The gearbox clutch operating lever improved

This is my second design of clutch operating lever to help ease the operation of the clutch and help prevent clutch cable breakages. I have found the standard operating lever holds the cable nipple far too rigidly thus flexing the wire and eventually breaking it. Plus the cable entry hole into the gearbox outer cover is nowhere in line with the path the lever follows, also adding to the cable flexing...

The few cables I've had break went at the handlebar lever end.

Ian

Nortoniggy said:

The few cables I've had break went at the handlebar lever end.

Ian

Click to expand...

Same here have never had the cable break at the gearbox end in 42 years of ownership, have broke a few at the handle bar end but that was a very long time ago now as now I put a dab of grease at the handle bar end where the cable slides through the handle bar ajuster and around the end of the cable, a little bit of grease stops the cable from rubbing dry on the sharp edges.
It also sounds like the clutch cable arm in the gearbox is not in line with the cable hole, I also put a dab of grease on the cable that goes through that hole, since putting gease at the ends I haven't replace a cable in over 35 years, it all about maintenance and making things slide smoothly same as lubing the cables, even with moden cables I still put grease on the end, I even do it on my late model Triumph and my dirt bikes and fresh grease when doing regular servicing, you don't need to use much but it goes a long way.

Ashley

Sounds like you need to loosen the collar inside the gearbox to realign the clutch mechanism as Ashman points out.
Regards Mike

Nortoniggy said:

The few cables I've had break went at the handlebar lever end.

Ian

Click to expand...

+1

I like the upgrade idea, just because it's an upgrade.

My Venhill failed in the gearbox, and it was properly aligned. Don't forget to lay the bike on it's right side occasionally....

I like your idea a lot. Anything that reduces drag/friction will promote smoother operation and longer component life. I respect the purists and agree that with proper lever/cover alignment and a bit of grease a clutch cable should live a good long life.

Cheers to innovation!

+1
Probably not absolutely necessary, but looks like a good innovation. Thanks for sharing.

In cases of us less competent less equipped ordinary owners with obsolete Norton parts if ya break a cable, Wesley took a spark plug nipple cap off, bored hole in side with pocket knife so enough cable strands could pass through to bend over and trap when cap screwed onto cable to reinstall in lever hole. Was fascinating watching. Noticed it was still there a couple years of freq use before died last Jan. Its possible to ride and shift w/o clutch I found but tests competency skills and bravery. Thinking a head cheap skates carry a cable end repair kit. Main trick of clutch ease is getting stack height just so the diaphram retainer circlip ring just barely clears its notch against clutch plate stack to install. Smart owners measure whole stack 1st, us slackard lazy ones go by trial/error feel then might measure. Usually different thickness pressure plated required. Eat ya heart out Ludwig Ms Peel had two thicknesses of these machined out of lighter mass Alu.

Can also grind a bit off end of slot of ball pviot lever to get cable end on/off easier but not difficult as is. With near ideal stack thickness, only need to back off rod adjuster ~1/8th-ish turn for more lever pull efficiency sooner. Should feel like a compound bow - stronger strain at first grip but once pulled fully distinctly less to hold. Some even grease cable ends sheeze.

I changed over to a hydraulic clutch actuator. Never go back. Maybe not for the purist but for me, a no brainer

jug