What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

Café au Lait said:

That was indeed my thought but talking to Matt:

“The seal should be OK. That said, the seal arrangement is not the best design as there is an area between the thick spacer and the sleeve gear where there is just metal to metal.”

“I would leave main shaft seal as is.”

The oil was finding its way between the spacer (there are actually 2 because Matt adds a 0.90” spacer to align for a 520 chain) and the sprocket as being so loose there’s enough of a gap when the oil thins due to heat. It only leaks when it’s fully warmed up. Obviously I’ve got to go with his advice and if it doesn’t fix it I’ll have something to do while the bikes off the road due to the salt

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Well, you do know how to take the ES and primary off now, so you'll be prepared next time.

cliffa said:

I was advised to use the Mk3 starter circlip part no. 06-8072 and thin it on a piece of abrasive paper until it’s a snug fit. ( probably worth ordering a couple).

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+1 on using this other circlip (the actual one is a bit too flimsy), but even it is a PITA to install without being super careful not to bend it out of shape so that it does not seat all the way into the groove.

cliffa said:

I was advised to use the Mk3 starter circlip part no. 06-8072 and thin it on a piece of abrasive paper until it’s a snug fit. ( probably worth ordering a couple).

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Bit of work thinning it down to fit in the groove but a much better circlip choice .

Steve W. said:

I also need a new battery for my MKIII. Tried starting it the other day and got about three ugga duggas only. Curious to what brand and part number battery you chose? Mine is currently on a Motobatt 16 amp hr., but I fear it has given up the ghost.
Thanks

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Sorry, forgot to respond to this. Napa Legend ETX15L. Your local NAPA dealer can get one within a day or so, no wait. They do go bad after 2-3 years.

On E bay The Chrome brand are very reasonable 50$

YTXL BS or YTX14 BS depending on how you want the terminals located. These batteries also have a voltage indicator on them. and offer a good warrantee plan.

Installed a new sidestand rubber stop buffer on the sidestand and an air rifle scope mount on the lower frame, positioned to extend the sidestand stop a bit. There is still some slop in the bushing, but reaching the sidestand while seated is a bit easier.

Also began modifying a Bates style tail light mount to fit. It's not as slick as the Old Britts design, but it was reasonably priced and available.

Replaced the H4 LED headlight bulb which had a failed low beam.

Stripped and polished the front fender. The paint wasn't adhering well to the stainless steel, and was chipping off near the screw holes. The rear fender has a number of chips in the paint as well and will be next, but I'm not anxious to do that job again.

Fitted the extra short mounting sleeves from Mikunioz to my FCR's. Overall the sleeve is about 6mm shorter than the std one, a nice bit of extra clearance. Thanks to whoever it was that suggested these a while back.

ntst8 said:

Fitted the extra short mounting sleeves from Mikunioz to my FCR's. Overall the sleeve is about 6mm shorter than the std one, a nice bit of extra clearance. Thanks to whoever it was that suggested these a while back.
View attachment 123367View attachment 123369

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Nice!

Do you know a part number for these at all, so I can try and source in the U.K.?

Fast Eddie said:

Nice!

Do you know a part number for these at all, so I can try and source in the U.K.?

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No part number sorry, screenshot below from Mikunioz website, delivery paperwork uses the same info.
Edit - wording below the pic applies, i should have cropped top of the screenshot.

ntst8 said:

No part number sorry, screenshot below from Mikunioz website, delivery paperwork uses the same info.
Edit - wording below the pic applies, i should have cropped top of the screenshot.

View attachment 123370

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Thank you

ntst8 said:

No part number sorry, screenshot below from Mikunioz website, delivery paperwork uses the same info.
Edit - wording below the pic applies, i should have cropped top of the screI seen your post as

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ntst8 said:

No part number sorry, screenshot below from Mikunioz website, delivery paperwork uses the same info.
Edit - wording below the pic applies, i should have cropped top of the screenshot.

View attachment 123370

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Real happy to see your post about these - as an extra 6mm clearance will make all the difference with slotting the RGM slim ham can air filter into place with my Keihin CRS carbs. Heading over to Mikunioz website now to order.

Nothing terribly exciting....
While waiting for my garage temperature to rise so I can replace a cam chain tensioner, I got a couple of stickers to tidy up the front of my Rita control box.
Custom job from https://www.isaydingdong.co.uk/
(I ordered two, as if I'd only got one, I would have dropped it sticky side down...)

Removed the oil tank and cleaned the sludge out. (The strip of Gaffer tape is strategically placed to avoid the side panel rubbing).

It's in great condition, inside & out

Late last week I finally finished my GB oil leak repair and took him out for a short shakedown run up and down my road. What did I find? Bloody black oil on my centre stand

Day before yesterday, having cleaned him up I took a long run to visit my brother in Portsmouth and half way stopped and checked again, sod it but still black not what I normally have, clean GB oil. Once I arrived I immediately rechecked, nothing, phew! I had thoroughly or least I thought thoroughly cleaned the chain but I’m certain now it was GB oil from before that, now so cold and therefore sticky (SAE 140 50/50 Lucas Oil at Matt’s recommendation to slow the leakage until I could pull him apart) had clung it the inner chain links.

The other benefit of the repair is that a noticeably snatchy drivetrain and a whistling, presumably caused by the extra spacer Matt installs spinning, have both been entirely eliminated, the bike now runs exactly as first delivered.

Very glad I took the job on myself, I now know the workings of the primary intimately. Let’s hope this is the end of my Norton rebuilding lessons for a good while to come



All nice and clean and waiting upon a clutch locking tool to finish the job

ntst8 said:

No part number sorry, screenshot below from Mikunioz website, delivery paperwork uses the same info.
Edit - wording below the pic applies, i should have cropped top of the screenshot.

View attachment 123370

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One caveat with those Mikunioz short adapters, which I also use....
The saving in length comes from removal of the spacer/land in the centre. That means that you could butt the manifold stub hard against the carb spigot - not desirable methinks.
I make sure the carbs can wiggle a bit up and down after tightening. Easy to do and will save vibes from shortening the life of carb components and maybe affecting performance.
Cheers

I too would worry about contact especially if not checked regularly. I resolved the issue with the carb cap screws touching at the rear by cable tying the carbs into the desired position before tightening the jubilee clips as I found one side would sag at the back during the process.

I also stuck a small strip of foam with an adhesive backing on the frame’s contact point but frankly I needn’t have bothered as the carbs remained put.