Vernier Iso adjusters

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FastFred

FastFred

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I lost my instructions for these that have been on the bike a few years and want to adjust them. Does anyone have any instructions please? I slackened the front big through bolt but the grub screw then ends up against the frame so cant be tightened. Help as I cant see much with the rubber gaitor thanks.
 
Shoot me a PM with your email address and I can send you a copy of the originals that came with the kit.
Cheers
Dave
 
FastFred said:
I slackened the front big through bolt but the grub screw then ends up against the frame so cant be tightened.
Click to expand...

If it is the actual Hemmings vernier then the adjustment is done with the through-bolt/stud tightened (unlike the factory vernier Iso.).
 
Thanks Lab and I read that today on the net but it wouldn't turn without slackening the through bolt? Even so the grub screw would land up inaccessible with where it currently is relative to the frame. One other post stated you didnt need the grub screw as it all tightens up with the thro bolt.. I can see that IF there is enough clearance between the outer adjuster collar and the frame then the grub screw becomes required and the thro bolt secures it all.
 
FastFred said:
Thanks Lab and I read that today on the net but it wouldn't turn without slackening the through bolt?
Click to expand...

Then perhaps something isn't right as adjustment of the Hemmings Iso. is achieved by screwing the adjuster (either in or out) along the threaded sleeve.
Vernier Iso adjusters


FastFred said:
Even so the grub screw would land up inaccessible with where it currently is relative to the frame.
Click to expand...

Then you should be able to move the grub screw to a different adjuster hole?
 
I'll have another look soon. It was going to be one of those 5 minute jobs, you know the type, half hour later and lots of greasy hands and swearing you have gone backwards. I only saw one adjuster screw hole..!
 
FastFred said:
I only saw one adjuster screw hole..!
Click to expand...

Sorry to have to ask but are you sure it's a Hemmings Iso. as a single hole sounds more like a factory vernier Iso. fixed abutment (opposite end to the adjuster)?

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That might explain why.. I just checked my receipts file and it is a Norvil front Vernier one! Sorry. Now how do I adjust it?
 
Curious as what condition/RPM the vibration is measured.
Is it at idle on center stand, on a test ride or???
 
Thanks everyone, the grub screw stays tightened and I need to adjust the other end then.
 
MichaelB said:
Curious as what condition/RPM the vibration is measured.
Is it at idle on center stand, on a test ride or???
Click to expand...

I test mine initially in the garage, sitting on the bike, feet on the ground, center stand and kickstand in the stowed positions - rev the bike up to 3000 rpm and ensure that the vibrations dissipate.

Once I am happy, I take the bike for a verification test ride.
 
I use a feeler gauge. (10 thou. is my preference).

With the bolt slackened, what I do is turn the adjuster (opposite end to the abutment) until the feeler is a sliding fit, leave it in place then begin tightening the through-bolt (or rear stud).

If at any point the feeler becomes tight I slacken the bolt and slacken off the adjuster approximately 1/8th of a turn and begin tightening the bolt/stud again and repeat the procedure until the feeler is a sliding fit with the bolt/stud fully tightened.
 
Thanks L.A.B. it's a bugger to get to that end with the timing chest there and gaitor in place tho
 
L.A.B. said:
I use a feeler gauge. (10 thou. is my preference).

With the bolt slackened, what I do is turn the adjuster (opposite end to the abutment) until the feeler is a sliding fit, leave it in place then begin tightening the through-bolt (or rear stud).

If at any point the feeler becomes tight I slacken the bolt and slacken off the adjuster approximately 1/8th of a turn and begin tightening the bolt/stud again and repeat the procedure until the feeler is a sliding fit with the bolt/stud fully tightened.
Click to expand...
If you are going to use a feeler gauge, make sure you check the clearance around the entire periphery of the adjuster, not just one spot. There can be variations in clearance around the circumferance.

That is why I abandoned it for the minimum clearance method. FWIW
 
FastFred said:
it's a bugger to get to that end with the timing chest there and gaitor in place tho
Click to expand...

Well, it shouldn't be although the conversion adjuster is slightly narrower than the Mk3 adjuster and depends if it is the correct (Mk3) gaiter and also if it is fitted correctly so the holes in the adjuster are outside the gaiter which should be located in the adjuster groove.
Vernier Iso adjusters
 
Complete agreement about the space about the collar. I have the Mick type and one thing that is a bother is the grub screw has a
tiny nylon nose that can part company.
Also unfortunately the looser the adjustment is the less vibration you have. It does seem to affect handling as you go looser.
Although I kept the forward mount gaitor I don't use the aft one. Too much of a bother.
 
Onder said:
Also unfortunately the looser the adjustment is the less vibration you have. It does seem to affect handling as you go looser.
Click to expand...

That is the same for the original Iso's shim version, the MK3 Vernier and the Mick Hemmings. Its a balance and depends on your priorities, you can also gain some handling using the Kegler swingarm clamps and then loosen off the iso's.
 
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