Vernier Isolastics (2006)

Jerry Doe

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I have vernier isolastics to fit in my non vernier isolastic designed commando. I think the rear isolastic in the cradle require no modification.

I am getting conflicting comments on my front engine mount/isolastic.

Should I get the right hand side turned down for the new isolastic? If so has anyone got the correct width?

Thanks for your help,

Jerry
 
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One side has a longer section outside the plate, turn it down so it matches the short side.
 
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Norvil has a kit that does not require machining the mount. I put one in my bike, works great.

Debby
 

ILLF8ED

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front vernier isolastic

Hi Debby,

I've heard the Norvil front ISO not requiring machining doesn't give much room to adjust. How do you find it?
 
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I have the Mick Hemmings design on front and rear,no problems,very easy to fit and adjust, no modifications at all,the only drawback is the very small locking screw -- 4mm dia x 0.7mm pitch, Mick supplies only one with each unit,I have some "spares" if anyone out there needs a couple,they are VERY hard to find.Ride safely and vibe. free. James.
PS. cost from Mick is 52 pounds sterling.
 
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I installed the Norvil setup but found it very difficult to get the front mount in place. I guess the same could apply to the Hemmings version. On my bike the caps catch on the frame rails as it's lifted into place from below and it has to be tapped upwards with the engine bolts out. Even had to grind a little off the front of one case to get it in.
The other issue is clearance and not sure if Debbie or anyone else had the same problem but with 1/2 turn out recommended setting I had less than 0.002" on the rear but 0.007" on the front. I also have out of square isos so the front reads 003"/007". The rear at 5 holes out is now 007"/011". So the original settings gave excessive vibes and it was only when I measured the clearances that the solution was clear. As usual the supplier was dismissive and suggested I hadn't counted the holes correctly or had way overtightened the adjuster before backing off for clearance. Maybe it's just my installation geometry that causes the problem. I wouldn't bother again, with less than 3000m annually the old shim set up would last three years before it needed touching.
 
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Keith1069 said:
I installed the Norvil setup but found it very difficult to get the front mount in place.

I had that problem with my rear mount but it turned out not to be the iso's fault. I measured the distance between the mounting plates on the frame and found it to be out of spec. I ended up spreading the frame rails slightly to make it fit.

No problems with my front iso, slid right in.

I adjusted mine per the instructions (half turn out) and it seems ok - vibrates a bit under 3K then smooths right out. Don't know what the actual clearance is ATM - will check it when I do the 1,000 mile service.

I had been using the Hemmings collars, but when I stripped the frame for powdercoating I found the buffers were all worn out and needed to be replaced. I bought new ones but they were rock hard. So I went with the Norvil kit and sold the Hemmings collars. The rubber in the Norvil kit feels more like it's supposed to.

Debby
 

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Keith wrote "I wouldn't bother again, with less than 3000m annually the old shim set up would last three years before it needed touching."

My riding is about the same number of miles per year, <3,000. I think that's why I haven't bothered to switch to the vernier isolastics. Thanks Keith, you're saving me some money.
 

Jerry Doe

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Too late

I already have the verniers and am about to fit them. I hope it goes better for me than you.:?

I need the fitting and adjusting instructions. Is there anyway someone could post the procedure here?

I am going for it this weekend!!

Best Regards,

Jerry
 
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I bought a milled and powdercoated one from Old Britts but it still needed some grinding to make it fit. The new plastic? washers are quite a bit thicker than the ones that came out of the bike.
 
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Norvil.....difficult to fit, but no mods to the parts...would NOT go back to standard, because it is the first time in thirty years, the bike has handled like it should....and I have had not one time to adjust, in now, six years...satisfied.
 
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Front iso mount

RGM quotes the flange width each side of the front mount should be 5.5-6mm (about 1/4") on either side and .006 total clearance.

Duane
 

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I have a Mk2 front isolastic for which I purchased part number 06.7337 (vernier kit for Mk2) from Andover Norton. I purchased this with the understanding no machining was required and it was a "drop in" fitment.

Did I get that right? Will contact AN if nobody knows to finalize this question. Thank you!
 

L.A.B.

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I have a Mk2 front isolastic for which I purchased part number 06.7337 (vernier kit for Mk2) from Andover Norton. I purchased this with the understanding no machining was required and it was a "drop in" fitment.

Did I get that right?

Yes. The kit that fits the pre-Mk3 Iso. front mount is 06.7337.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17047

The Mk3 kit (the one that requires the pre-Mk3 Iso. mount to be machined) is 06.7116.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16919
 
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I have a Mk2 front isolastic for which I purchased part number 06.7337 (vernier kit for Mk2) from Andover Norton. I purchased this with the understanding no machining was required and it was a "drop in" fitment.

Did I get that right? Will contact AN if nobody knows to finalize this question. Thank you!
as L.A.B. stated, the 06.7337 AN kit requires no machining or modification of the front mount. it is pretty much plug and play. just installed the same AN kit on my 74 Mk2. fitting the gaiters and setting the lateral adjustment is a bit tricky, but doable. one tip L.A.B. gave me was to set the end play at .010". can't comment on any vibration characteristics at this point in time, since my bike was DOA. ;)
 

L.A.B.

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one tip L.A.B. gave me was to set the end play at .010".

Not exactly a tip of mine as 0.010" is just the "ideal clearance" stated in the (pre-Mk3) factory manual.

My tip would be to check there is the desired clearance (as it doesn't necessarily have to be 0.010" but it's a good starting point) after the through-bolt (front Iso.) and stud (rear) have been fully tightened.
 
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Not exactly a tip of mine as 0.010" is just the "ideal clearance" stated in the (pre-Mk3) factory manual.

My tip would be to check there is the desired clearance (as it doesn't necessarily have to be 0.010" but it's a good starting point) after the through-bolt (front Iso.) and stud (rear) have been fully tightened.
tip, suggestion, advice, or whatever - what you said about the pre-torque vs. torqued clearance made sense. still appreciate the input and help - ;)
 
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Jdub

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I also appreciate the tireless help I get from all of you - thank you very much!
 
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Speaking of iso's, has anyone tried to correct the rear wheel-rear fender alignment quandary with the iso's? Seems like a little shift one way on one and a little shift the other way with the other, re-align with the chain adjusters and the wheel could be properly centered.
 
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