Shrapnel in Sump

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I drill mine out on a simple old (and I mean old) pillar drill. Not had any disasters thus far.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
I drill mine out on a simple old (and I mean old) pillar drill. Not had any disasters thus far.
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Glad it works for you. I won't try it again. I probably shouldn't have used a new sharp bit. The bit grabbed and as it tore its way through it separated the layers of metal filling them with swarf. If I ever can't find another way, I'll either ream or use a fine round file carefully.
 
BERT said:
Nice centerfinder.
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Well spotted... Starrett USA. :)

I remember as an apprentice (Boilermaker) drilling a hole (perhaps in copper or similar) using a small table vice with a long cylindrical handle you used to tighten it and could hold on to.
Something went wrong and it (the vice and part) was spinning around with the stuck drill, I remember tying to retract the drill (turning the motor off would have been the better option) and the vice lifted also then dropped off the drill and took off (at 11:00 O clock luckily) landing 10 or more feet away.

I had left by then but one guy in my same start year (1976) was asked by a welder to drill the lug on a long welding cable to a bigger hole size. (on the bank of large radial arm drills)
The short story I was told was the drill caught (soft metals are like that) and somehow he ended up on the table getting dragged around and was lucky enough to only suffer abrasions, a broken leg and all but his overalls ripped off.
 
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UPDATE:
First startup following new stator/rotor work. All seems great. Getting a nice green light off my SparkBright charge-warning LED at 1k rpm idle, slightly higher rpm if lamps on. Previous OEM stator needed over 2k rpm before lamp went green.
Can't test ride just yet as we're having below freezing weather, roads have icy patches and/or heavy salting at this time. Supposed to be getting some rain days shortly to wash it all away.
 
Tornado said:
UPDATE:
First startup following new stator/rotor work. All seems great. Getting a nice green light off my SparkBright charge-warning LED at 1k rpm idle, slightly higher rpm if lamps on. Previous OEM stator needed over 2k rpm before lamp went green.
Can't test ride just yet as we're having below freezing weather, roads have icy patches and/or heavy salting at this time. Supposed to be getting some rain days shortly to wash it all away.
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" some rainy days shortly " ?? March , April & May ;)
 
Ron Hulton said:
" some rainy days shortly " ?? March , April & May ;)
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Actually, tomorrow night and first few days next week. If it wasn't for the salt out there right now I'd probably take her out! Been an unscratchable itching since last October!
 
I managed to get out for rides every month last fall and thru the winter. Compared to the rest of Canada and a big chunk of the US, on the west coast we live in Lala Land when it comes to Winter.
I only go out when temps get to around 50f or above, dry roads, no salt.

Glen
 
First test ride since getting primary all back on.
Noticed a new noise, varying with wheel spin speed. Stopped up and seems to be from chain master link scrapping inner primary. Some flecks of alu on the master link pins. The bike had the ML fitted to inner side when I acquired it years ago. The workshop has placed it on outside of run now. Any draw back to changing it back in inner side?
 
Tornado said:
First test ride since getting primary all back on.
Noticed a new noise, varying with wheel spin speed. Stopped up and seems to be from chain master link scrapping inner primary. Some flecks of alu on the master link pins. The bike had the ML fitted to inner side when I acquired it years ago. The workshop has placed it on outside of run now. Any draw back to changing it back in inner side?
Click to expand...
You can just face the link the other way
Or better still get rid of the link
 
Tornado said:
First test ride since getting primary all back on.
Noticed a new noise, varying with wheel spin speed. Stopped up and seems to be from chain master link scrapping inner primary. Some flecks of alu on the master link pins. The bike had the ML fitted to inner side when I acquired it years ago. The workshop has placed it on outside of run now. Any draw back to changing it back in inner side?
Click to expand...
Only downside to fitting the master link with the clip inboard is that it's slightly more difficult to install and remove. Just make sure that the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation. Are you using 530 or O-ring chain?
 
chaztuna said:
Only downside to fitting the master link with the clip inboard is that it's slightly more difficult to install and remove. Just make sure that the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation. Are you using 530 or O-ring chain?
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Pretty sure it is non-oring 530, was on bike when I bought 4 yrs ago and in pretty good condition.
Will flip the link today and put a vernier to use to confirm sizing.
 
