T160 no sta

I’ve stripped the switch down again and there’s problems with the contacts being so corroded, I’ve cleaned them as best I can but I need to go in there again.

I neglected to mention I did bridge the ballast with a wire to the -ve eliminating the switchgear, it worked.

So now with the switchgear almost working, it now starts and runs. But isn’t charging! 12.4v at 3000rpm only.

anyway, enjoy
 
Flatspot said:
I’ve stripped the switch down again and there’s problems with the contacts being so corroded, I’ve cleaned them as best I can but I need to go in there again.
Click to expand...

The switch cluster plug pins and sockets can also be the cause of ignition problems if not in perfect condition.
T160 no sta
 
I’m confident the plugs and sockets are OK as the switchgear issues manifests itself when wiggling the red paddle, and as I say the internal contacts are corroded.

As the brake light switch internals is u/s I’d think a Commando r/h switchgear will be useable after making suitable adjustments to the wiring plugs.
 
I mentioned it’s not charging. If I disconnect the 2 alternator wires and connect them both to my meter and t’other end to earth will that give me a clue?
 
Flatspot said:
If I disconnect the 2 alternator wires and connect them both to my meter and t’other end to earth will that give me a clue?
Click to expand...

If I understand correctly that would be testing if the stator is shorting to earth (engine not running).
That won't give you any indication if the stator is producing power or not (assuming it passes the short-to-earth test).
 
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I meant when the engine is running, so that if it is making power then there maybe a rectifier problem.
 
Flatspot said:
I meant when the engine is running, so that if it is making power then there maybe a rectifier problem.
Click to expand...

The stator has no earth/ground connection so a test to earth with the two output wires connected won't indicate output.
The test needs to be made between the two stator output wires. If the wires are connected then they will cancel each other out because they are opposite ends of the same wire.

Section H5, B.
 
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OK, yet another question. The ‘dash’ panel housing the warning lights shows
turn
neutral
high beam
ignition - this is the red one on the right of the ignition switch - this is staying illuminated.

the same on mine shows
turn
neutral
high beam
oil - red one on the right of the ignition switch

So is the decal correct and it is showing not charging, or is it incorrect and there’s no oil pressure? I can see an oil pressure switch under the engine so now I’m a tad confused. Referring to my workshop manual only shows an oil pressure version.
 
Mine is oil pressure light on the right
I thought they all were?
 

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Flatspot said:
OK, yet another question. The ‘dash’ panel housing the warning lights shows
turn
neutral
high beam
ignition - this is the red one on the right of the ignition switch - this is staying illuminated.
Click to expand...

That's the normal type. Red "Ignition" is oil pressure, not charge warning.
Flatspot said:
the same on mine shows
turn
neutral
high beam
oil - red one on the right of the ignition switch
Click to expand...

That's the late type and probably not original on yours.
This type normally has "Ignition" below the switch and "Off" above.
 
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I'd check the oil pressure switch and I wouldn't run it before you go any further
A mate of mine left his t150v for around a year
When he came to start it he put it on his starter rollers with the plugs out and spun it over and there was zero oil pressure!!
He drained and refilled the oil etc and there's still no pressure
He never did resolve the problem
It's still sitting under a dust sheet until he gets time to investigate
 
Flatspot said:
I mentioned it’s not charging. If I disconnect the 2 alternator wires and connect them both to my meter and t’other end to earth will that give me a clue?
Click to expand...
A really basic test and I hesitate to mention it
Is when the engine is running just give the two alternator wires a crack across the engine case both together
If they spark the alternator is good
Yep I know it's bad advice but I've done it quite a few times without causing harm
 
baz said:
A really basic test and I hesitate to mention it
Is when the engine is running just give the two alternator wires a crack across the engine case both together
If they spark the alternator is good
Yep I know it's bad advice but I've done it quite a few times without causing harm
Click to expand...
I’m positive I’ve seen it somewhere in the distant past to do something similar, but so long ago I may have imagined it.
 
The more time I’m spending on this damned bike doing a ‘simple’ refresh/recommission the more pee’d off I’m getting with it.

oh, and the bloody reserve tap has started leaking! Sod it, I’ll just put a new pair on just in case t’other starts to do the same.

At least when I bought mine last year I decided it was prudent to fit a pressure gauge.
 
Flatspot said:
The more time I’m spending on this damned bike doing a ‘simple’ refresh/recommission the more pee’d off I’m getting with it.

oh, and the bloody reserve tap has started leaking! Sod it, I’ll just put a new pair on just in case t’other starts to do the same.

At least when I bought mine last year I decided it was prudent to fit a pressure gauge.
Click to expand...
Sometimes those taps heal themselves
 
baz said:
A really basic test and I hesitate to mention it
Is when the engine is running just give the two alternator wires a crack across the engine case both together
If they spark the alternator is good
Click to expand...

Or, a known good headlamp bulb (a higher-wattage bulb is less likely to blow) connected between the stator wires should light up but don't rev the engine or it may (probably will) blow.
 
L.A.B. said:
Or, a known good headlamp bulb (a higher-wattage bulb is less likely to blow) connected between the stator wires should light up but don't rev the engine or it may (probably will) blow.
Click to expand...
But couldn’t my idea of putting the avo meter inline work?
 
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