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Welcome! Hang around here and enjoy the experience and knowledge of our forum members...
1975 hi rider to covert, opinions?
- Thread starter Skyler6
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When the MK3 came out with it's quiet restrictive stock mufflers, it was a step back in performance while the Japanese were starting to produce more and more powerful bikes, so it's not surprising sales were slow. Get rid of the restrictive exhaust and the power is back, sneak the compression up a bit and it gets better yet.
Twelve years ago when Commando shopping I would have gone for any good Commando, however the MK3 was top of my list for these main reasons
Torquey 850 engine
Strengthened crankcases vs earlier 850 which was strengthened vs 750
Strengthened crank
Strengthened sealed swing arm
The Mk3 quick detachable cush hub rear wheel is a great setup. As a bonus, a 530 oring chain is a drop on upgrade.
Front and rear disc brakes. The front got an upgrade later,but having a disc brake hub made it easy.
Vernier isos
As Dave mentions the MK3 had a lot of changes from earlier models, 150 in all according to one text. I am still discovering some of these. The general intent was improve , improve and for the most part it seems that was accomplished.
Least important at the time was the electric start, however as I age it is looking more and more important.
Glen
Twelve years ago when Commando shopping I would have gone for any good Commando, however the MK3 was top of my list for these main reasons
Torquey 850 engine
Strengthened crankcases vs earlier 850 which was strengthened vs 750
Strengthened crank
Strengthened sealed swing arm
The Mk3 quick detachable cush hub rear wheel is a great setup. As a bonus, a 530 oring chain is a drop on upgrade.
Front and rear disc brakes. The front got an upgrade later,but having a disc brake hub made it easy.
Vernier isos
As Dave mentions the MK3 had a lot of changes from earlier models, 150 in all according to one text. I am still discovering some of these. The general intent was improve , improve and for the most part it seems that was accomplished.
Least important at the time was the electric start, however as I age it is looking more and more important.
Glen
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Skyler6 said:here she is
Hey guys! Happy to be here!
Why are the hi riders so sought after now? If this can look like a standard Norton when converted, then i'm in. Is 6,000 a good price? It said 'electric start' on the side as well. Let me know what you think after you see the photo. The guy said he can send me more as well. I'll get on that.
So ... did you buy it ??? Florida has great year round riding weather for Nortons, or any other motorcycle in my opinion. 77 degrees today and what a great ride it was yesiree
BTW, I plan to convert back to "Hi Rider" look next month. Takes about an hour. The only real time consuming thing is the longer front brake hose to install.
- Joined
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To mk3 or not to mk3 that is the question...
The high rider option is easy to swap out on either bike. The refinements to the 1975 and on are a matter of taste for some. The bikes are similar but not exactly the same.
Frame and swing arm and heavier and built stronger, rear wheel disc, shifter on left, e start and some engine differences as well due to estart. Switch gear is different and might be Japanese though I'm not sure for certain.
I think if I had to do it over again I would have bought a pre-75 as I eventually hot rod stuff. The MK3 does have limitations for a few items, belt drive is one of them. For me I find that to be a big source of recipricating mass to over come. I've since decided my future engine building for the 75 to be moderate at best, cam and head work, balance and carbs. All down the road and more for refinement and less Max high performance.
These bikes always snowball it seems into something more than you intended. Buy what suits your want list, the MK3 is a fine bike just remember it's not exactly like its predecessor and modifications are slightly less available. I paid 7k for mine two years ago as a running rideable bike dressed as a interstate; the roadster I looked at was 1/3 the bike as far as condition which went for more money and shipped to Austrailia. I felt I made out well.
Don't forget the cost of parts though, brakes should be your number one item to address. Modern front brake and a new rear master cylinder from a triumph. Hit me up here if you have questions I can try and help.
The high rider option is easy to swap out on either bike. The refinements to the 1975 and on are a matter of taste for some. The bikes are similar but not exactly the same.
Frame and swing arm and heavier and built stronger, rear wheel disc, shifter on left, e start and some engine differences as well due to estart. Switch gear is different and might be Japanese though I'm not sure for certain.
I think if I had to do it over again I would have bought a pre-75 as I eventually hot rod stuff. The MK3 does have limitations for a few items, belt drive is one of them. For me I find that to be a big source of recipricating mass to over come. I've since decided my future engine building for the 75 to be moderate at best, cam and head work, balance and carbs. All down the road and more for refinement and less Max high performance.
These bikes always snowball it seems into something more than you intended. Buy what suits your want list, the MK3 is a fine bike just remember it's not exactly like its predecessor and modifications are slightly less available. I paid 7k for mine two years ago as a running rideable bike dressed as a interstate; the roadster I looked at was 1/3 the bike as far as condition which went for more money and shipped to Austrailia. I felt I made out well.
Don't forget the cost of parts though, brakes should be your number one item to address. Modern front brake and a new rear master cylinder from a triumph. Hit me up here if you have questions I can try and help.
grandpaul
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I would buy it, refurbish it to reliable roadworthiness, swap out the seat & handlebars, and enjoy it for many years to come.
Re-selling the seat and handlebars (and sissy bar, if it is present) will more than pay for the standard seat & bars. I'd leave the tank & headlight alone.
Re-selling the seat and handlebars (and sissy bar, if it is present) will more than pay for the standard seat & bars. I'd leave the tank & headlight alone.
lazyeye6
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Rusty bucket said:
I own both a Mark 2 and a Mark 3. Both are well fettled but has taken some time and considerable money. A used bike will
have a lot of hidden deferred maintenance. They run and ride
very differently. The Mark 2 goes like a scalded cat with unbelievable torque but is unsuitable for high speed riding for long
distances. The motor simply winds too tight with the 19 stock tooth sprocket. As I am approaching 70, I find it increasingly
difficult to kick start it. It takes a certain degree of practiced athleticism. I will be converting it to electric start when cNw
releases their new kit. The Mark 3 runs and rides like a new machine (and it is with only 3,000 original miles on it). It starts
instantly cold or hot with the original electric start which I hear is not always the case. I has the annular discharge mufflers which I
believe bogs down the acceleration. It also has a 20 tooth stock sprocket which gives it longer legs and allows it to be a higher
speed touring bike at the cost of snappy acceleration. It is a slightly heavier bike. I bought it knowing I wouldn't be able to kick
start my Mark 2 much longer. I strongly prefer the Mark 2, but converted to electric start (not cheap). Buy whichever model
you prefer but as a hobby, not an investment. You will find that you spend way more money on this hobby than you thought
but the grin factor easily overcomes that.
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