1969 Commando revitalization.

Jackman said:

Those Amazon tools are what I used , the inner bolts were a pia I could hardly get a bite or a turn. Probably just me being a newbie next time I’ll be ready for it

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First, I make absolutely sure the screws will go in with fingers. Then I crack loose or final tighten with the stubby end. I use the long in to spin them in or out if I have room or fingers otherwise. Depends on whether the tank is off, if the intake rocker cover is off, if the wiring grommet hole has room for the black set long end to go through it. At any rate, when you get the hang of it it's less than 10 minutes from to ride to carbs off or less than 3 minutes with the tank, intake rocker cover, and seat off. Of course, when I started I found just as hard as you. Doing it with sawed off Allens certainly works and I've got a selection, but ball end is way better!

I’m on the Norton Commando learning curve It’s a slow process but I’m getting there next time with the gained experience should be a much easier task .
Thanks

on the subject of intake rubber connectors, I fitted the right version to the mk3 plastic air filter by spraying connector grooves with some WD40 and putting fingers into connector and working it round, a bit like tyre fitting, until seated. Also did this BEFORE refitting carbs.

jan nelder said:

on the subject of intake rubber connectors, I fitted the right version to the mk3 plastic air filter by spraying connector grooves with some WD40 and putting fingers into connector and working it round, a bit like tyre fitting, until seated. Also did this BEFORE refitting carbs.

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I’m foregoing the intake rubbers for the old school velocity stacks , I dig that old look. Also doing the single cable conversion on the new carbs. I’m just loving this bike it’s so cool, old and simple .

Jackman said:

I’m foregoing the intake rubbers for the old school velocity stacks , I dig that old look. Also doing the single cable conversion on the new carbs. I’m just loving this bike it’s so cool, old and simple .

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The Don Pender gantry setup is nice. But there have been some owners reporting fitment issues, such as fuel tank clearance and imperfect alignment to the carb throttle slider tube top, causing a slight bending and then binding the slides. Search to forum for details, but I thin fettling with a dremel solved it.

Jackman said:

I’m foregoing the intake rubbers for the old school velocity stacks , I dig that old look. Also doing the single cable conversion on the new carbs. I’m just loving this bike it’s so cool, old and simple .

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You do understand that changing the upstream intake air restriction (removing the air filter) will change the jetting?

Tornado said:

The Don Pender gantry setup is nice. But there have been some owners reporting fitment issues, such as fuel tank clearance and imperfect alignment to the carb throttle slider tube top, causing a slight bending and then binding the slides. Search to forum for details, but I thin fettling with a dremel solved it.

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No didn’t know that but I take it as it comes and figure it out or beg for help on the site .

Thanks

concours said:

You do understand that changing the upstream intake air restriction (removing the air filter) will change the jetting?

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Yes I do suspect I’ll have to change jets , the carbs are new and I think it came with some extra jets.

Let us know how those bell mouths work out.
Looks like an interference with the narrow fitting Amals.

Jackman said:

I’m foregoing the intake rubbers for the old school velocity stacks , I dig that old look. Also doing the single cable conversion on the new carbs. I’m just loving this bike it’s so cool, old and simple .

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Velocity stacks look good but can also be dangerous, when I first converted my Commando to the Featherbed frame I ran VS and one day I was at a mates place just leaving, kicked the bike over and it gave a spit through the left carb and unknown to me my new fuel tap was leaking, the bike started and my mate I thought was waving good bye until the flame from the VS and leaking new tap ran up the left arm of my leather jacket, my mate was waving fire, fire, the left carb did the spit, nearly lost my Norton that day, by the time it hit me was too late and up she went then panic set in, lucky my fuel tank wasn't bolted down and was able to pull the tank away, but the new paint job was toast, as was all the wiring and speedo gauge, foam in the seat just melted.
That was the great fire of 83 but lucky was only top damage could have been so much worst, I had it rewired that night and fired up next day but had to wait a week for the seat to be redone, lession learned, don't run VS without air filters and make sure a new fuel tap is not leaking, but the worst thing a week later 100 miles from home and the black Boyar box failed, heat damaged.
Velocity stacks look good but your carbs will suck in unfilted air and long term can damage your motor.
I been running K&N air filter ever since, that was 41 years ago, it was an everyday rider most of its life.
If you love your bike run air filter/filters, a big canvas tarp saved my Norton that day.

Ashley

A year went by but I'm back on the Commando revitalization, mounted up two new Amal premiers two prime kicks and she fired seemed to be cold stumble sputter but cleared up rather quickly and ran beautifully and then I road it still ran great but good gosh my right exhaust pipe turned cherry red so I shut it down , carbs are synched slides and air screws are in sych ... back at it tomorrow . good to be back working on this ole bike

Jackman said:

A year went by but I'm back on the Commando revitalization, mounted up two new Amal premiers two prime kicks and she fired seemed to be cold stumble sputter but cleared up rather quickly and ran beautifully and then I road it still ran great but good gosh my right exhaust pipe turned cherry red so I shut it down , carbs are synched slides and air screws are in sych ... back at it tomorrow . good to be back working on this ole bike

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Check ignition timing I think.

New carbs with standard settings are very unlikely to be that bad.

I synchronized the slides, air mixture screws are 1-1/4 turn out, the needle is middle setting. I’ll be checking timing next but it didn’t run hot on the old carbs .

Jackman said:

I synchronized the slides, air mixture screws are 1-1/4 turn out, the needle is middle setting. I’ll be checking timing next but it didn’t run hot on the old carbs .

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Just to confirm. What kind of ignition are you running?

Aftermarket electronic but not sure what make. I’ll find out in the morning

Jackman said:

Aftermarket electronic but not sure what make. I’ll find out in the morning

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OK. Generally speaking with electronic ignition if it's correct on one side it's correct on the other. It's would be good to get hold of the instructions if you can. Do you own an analogue old fashion strobe and is the degree indicator in place in the primary case?

As an aside the bell mouths you are using with the fine gauze cover are not as dangerous with catching fire as the ones with no gauze. The flame from a backfire is usual stopped by the wire gauze.

However in my experience they are not that great. They stop small rocks and birds but dust will get through and wear the bores. Not great for a street bike especially on dusty roads.

I used fully open bell mouth on race bikes but there you have to accept wear and fire extinguishers are always to hand.

Plus if you test those gauze covered bell mouths on a flow bench you as I have will find they do an impressive job at choking airflow. Much more than a proper aircleaner. So I would have expected the bike to be running rich. Which contradicts your cherry red header pipe. That's why I suggested checking ignition timing. Full advance should be in the 28 to 31 degree range. Aim for the lower end if you have high compression.

concours said:

You do understand that changing the upstream intake air restriction (removing the air filter) will change the jetting?

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He is using gauze covered bellmouths and when I have tested them on a flow bench they restrict airflow more than a good airfilter. So I'm expecting he will find it will be too rich.

Also new carbs need checking for left behind swarf before fitting.

I’m going to try running velocity stacks however the brief ride I did was with out filters.

kommando said:

Also new carbs need checking for left behind swarf before fitting.

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What’s a swarf?

Carbs are spotless but I didn’t take the bowls off.