube to the outside run before a ride then wonder why most of it ends up on the wheel where it tacks off eventually. :lol:

I use Sikolene Titanium chain lube on everything, including 3 enduro bikes. Lubes well and tends to repel dirt. 6000 hard miles on the Commando and chain is in good condition.

Andy
What advice would you give for buying a Chain Breaker and Riveting Tool? I have other bikes and wonder will one tool do all?

best thing for chain lubrication is a twin injector on a scottoiler. keeps the chain lubed with clean oil, rain or shine. no grinding paste accumulation due to airborn grit which i've been told dose not exist - so why do engines need air filters. :?:

If you are breaking chain have the right breaker for the chain.

With O ring etc it is better to grind off the rivet head and use a conventional
breaker (usually refered to as the Renold type, but whale make one too), It is
important to make sure there is a lip for the O ring to seat round as breaking the chain can
pull the plate up a bit. Just tap the plate back with a fetching up punch. As for rivetting the
chain pros use just hammers and fetching up punches. Dont try to get a factory finish.
Give the chain a couple of whacks straight on the pin, not too hard and not too many.

If your in the UK try to get to a show and I will happily deomonstrate, if your in OZ or US
then it will be difficult to find expertise.

Best regards

Andy

PS For a fetching up punch you can use a socket or bit of tube as long as it fits round the pin
so you can press the plate on. All this needs to be done on a hard surface, the back odf a bench vice
is good. I have thick steel sheets as workbenches in my workshop and it my trailer that take
2 people to lift.

Thanks Andy
What about those chains that need to be fitted In situ?
Also I'm in USA and wont be over near you til IOM next year. Maybe a YouTube Vid?

Just needs 2 people one to hold a big hammer one side and another fitting the plate.

I wish I had the skill to do a youtube vid.

It is all very simple but then again after doing literally 1000s I could do it in my sleep.

IU may get a mate to video me fitting a chain next time.

Andy

PS I did a talk to Kings Norton bike club last night and it is very easy to people how
to fit links and spring clips face to face, I even showed them the difference between
the crap clip and a good one and several said they had lost the crap type.

It would be good for some clubs to start a fund to get me over there for a week
of lectures and demonstrations everybody would then know a little more and could
pass on the information and tips.

re; "the crap clip and a good one and several said they had lost the crap type." quote;


Of all the appropriate words you have to choose from…….you don’t just fit these in the bog, or do you :?:

Nope but I might as well lob the crap ones down the bog.

The Gernans want to charge me a fortune for the clips alone so at present
I take the clip out of the iwis bag and throw the pins and plate away.