Where to start on the combat

Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
59
Hello Guys,
Its been a while since I have put up a question. I have recently painted the frame myself (hoping it wont crack when bolted together), my problem is where to start. Do I work on the motor and then get it into the frame first or work on the frame parts swing arm, battery tray,loom etc first. Im also concerned about the oil mods for the combat engine. I do have the cases split but don't have tools modify the case housing and I'm not sure who I can send the work to.

Regards Bryan
 
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
97
Assembly order is probably half a personal preference thing, but these pictures may help: http://rides.webshots.com/album/553484989kBXoou
Not my pictures, just ones i found while searching (maybe a forum member's?) but it gives a good idea of his assembly order.
I personally started with a rolling chassis with the transmission in, then put the motor in, followed by building everything else in around it. I had a bar keeping the swingarm/cradle and main frame rigid without the motor in and just used a jack to keep everything steady while installing the motor. Worked for me. Otherwise there would have been too many wires and lines for my liking hanging around while installing the big stuff.
As for the Combat work, check out Old Britts: http://www.oldbritts.com/n_c_case.html
They offer all the machining you'll need for that problem.
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
1,691
If I were working by myself. Get the motor done lay it on its side along with the frame for easy bolt in. Have the boxes and or timbers on the ready to set the frame on engine on and start on the front end and swing arm before the wheels do the plumbing and wiring. All the rest is your choice.
 
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
97
BTW - One thing i'd connect first before mounting the motor in the frame is the breather hose at the back of the motor, assuming it's in the stock Combat location. If the engine's already in the frame the breather will be all the way at the bottom of the cradle. Combine that lack of room and visibility with a new or tight hose and it can get real frustrating real quick trying to get that SOB on there.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
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1,603
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Brian, I generally do the frame and swingarm/isolastics etc. first, as this gives me somewhere to 'hang' all the other parts as they are completed. I then do the gearbox, followed by the bottom end of the engine. The gearbox is impossible to fit into the carrier with the engine attached at the rear mounts and the rear mounting is insufficiently supported to make a rolling-chassis, without either the engine or some kind of support bar between the rear gearbox/engine mounting plates and the front engine mount. I find that having the bottom end in the frame (which is on a mobile stand) works as a good support for the fitting of barrels, head etc. As the sub assemblies, such as forks wheels etc., are completed I bolt them on, this gives me encouragement as the bike visibly progresses constantly. Good luck
 

Ron L

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Feb 27, 2004
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I take a different approach than Dave M. I usually build the engine and transmission complete on the bench, then mount them both in the engine cradle (with new isolastics). Then if I have help I'll protect the frame rails with some pipe insulation and swing the engine/trans unit into the frame.

If I don't have help, then I'll lay the engine/trans unit on the primary side on a thick blanket and work the frame over it, then turn it upright and lift it onto blocks.

Then I attach the swingarm and start hanging z-plates, battery box, oil tank, etc.

I find it easier to fit the cylinders and head to the crankcase while on the bench than in the frame.

It's really a matter of preference.
 
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
198
work on the Combat

Hi Brian, Try contacting the Norton owners Club based in Melbourne for info. on case mods. Good luck, James
 
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
59
Thanks Guys,
Looks like Ill put the motor in frame first and build around it. I liked the photos and definietly saw some interesting modifications. I noted that the head Isolastic wasn't stock or it definitely looks different to mine. Can I ask what type it is?
Another question, instead of machining that flap out near the rear breather just drill a couple of holes so that the oil could drain to the bottom of the case.
Sound feasible?
 
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