TRITON, at last...

Well, the old "find the right diameter socket and use THAT to press the old bushing out with" trick paid off.

I borrowed my friend's 30-ton press and heavy duty socket set, arranged some press blocks accordingly, set the swingarm atop a socket that was sized to allow the old bits to slide out of the swingarm and into the socket's hollow, then jigged a thin socket into a 6" extension and started pressing.

It tightened up then started to resist pretty heavily, so I released it and checked everything; no worries. Re-started the pressing and got to the stiff spot then slowly pumped in 2 more pumps, feeling around the swingarm for any possible buckling, and all of a sudden "POP"!The rest was gravy, it all slid right out.

I don't beileve the swingarm tube is "stepped", I believe the second bearing's outer sleeve is lodged in there. However, it doesn't bother me or my planned half-spindle & bushing modification, so I'm leaving it in.

...besides we didn't have a socket or dowel of the exact size needed to press the thin-walled sleeve out.

What will you do with the Suz 4ls?? I saw some lightened, some used as is.... I have one I bought locally for $100 some years ago and I am still keeping it for some obscure projects I may have one day. I think it does need a weight shave like on the inside but where to find larger shoes (and in good materials!). Please show us what you are doing with it!
Philippe

At present, the plan is to firts strip and clean it, inspect it, then send the main body parts to polishing.

I have never seen one up close, that I can recall, but it appears the cooling louvers are pressed tin. If so, they'll get re-chromed if in good shape, or replaced with screens.

I don't think I want to lighten it, I'm not going to gain enough to risk compromising the integrity. I understand these components can stress crack.

I heard of some cracks on the T500 2ls but never on the 4ls...
Philippe

grandpaul said:

the cooling louvers are pressed tin. If so, they'll get re-chromed if in good shape, or replaced with screens.

Click to expand...

The ugly chromed pieces are just covers, you can remove and chuck 'em underneath there are some perforated covers to keep rats and squirrels out.

Jean

I'm not worried about rats and squrrels, just need to make sure they have deer and goat protection in case I ever let Hobot ride the bike...

Okay, I'm now on the "Mark III" design of the swingarm spindle upgrade.

I'm going with a solid 3/4" dia. spindle, welded to one plate, then turned down to 1/2" and rethreaded on the other end where it will pass through the frame web at full 3/4" diameter and abut the second plate at it's 1/2" hole. The length of the 3/4" section of the shaft will be the exact out-to-out dimension of the frame webs.

No drawing at the moment, as my new installation of AutoCAD on my laptop is flaking out on the dialog boxes (missing a .dll file, apparently), so I only have an unfinished line drawing update.

Delivered to powdercoater yesterday:

(2) Featherbed frames, swingarms & miscellaneous bits

(2) Commando frames and all associated bits

All of the above were bolt, washer & nutted per Old Britts' spec sheet, and will be completion masked by powdercoater per the masking instructions.

About 10 days from now, should have pix of all the nice freshly powdercoated bits.

Here's the custom made lug for the Commando sidestand-



Welded up with gusset plate on the backside, the last detail before prep for powdercoat-



Also got in the first batch of overhaul parts for the Bonnie lump-



Gaskets, bearings, seals, valves & guides, primary & drive chain, new sprocket, electronic ignition kit, Emgo clutch plates (my favorites), and allen head sump plug.

Very cool thread Paul !!! I really like yer kickstand bracket fabrication. When I needed a sidestand bracket on my 1973 Norton (the old one was butchered bad so I cut it off) had my buddy weld on a sidestand braket I cut off a 1973 Honda CB750 frame. Works a treat, and CB750 sidestands are easily and cheaply available. My Norton leans at a perfect angle now IMHO, but I also like what you have done ... keep up the great posts !!!

Pat

I kept wondering why no word back from Dresda, and kept missing the "golden hour" where I could make contact before thier shop closing; finally got a call in this morning and Dave informed me that they only had one set of engine plates done and had been waiting on materials stock up until yesterday. Supposedly, the other 2 sets will be ready by next week, should have them in about 2 weeks.

Looks like everything will be coming together about the same time.

I'll just mount up a useable tire on the front wheel for now, then mock up the rolling chassis as soon as trhe frame is powdercoated. I've got some spacer & brake torque arm fabrication to do on the forks.

We meet again GPZ
I don't know how you find the time with all these different forums !
Keep up the good work!

Webby

I work in extended flurries of activity, then hours on end on the phone, then days on the forums, then back in the shop when parts arrive, then repeat the cycle.

Bushings and thrust washers arrived yesterday, just need the chassis bits back from powdercoat and the new spindle setup will be ready to mock up.

Got in the spindle steel stock today and test-fit the bushings, VERY NICE gentle friction fit, so the heavy oil will migrate slowly (I'll use wicking o-rings to keep it in check).

Powdercoater says everything is ready, so I'll venture out into the freezing and possibly snowy I-35 corridor tomorrow...

The Triton Build race is on! (You'll win )
I look forward to seeing the photos of all the nice shiny bits !

I should get my swing arm tomorrow or Monday and a pile of rear end parts next week, then it's time to check the chain run and order the spokes and rim for the rear wheel. Once that's done I'll be fabbing up the electrical panel and ordering the rear fender and tail light.

Webby

Webby03 said:

... Once that's done I'll be fabbing up the electrical panel and ordering the rear fender and tail light.

Click to expand...

You ought to put off ordering parts "onsie-twosie" and put in 2 or 3 large orders for the entire bike. The savings on shipping will pay for a set of Avons.

I know, but then I'll get bored!
Anyway, I can't order the rear wheel rim and spokes till I've got the rear hub in place, once I have built the wheel I can then decide on the rear fender I need which will dictate the rear light and license plate I will use. Once the back end is done it's back to the big orders for the front end and the engine/transmission parts. I'll get the front end parts from RGM but I've decided to splash out on the Landsdown damper kit and all the engine parts will come from Dresda or Supreme.

Webby

Picked up the powdercoated stuff, my retrofit swingarm bushings are a very nice tight press fit. Excellent news.

This time next week, the first 5 swingarm spindle/bushing kits will be prototyped and ready.

Frame & swingarm back from powdercoat-

I want that so bad.

New bushings pressed in beautifully, spindle is a perfect snug slip fit, oil fill bolt hole is threaded with new stainless bolt in place (will get a fiber washer snugged up by a flat washer)-



Swingarm in place, still need to weld up spindler plate to spindle, cut retainer plate, drill both plates & frame for security bolts, then cut off, turn down & thread spindle end for retainer nut. It's a perfect fit so far, still need engine mounting plates to test whether I'll need to hollow out backsides to clear spindle retaining hardware. Swingarm swings through it's arc with just a hint of friction-



Frame-to-swingarm spacing with the thrust washers leaves a small gap at each side that I'll need to take up with another pair of modified thrust washers incorporating a capture groove for oil retaining o-rings, and outer rubber dust sleeves cut from bicycle inner tubes.