Dont forget that it isnt unheard of to stick a centre pot either.
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Yes-I hear you loud and clear and I have argued that if the cams peak at around 4500 rpm and allowing another 1000 rpm to gather "momentum " I figure 5-5K is adequate for me ~ thus why I say that only occasionally I might touch 6K !
(I notice that quite a few of the Triples that come up on E bay have such crankcase damage ! Occh!! Not a nice experience ~ I only blew an A65L in such a fashion ~ )
My fellow triple compatriates argue that 6K is mandatory riding. I think I will stick to my preferred range of 5K + & go home happy !
And flickering oil lights and lower oil pressures are a real debate ~ a mate down south, calls Oil gauges ~ "Stress meters" and argues it is best not to even entertain fitting them. Something to be said for this too!
I would be concerned leaning out excessively on a triple to arrive at those MPG figures...
GP
Appreciate your thoughts herein ~
Bob is an retired Engineer and ran a (Rail dragster) race team up until two years ago ~ arguably one of the best in Australia ~ He is, I believe well qualified and a very knowledgeable on all things metallic, and fuel & delivery systems ~
He has done extensive testing on this Amal carb issue, and as a base issue, the header pipes are perfect colour with NO discolouring. I too was concerned about this, but this lack of discolouring tells me that there is little to no leaning out ~
As a matter of Interest here si the comprehensive list of modications and repairs 'Bob' did to my carbs and gantry
Stuart,
I’ve finished the T150 complete carb set.
Some points I wish to explain.
The manifold plate the carbs bolt onto was bent by .100” and had to be straightened. I guess this was caused by bolting the manifold using the 2 centre bolts to the air filter plate too tightly by someone?
When you fit them don’t do the bolts up too tight please as it will bend again.
If bent again the carb bodies will distort also.
There should be lock nuts to secure the 2 x 5/16” bolts in place at filter plate.
# 3 float bowl needle seat was lose plus the gasket surface was badly pitted and would have only sucked air and not fuel for the idle circuit so I replaced it with a new bowl and needle seat.
All 3 slides were # 3 cutaway and not 3 ½ cutaway so I have fitted Amal’s new Hard Anodized 3 ½ slides. These will never wear out, trust me, they are brilliant.
# 1 carb had a T160, 5 groove identification needle on the middle clip while # 2 & 3 had worn T150 needles but on the top clip position, and # 2 slide was .080” higher up at rest than the others, not good.
All of the 3 piano wires were bent beyond; well I don’t now what.
All of the float levels were set at 3/16” down way too low plus someone has heated and bent the plastic float needle tangs to try and obtain a correct float level. This should never be done.
I have replaced all 3 floats & float pins with new and re-set the floats to the correct level and fitted Viton Alloy float needles.
All of your main jets flowed much higher than they should have and were closer to 160 mains not 150 mains, so I fitted 3 x new flowed mains and 3 x 106 new needle jets including 3 x T150 new 2 groove identification needles. (T150)
All 3 carby top plates were bent so I straightened those and resurfaced them. All 3 x carby body gasket faces were re-surfaced including the float bowl gasket surfaces including the new one as they stupidly come not flat also.
It is very important the carbs can’t suck air here at the gasket face or else it won’t draw fuel from the bowl feed hole for the idle circuit.
All 3 welch plugs were removed and the mixing chamber under was bead blasted and cleaned; they were chockers with crap. Every carb and associated parts were also bead blasted and cleaned.
# 2 carb had an incorrect short Air Mixture Adjusting screw which would not have worked at all to adjust idle mixture and the others were badly pitted and rusty so I replaced all 3 screws with new O rings.
Your carbs were mounted with 1 3/8” factory O rings to the manifold plate but I’ve since learned the O ring receiver groove in the carby body is never deep enough and causes the carby flange to bow, so I have fitted gaskets to the carbs and not O rings, should seal better and not warp the flanges.
Your carby slide springs; well; while they were the correct light type of spring for a Triple they all varied in length greatly which meant one springs was not anywhere near long enough to be effective so I re-set these to 3 1/2 “ the correct free length.
I replaced your stainless steel spring washers on the 10-32 socket head screws with the correct steel type and removed your stainless 5/16” spring washers on the carby mounting bolts with flat AN washers and fitted 5/16” unf AN self locking nuts. Your 5/16” washers need too much pressure to work correctly plus they will bruise and scuff the bolt face plus the carbs should be fitted with self locking nuts not plain nuts and spring washers.
Remember the carbs are not Alloy but merely Pot Metal or almost Zinc in construction and need to be handled carefully or else they buckle.
All 3 slides are now set equal to each other and shouldn’t need further adjustment; the air screws are set at 1 ¼ turns out each so the only adjustment by you when hot is the final air screw adjustment and idle speed, but, I would try it at 1 ¼ turns out first and only adjust the idle speed screw.
However, if when you first start the bike from dead cold and it spits in the carbs if you have adjusted the air screws out to say 1 ½ to 1 ¾ turns out this means they should be screwed back in to richen the idle, that’s why I have them at 1 ¼ turns out.
If spitting occurs at idle it is Only the air adjuster screws need adjusting in and nothing else.
The throttle gantry bushes were ok so I left them alone to save you some money and only cleaned and re-greased them and fitted new circlips and washers including the correct gantry return spring retaining end washer with the correct item.
The carbies on the complete set are a mixture and are L15, 1969 Trident, R68, 1973-74 Trident and R66, 1973-74 Trident but that doesn’t matter as they were all 27mm bore carbs except someone had fitted rain hat ticklers to the L15 carb.
I haven’t done anything with the 3 lose carbs, do you want me to repair them?
I can supply 3 x re-sleeved Teflon coated 3 ½ slides for this set but it would have to be done first.
Fit new Rain Hat Ticklers.
Re-surface the carby bowl gasket face and manifold faces.
Bead blast all and remove and fit 3 x new 11/32” welch plugs to the mixing chamber.
Chase all threads and true up carby bodies.
Could be another $200.00 + or so, as I don’t have a firm price on the Teflon Coating, as I’ve only played with this surface treatment and wasn’t charged back then.
Let me know please.
