Thanks to Jim...

robs ss

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Just drained the oil as part of my 9500 mile service.
All looks good - I have been using the best oil in Jim's oil scar test - Royal Purple HPS 10W40 every 2000 miles since the run-in oil.The drained oil looked darker (obviously) but felt and looked up for more mileage.
I thought I'd share a shot of the parts of my large sump strainer/plug.
Parts have only been spray washed with brake cleaner.
I subsequently removed the magnet for a wipe/clean - almost nothing there. The odd colours of the copper washer is because I'd already annealed it.
Thanks Jim! (@comnoz )
Cheers
Sump Screen 19 Mar 2023.JPG
 
Obviously that’s good. And I don’t want to start another ‘oil thread’ but…

If you look at the friction / heat aspects as well as the load, using Jim’s own data, I’d argue that the Royal Purple HPS 20W50 is a better overall choice:

4FEA35F1-C843-4A7E-9788-1F789118357B.png
 
Just drained the oil as part of my 9500 mile service.
All looks good - I have been using the best oil in Jim's oil scar test - Royal Purple HPS 10W40 every 2000 miles since the run-in oil.The drained oil looked darker (obviously) but felt and looked up for more mileage.
I thought I'd share a shot of the parts of my large sump strainer/plug.
Parts have only been spray washed with brake cleaner.
I subsequently removed the magnet for a wipe/clean - almost nothing there. The odd colours of the copper washer is because I'd already annealed it.
Thanks Jim! (@comnoz )
CheersView attachment 104841
Rob,
That’s always a good feeling when you look at your drains and there is nothing there!What breather set-up are you using?
Thanks,Mike
 
Rob,
That’s always a good feeling when you look at your drains and there is nothing there!What breather set-up are you using?
Thanks,Mike
Matt's CNW (Comstock) reed block mounted on the back of the crankcase.
 
Obviously that’s good. And I don’t want to start another ‘oil thread’ but…

If you look at the friction / heat aspects as well as the load, using Jim’s own data, I’d argue that the Royal Purple HPS 20W50 is a better overall choice:

View attachment 104844
Yep - I'd have to agree.
There's a lot of data to absorb isn't there?
Cheers
 
Just drained the oil as part of my 9500 mile service.
All looks good - I have been using the best oil in Jim's oil scar test - Royal Purple HPS 10W40 every 2000 miles since the run-in oil.The drained oil looked darker (obviously) but felt and looked up for more mileage.
I thought I'd share a shot of the parts of my large sump strainer/plug.
Parts have only been spray washed with brake cleaner.
I subsequently removed the magnet for a wipe/clean - almost nothing there. The odd colours of the copper washer is because I'd already annealed it.
Thanks Jim! (@comnoz )
CheersView attachment 104841
🔬👀
 
Lots of good choices in those lists.
As Nigel stated, the Royal Purple 20/50 is about top of heap.
Since the testing was done, Castrol in the US has come out with a ZDDP boosted oil for flat tappet engines.
It is labeled Castrol GTX Classic. It is available at Walmart in the US at $25 for 5 quarts.
The chemical composition is very similar to the UK Castrol Classic XL which is not readily available in North America.
Castrol Classic XL tested very well.

Glen
 
Just drained the oil as part of my 9500 mile service.
All looks good - I have been using the best oil in Jim's oil scar test - Royal Purple HPS 10W40 every 2000 miles since the run-in oil.The drained oil looked darker (obviously) but felt and looked up for more mileage.
I thought I'd share a shot of the parts of my large sump strainer/plug.
Parts have only been spray washed with brake cleaner.
I subsequently removed the magnet for a wipe/clean - almost nothing there. The odd colours of the copper washer is because I'd already annealed it.
Thanks Jim! (@comnoz )
CheersView attachment 104841
What was your reasoning/thoughts to choose/use RP HPR 10/40 instead of HPR 20/50 for use in a climate with reasonably high ambient air temperatures ?
 
Lots of good choices in those lists.
As Nigel stated, the Royal Purple 20/50 is about top of heap.
Since the testing was done, Castrol in the US has come out with a ZDDP boosted oil for flat tappet engines.
It is labeled Castrol GTX Classic. It is available at Walmart in the US at $25 for 5 quarts.
The chemical composition is very similar to the UK Castrol Classic XL which is not readily available in North America.
Castrol Classic XL tested very well.

Glen
@comstock Jim, can you do one more test?
 
At the INOA Rally in Asheville, I got to talk with John Favell about the 850 Norton. He said to use Mobile 1 20-50 V Twin. 60,000 + miles on the top end of my '75 and counting using the Mobile 1.
 
At the INOA Rally in Asheville, I got to talk with John Favell about the 850 Norton. He said to use Mobile 1 20-50 V Twin. 60,000 + miles on the top end of my '75 and counting using the Mobile 1.
Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50 synthetic was included in Comnoz’ oil evaluation and was found to be a suitable Norton engine oil, but far removed from the Royal Purple HPS in terms of ultimate load carrying capacity.

https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php

Stage 1 Norton Engine Oils.jpg
 
Mobil 1 V Twin 20W-50 synthetic was included in Comnoz’ oil evaluation and was found to be a suitable Norton engine oil, but far removed from the Royal Purple HPS in terms of ultimate load carrying capacity.

https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php

View attachment 104864
Pardon my lack of knowledge on this subject. The higher the LCC number the greater resistance wear and it provides less friction on the metal surfaces? The Heat from Friction number, lower is better?

Thanks
 
Pardon my lack of knowledge on this subject. The higher the LCC number the greater resistance wear and it provides less friction on the metal surfaces? The Heat from Friction number, lower is better?

Thanks
Yes, you are correct, the “load carrying capacity” reports the load required to fail in the test, with higher being better. Regarding “heat from friction”, in an air-cooled engine the lower the better.

An excellent introduction to the subject and the test method used to characterize the oils is found in the following video.



All of the oil test results are found at the link below, where tested oils are ranked/rated and broken out into 5 major categories. Read the introduction at the outset of this page for an explanation of all the parameters employed in characterizing oil performance.

https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php
 
Yes, you are correct, the “load carrying capacity” reports the load required to fail in the test, with higher being better. Regarding “heat from friction”, in an air-cooled engine the lower the better.

An excellent introduction to the subject and the test method used to characterize the oils is found in the following video.



All of the oil test results are found at the link below, where tested oils are ranked/rated and broken out into 5 major categories. Read the introduction at the outset of this page for an explanation of all the parameters employed in characterizing oil performance.

https://www.accessnorton.com/Oil-Tests/NortonOil.php

Thank you, I wii check this out. I will be changing oil soon, in the middle of finding a new sprag for my '75.
 
Do you run an oil filter? Belt and braces is to cut the bottom off the filter with a pipe cutter ( or deft work with a die grinder)
lay out the paper and examine, with a clean magnet, for particles. The old saw from airplane fixin' days was a mesh filter only gets
things big enough to have a part number.
 
Yes, my '75 has a filter. I will check the inside. I also put a filter kit on my '68 when I did an engine rebuild.
 
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