TRITON, at last...

I used to use I.T.S., but have found it only takes a few dollars more to obtain a fresh Texas title on a custom-built bike.

It takes a LOT of paperwork, and a couple of trips across town to the Tax Collector's office and Police HQ (visual inspection & computer check). Well worth it.

Check the laws in your state for "home built", "custom built" and "salvage"; one of the thjree will be the way to go to get 'er done.
 
Here's my rendering of the bike, still not sure on mufflers...

TRITON, at last...
 
I haven't drawn the lighting yet, I drew the bike to this stage to save the working drawing as a race bike; just need to add number plates to the copy of the drawing...

I doubt it will ever get on the track under a green flag; although I sure wouldn't MIND doing so!
 
If it ends up like the drawing it'll be fantastic. Do you have any other exhaust options you're throwing around?
 
I was thinking just the shorty scrambler straight pipes.

On the shelf, I have the OEM "H" connector pipe, clamps, mufflers and full "chips basket" heat shield, as well as a set of universal mini mufflers, and a set of open mini megaphones (as drawn).

Not sure which woulkd result in better performance, the straight pipes or open megs. Certainly the mini muffs are quiter, and it's fairly doubtful I'll go with the big 'ol Triumph muff setup.
 
Thumbs down on the mini mufflers if they are what I'm thinkin. Hard to really tell unless you do a mock up with different options.
 
Engine mount conversion plates and all overhaul parts have been ordered and are on the way.

Frame and associated parts are stripped for powdercoat, those will get delivered to powdercoater next week, parts to be chromed will go in to the plater on the same day.

Engine covers will wait for polishing till conversion plates arrive; the plates might need to be polished as well (not sure of the level of finish).

Next thing I need to do is work out the fit of the wheels with the forks & swingarm, to see if I'm going to need custom spacers and/or axles.

The front wheel fit will be last to decide, depending on whether I am able to acquire a 4LS brake in a timely manner.

Humming right along...
 
Should polish up nicely. Shouldered Akront or Excel to complete the wheel?

I paid 450$ for my whole Water Buffalo 20 years ago.
 
I have a nicer set of shouldered aluminum wheels, but they are 40-spoke Triumphs. I found out last night I would have had to enlarge the swingarm axle slots for the bigger axle, so it's on to "plan B" with a Norton rear wheel.
 
A couple of years ago, I tried to sell my water buffalo wheel, complete with an 18" WM3 DID alloy rim with stainless steel spokes for $500 and never got a bite, glad I kept it for my café racer.

BTW, check out e-bay for the front brake lever, they go for about $75 and I found a complete extended cable set (clutch, brake (2) throttle) for a drum braked Gt750 for $15, again on e-bay.

Jean
 
MIGHTA! (How many of you remember what that means?)

I've successfully re-invented the wheel (so to speak). I've come up with what I believe is a simple, straight-forward, relatively easy to fabricate design for a swingarm bushing & half-spindle conversion for the featherbed frame.

TRITON, at last...


TRITON, at last...


TRITON, at last...


Yes, I know, there are needle bearing conversions and other solutions already out there, I want my TriTon to be MY TriTon.

Every forum is doing something different with these illustrations. This forum is chopping off the right side. Nothing significant is lost from what is cropped here.

I'll re-size and re-upload later...
 
Paul,

I think you need a spacer on the through bolt to keep the frame rails from caving in and jamming swing arm movement. You could probably do away with the through bolt and use the pins like you drew but solid and having them meet in the middle with a pin "joint"

Jean
 
In the un-cropped illustration, you'll see the Nylock nut on the through-bolt, just snugged to eliminate any side-to-side play in the swingarm.

I thought about perhaps making the half-spindles meet in the middle, that's still a possibility; I mean, why not? (would only need to insure that the oil fill bolt doesn't protrude enough to interfere).

I'm scratching my brain and not seeing too much to be critical of on this; surely it's been done before, it just seems "natural".
 
How about making each side meet in the middle with a screw joint with each side plate drilled in a lot of places and round instead of oblong, you could then adjust the "play" and lock the thing in place.

Jean
 
The side plates on the frame don't have enough width to do much with, beyond enlarging the spindle bolt hole to 3/4" and having enough mating surface to ensure a strong bolt-up mount with one security bolt above, and one below. Remember that the security hardware must clear the shoulder of the bushing lip on the inside face...

I've re-designed the half spindles to meet in the center with a male/female joint.

Last night, I visited my buddy who just got a nice new lathe and he's agreed to make the parts for me. I've never seen perfect welds like the ones he does; absolutely flawless. He's a custom knife maker who bought this lathe to start making gun barrels. He turned out the bushings for my monoshocker's rising rate linkage on his old lathe, and welded up the parts; they appear to have been done on automated equipment.

It's nice to have friends; especially friends with tools & equipment!
 
I went ahead and re-designed the spindle bits to be true HALF-SPINDLES. I altered the design to full-width, with a male/female joint in the center.

I don't think it lends much to the strength of the assembly, as all the load happens at the bushings; nevertheless, it will cost all of 10 or 20 dollars more to build this way, so why not...

TRITON, at last...
 
I just can't believe the bare spindle bolt against the bare steel frame web is all that the legendary handling featherbed had going for it in the swingarm pivot area...

...and it's only a 1/2" bolt!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top