Swapping calipher to opposite side

Hi Guys,
I once read somewhere that swapping the front brake calipher to the opposite side can help (if you have a bike that pulls to one side). Someone told me where the article was located, I believe it was in the Norton Tech Digest, but, I just can't seem to find it. If anyone knows where that article is I'd appreciate the info.

thanks in advance,
GB

geo46er said:

If anyone knows where that article is I'd appreciate the info.

Click to expand...

I take it that by saying "the opposite side" you mean changing the caliper/disc from the right side to the left?

It's a fairly straightforward job anyway, basically the fork legs are dropped from the yokes and the complete legs swapped over, (after all that's what the Norton factory did) the tyre turned around on the rim for correct front tyre rotation, and the mudguard refitted the correct way around although the standard 'front' stay cannot be used, and a longer brake line will probably be needed.

If the wheel hub is the pre-MkIII type then it is important that the bearing lock ring is secured (at least by Loctite etc.) so that it cannot be loosened as the hub will now be rotating in the opposite direction once turned around, this rotational change can cause the lockring to loosen off.
The MkIII hub/wheel can be fitted either way as the bearing is retained by a circlip instead of a threaded lock ring. The spoke arrangement is also different on the MkIII (L/H brake) wheels compared to the earlier type, although reversing either type wheel doesn't appear to cause any problems.

If your bike is pulling to one side, doesn't that indicate a problem independent of rotor/caliper location?

geo46er said:

Hi Guys,
I once read somewhere that swapping the front brake calipher to the opposite side can help (if you have a bike that pulls to one side). Someone told me where the article was located, I believe it was in the Norton Tech Digest, but, I just can't seem to find it. If anyone knows where that article is I'd appreciate the info.

thanks in advance,
GB

Click to expand...

pull to side

Hi Tpeever,
Yes, all the other factors causing a pull to one side have also been taken into consideration. The article suggests that swapping the calipher addresses the problem, which evidently some bikes suffer from??? I figuere hey I'll give it a try, The problem is very slight, the handle bars want to turn right, which of course makes the bike want to veer left. The machine is perfectly ridable, but, it is this little nagging thing that I have wanted to address. Playing with rear wheel alingment has NO effect, I have also installed a tie-rod headsteady, with which I have insured that the engine/cradle/rear wheel are in a plane perpendicular to the frame loop. That helped somewhat, but, I want it perfect. If you have read the article about, "the worlds straightest norton" (one of jerry's links pages)
you'll see that some people have gone to great lengths to get their bikes the way they want them, (I assure you that I won't go that far).

GB

Mine does the same, bars point very slightly right and pull bike to the left kerb (on our side of the road that is). It won't steer hands off but I've lived with it for 8 years. Re-aligning the back wheel so it pointed right was effective but by then it was so far out on the adjusters I figured that couldn't be right plus worse chain alignment etc.
I thought about the disc brake theory but haven't tried it since there are plenty of RH disc Commandos out there which don't pull one way or t'other.
But (and this may have no bearing on your bike) during my ISO setup with bare cases I found the front mount had to be forced to the left against the rear rubbers to get it in between the frame tabs. I established the rear tabs were square so I discounted the possibility that was the problem. Of course the front rails and tabs could be offset to the right giving same effect but it was only when I measured the ISO offsets I found the front was .046" greater than the rear, pretty much the amount it had to be moved over to locate between the tabs. When you're re-installing an engine you get used to a little bit of pushing and shoving to get the front mount in place and minor misalignment doesn't show up.
What I'm getting to (and I may be partly, or totally wrong) is that in my case not only are the ISO's under torsional stress, screwing up the clearances but affecting cradle & swingarm alignment. The front ISO is more rigid (it's short) but the leverage between the rear and front allows assembly but leaves the swingarm misaligned!
This could all be just a lot of b*****ks and the more I think about it the more it may. Still I can't get away from the idea that of the 046" misalign at the front not all of it will reach the swingarm side plates (rear ISO rubbers resisting twist) but whatever does will be appx x 2 at the rear wheel axle.
Someone tell me I'm either on the right track or heading for certification.
Whatever, I have the same problem as geo46. Bet he's confused now! Cheers.

Thanks Ludwig. Sometimes I overcomplicate problems and reach conclusions that are not valid.
For sure I understand the importance of both wheels being inline but my question concerns the amount (1.2mm) I have to move the cases and front ISO to the left on assembly.....just how much of that is transferred to the rear axle? My basic maths tells me it could be 2.4 max but some of that might be absorbed by bending of the engine cradle. So, not only is wheel offset affected, the whole cradle/swingarm assy is twisted around the perfect wheel centreline.
Of course I really need to measure it but my ISO mounts are away awaiting squaring of the faces and removal of that extra offset on the front.
The other problem I found is the rear wheel offset in the swingarm was only 3mm when it should be 6.3. That was a professionally built wheel 7 yrs ago but I should have checked it.

That's why the parts are away for machining as well as squaring of the end faces to achieve more consistent clearance around the end caps. Thanks again. Will report back if and when I get it right.

old thread

Hi Guys,
I found the old thread, it is on page 25 with a letter posted by Geoff on Sept 4, 05 "Commando puling to the left". There are those who reported a similar left pull and someone who had done the calipher swap.

GB