Vernier Isolatic adjustment

The long iso bolt and the screw on end caps abutting the frame tabs are what resists the iso bolt end nuts clamp force, not the gap between tube rims and end caps. The end rims of the iso mount tube must have free motion gap and any touching there d/t out of square surfaces or twist of chassis loads will bind to transmit damaging engine vibes. Trixie '72 frame is deer and crash bent so had to both spread tubes some and mill down factory tube to slip in reasonablly but still in a bind, yet after a 1000 miles of diddling the head steady neutral and some bedding in of the gap, Trixie is a smooth flyer as any, but for tri-linked beveled front cushioned, + 2 extra rear doughnuts Ms Peel total disappearing act of course.

One thing only hobot on Peel knows. so far, is just how much BS jossltes and jiggles from wind eddies and road texture get all splashed together in best un-tamed Cdo's to feel like engine vibes but is totally chassis and tire related. The more ya try to loosen up to ease this the more you better tension>pensive up on powering into long held sweepers. I've ridden enough Cdo's now to know Trixie lands close to top of comfort zone now, but still feels like a loosey goosey obsolete motorcycle under neath compared to my tri-linked flying plywood stable plank, as flying carpets annoy with their fabric and fringe flapping buzz, sheeeze. On rails is bragging rights of normal Cdo'rs like my Trixie, but on rails is just an annoying rough ride trapped in a rut compared to Ms Peel water skiing on a hard plane on mirror smooth surface about no matter the surface roughness or wind gusts. Closest thing I've experienced to compare is snow boarding knee deep in power through trees no one else wants to risk. If stopped just stink hip deep so only motion floats the magic flowing sense.

hobot said:

The long iso bolt and the screw on end caps abutting the frame tabs are what resists the iso bolt end nuts clamp force, not the gap between tube rims and end caps.

Click to expand...

Not sure how that would work. How can there be any load transmitted from the iso bolt onto the end cap if there is 0.01" clearance required? Would it not be the shims between the end cap and the frame tabs that provide the interference by pressing against the PTFE and collar iso bolt nut?

Hobot, just wanted to say that your above post was to the point and clearly worded without unnecessary clutter.

Thanks for cleaning it up!

hobot said:

The long iso bolt and the screw on end caps abutting the frame tabs are what resists the iso bolt end nuts clamp force, not the gap between tube rims and end caps.

Click to expand...

YA YA YA, What are you doing, taking over for lab?

Oh, and no screw on end caps with non vernier ISO's.

Did you get your prescription filled or do you need to get your prescription filled?

Go here http://www.members.shaw.ca/randell/isolastics.html and read it until you understand it. Then take off your front iso complete, and work on it on the bench. Then buy Hemmings adjusters and forget the shims, you will need nothing else except his adjusters to get rid of the shims and have adjustable isos. Unless you like fettling forever.

Dave
69S

Where did you get the Hemmings?

BC

Mick Hemmings, Northampton, UK. You have to call him. 0164 638505 plus the UK code however that works for you, you might have to drop the first 0. £69 delivered to US. I got mine in Feb this year. They come with a small grub screw with a nylon tip. Some re-drill and re-tap for a larger screw and forget the nylon tip. I haven't messed with it yet, just set them up out of the box. It only replaces one collar on one side of the front and rear isos, but you can get rid of the shims. Works best on left for front, and some say left on rear, but since I have the S exhaust, I put it on the right on the rear. Make sure you get new boots, if your old ones are real thick and stiff, you can't peel them back enough to get to the grub screw.

Dave
69S

The shims work but higher pain factor. Still laboring with them here but haven't had to fool with them in years.

See 750/850 factory workshop manual. Even when done in the vise (method 2) they still have you torque the bolt to 25 ft/lbs.

So after checking out the set up, I've put it together properly and the end cap moves between the frame tube and PTFE washer. But there's no shims and approx. 0.003 clearance each side (front). I going to leave it as is until I get it running and gauge the vibrations at that point. I'm wondering if there's any thoughts on 0.006" clearance rather than the shop recommended 0.010". Adding a shim will reduce this further so that's out.

Stillreel said:

So after checking out the set up, I've put it together properly and the end cap moves between the frame tube and PTFE washer. But there's no shims and approx. 0.003 clearance each side (front). I going to leave it as is until I get it running and gauge the vibrations at that point. I'm wondering if there's any thoughts on 0.006" clearance rather than the shop recommended 0.010". Adding a shim will reduce this further so that's out.

Click to expand...

Run it down and shake it out for awhile. Things will loosen up. Check it after o good run and see what you get. .006 total is not bad and prefered by some. Try it, you might like it.

Police and racers - paid- to ride a buzzing tighter handling Commandos, set gaps to .006-5". Its still safe for frame but may stiffle desire to ride long unless some extra incentive to do so. Unless really flinging around dangerously or holding a lean in accelerating sweepers into the 80's 90's its much more practical comfy to run a bit loosey goosey to me.