CLutch Operating Lever

Status
Not open for further replies.
olympus

olympus

Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
1,401
Country flag
Hi Guys
My clutch operating lever has two holes drilled and indeed the drawing on AN webpage also shows two holes... but when you make the photo of the part full size, the part has no holes at all.... do these levers fail from these drillings or were they used for something on another model??
 
These clutch arms? or on the handle bars
CLutch Operating Lever

The two holes are very likely to orient and hold the blank for the grinding process for the 1/2" ball bearing pocket (rotation center), and the roller on the other side (back of the rabbit shape). I can see no further functional use of the two holes.
A new manufacturing technique by AN may be responsible for not needing the orientation holes.
I discovered on a persons commando arm, a bit of manufactured inaccuracy caused a very significant hard pulling clutch.
I converted it into an atlas ramp which transformed it into a effortless two finger clutch, with no change to the stack height.
The new AN arm looks like it might be sintered powder metal and could be quite accurate without further grinding. Then I wonder how brittle it might be?
 
Last edited:
so which one has the best curve? I have an Atlas that is a real bear to pull in the clutch lever
 
Has any one purchased a lever from AN?? and can provide feedback on handlebar lever weight, original clutch arm (internal) against the new one obtained ??

Surely removing only a few millimetres of material off the arm will have an affect on the overall Lift height??.. I get the theory of reducing the ramp angle but material has been removed from the very top of the ramp?

Thanks
 
olympus said:
My clutch operating lever has two holes drilled and indeed the drawing on AN webpage also shows two holes... but when you make the photo of the part full size, the part has no holes at all....
Click to expand...

But the AN Atlas/Dominator one does, however, I'm not suggesting yours is that type as it might be older stock and the holes were there to locate the part for machining/grinding as dynodave suggested.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15042/clutch-operating-lever-atlas-dommi
 
Looking at the above pictures, the ramp on the Atlas/Dommi lever has a shallower angle. but with the top of the ramp height reduced.. has this lever been used on the commando and what are the results?

Thanks
 
As I said earlier in post #2:
1. I converted it into an atlas ramp which transformed it into a effortless two finger clutch, with no change to the stack height.
2. another project:
I was helping a guy (Ziggy rip) from western Pennsylvania that had bought and installed a QPD belt drive/clutch. QPD provided NO useful support or help with their product. However contributing to the problem was a seemingly out of spec commando clutch actuator lever that made it about 1/3 harder to pull than correct stock part. Modifying the nonstandard item into the Atlas ramp finished the cure on this non standard QPD diaphragm clutch.

TOP SECRET NO FOREIGN dissemination
oops its also in the INOA tech digest page 2-15 Sept 1999:D
CLutch Operating Lever




seattle##gs said:
so which one has the best curve? I have an Atlas that is a real bear to pull in the clutch lever
Click to expand...
This should really be addressed in the "other Norton" section as it is not a commando diaphragm clutch/question.
 
Last edited:
I wonder now... many years after the commando was designed and released for sale if the commando release lever was originally designed in an attempt to cover up the less than ideal performance of the original clutch. The clutch plates evolved with three different designs through out the commando series.
It had long been declared by some??? that the atlas lever would not function with the commando diaphragm.

In actual use with a noncontaminated clutch the atlas lift is way more than adequate to operate a commando diaphragm clutch. From full grip to release is accomplished in only about .010" of push rod movement.
 
Bit of advice gents..
Fitted the correct commando G/Box outer cover today, after re-angling the lever arm fulcrum
Made sure the ball bearing was fitted and fitted an Atlas operating arm, cover on, fitted the cable... but i just have excessive inner cable.
Screwed the clutch centre adjuster right in so the arm is almost touching the inside of the cover. but still have excessive inner cable at the bars
I have a 46" AN cable & lever adjuster fitted.
I read that on earlier models an adjuster was fitted between the cable & gearbox cover.. and I'm wondering with the An
Atlas operating lever, does this adjuster need to be fitted??

Thank you
 
With the correct cover fitted, should the operating arm touch the inside o the cover in the fully backed off position.....as mine does???
Even with the cable installed I have to wind the handlebar adjuster almost fully out to get anything like a full lever pull...something is missing or seriously wrong
your assistance would be appreciated

Thank you
 
Last edited:
olympus said:
With the correct cover fitted, should the operating arm touch the inside o the cover in the fully backed off position.....as mine does???
Even hear with the cable installed I have to wind the handlebar adjuster almost fully out to get anything like a full lever pull...something is missing or seriously wrong
your assistance would be appreciated

Thank you
Click to expand...

It comes close but should absolutely not touch,
 
Thanks Les. So with the lever in this position does your clutch cable have an adjuster in the gearbo x cover...
I thought it might be the cable, but bother the original 51" and a 48" I have show exactly the same inner cable at the bars. And having to wind the bar adjuster almost fully out just isn't right
That what makes me think it needs and adjuster or a top hat spacer turned up and slip over the inner cable at the gearbox .......but why?..

Thanks
 
olympus said:
So with the lever in this position does your clutch cable have an adjuster in the gearbo x cover...
Click to expand...

No.
CLutch Operating Lever


olympus said:
I thought it might be the cable, but bother the original 51" and a 48" I have show exactly the same inner cable at the bars. And having to wind the bar adjuster almost fully out just isn't right
Click to expand...


Mine is screwed out about 5/16" Edit: 5/32". (Cable is Venhill)
CLutch Operating Lever
 
Last edited:
I'm struggling as my operating arm Sits lower than yours yet I have excess cable at the bars... I have purchased AN cables, but it's pointing to these being the issue
 
With the cable on the bench and the inner pulled so that the pear nipple is touching the outer cable. The measured distance from the outer cable end at the handle bar end to the centre of the barrel nipple is 94mm
The overall length of the inner cable (Pear nipple end to centre of barrel nipple) is 50 5/8 "
 
Last edited:
olympus said:
With the cable on the bench and the inner pulled so that the pear nipple is touching the outer cable. The measured distance from the outer cable end at the handlebar end to the centre of the barrel nipple is 94mm
Click to expand...

My cable measures approx. 82mm (approx. 78mm cable 'free length').
Edit:
Note it isn't laid out straight so could be a few mm longer.
Another old cable I have measures about 94mm.

CLutch Operating Lever
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top