Often, mostly on 850s. the inner chaincase will rub on the swing arm and the master link will hit the inner chaincase sealing disc. Besides properly shimming the inner chaincase center stud, I use two gaskets up front between the inner chaincase and engine. That keeps the inner chaincase off the swingarm and gives a little more clearance for the master link.

The master link can hit the gearbox or inner chaincase sealing disc so check what is actually being hit and make sure that reversing the master link fixes it.
 
Master link seemed to have most alu bits on it at the pins, and the scuffing sound was sort of what to expect from one point on chain run rubbing.
Link flipped to inside of chain. Will see how it goes now.

Took a measure across the regular pins to get 0.807". I have a new DID 530 chain that measures 0.795" across pins. The installed chain is marked H-D, so either Harley Davidson or heavy duty I guess? Coincidentally, the bike was apparently "restored/refreshed" in the '90s by an HD dealer.
 
Tornado said:
Master link seemed to have most alu bits on it at the pins, and the scuffing sound was sort of what to expect from one point on chain run rubbing.
Link flipped to inside of chain. Will see how it goes now.

Took a measure across the regular pins to get 0.807". I have a new DID 530 chain that measures 0.795" across pins. The installed chain is marked H-D, so either Harley Davidson or heavy duty I guess? Coincidentally, the bike was apparently "restored/refreshed" in the '90s by an HD dealer.
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There is quite a bit more info here: https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Chains.aspx
 
Ok the obvious scuffing with wheel speed seems to now be gone.
Bike is running pretty well. Was having some rough gear shifts and couple of false neutrals. Took some slack out of cable and seems better now.

Hooked up my CarbTune vacuum tubes to inlet mani ports and was easy to see there was imbalance, left side giving fair bit more vacuum than right at off idle rpms (2-3k). A quick fiddle with cable adjustments on carb top got both sides near identical.

ISO's need some adjusting as quite a vib sets in just over 3k. The rears were renewed, front was done by me few yrs ago. Headsteady is Dave Taylor with spring suspensory so may take some tweaking.

New issue popped up during test ride, indicator lamps all went out, so is horn. Headlight, Brake and tail all ok. All were working until sometime into ride (cept may horn, not sure I tested it since getting bike back from shop). At home I can hear a single click on the aftermarket modern flasher relay when hitting the bar switch. Could the indicators out be due to failed warning lamp bulb? It is original incandescent so well past best before date/
could have popped. Guess I'll need to pull tank to access connectors for troubleshooting. Harness is new cloth wrapped.
 
Tornado said:
Ok the obvious scuffing with wheel speed seems to now be gone.
Bike is running pretty well. Was having some rough gear shifts and couple of false neutrals. Took some slack out of cable and seems better now.

Hooked up my CarbTune vacuum tubes to inlet mani ports and was easy to see there was imbalance, left side giving fair bit more vacuum than right at off idle rpms (2-3k). A quick fiddle with cable adjustments on carb top got both sides near identical.

ISO's need some adjusting as quite a vib sets in just over 3k. The rears were renewed, front was done by me few yrs ago. Headsteady is Dave Taylor with spring suspensory so may take some tweaking.

New issue popped up during test ride, indicator lamps all went out, so is horn. Headlight, Brake and tail all ok. All were working until sometime into ride (cept may horn, not sure I tested it since getting bike back from shop). At home I can hear a single click on the aftermarket modern flasher relay when hitting the bar switch. Could the indicators out be due to failed warning lamp bulb? It is original incandescent so well past best before date/
could have popped. Guess I'll need to pull tank to access connectors for troubleshooting. Harness is new cloth wrapped.
Click to expand...
If your "modern" flasher has more than two wires then you'll need to say a lot more about how you're wired for someone to help you. Otherwise:

It clicks and does no more most likely due to low load - most likely no ground.

To test the flasher, pull both wires and connect them together the try the handlebar switch. The front and rear light on the side you select should come on.

If not, to test ground, turn one side turn signals on and run a jumper write from the battery positive (assumes still positive gorund) or a red wire to the stem of one of that side's turn signals. If no joy try the other on that side.
 
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Tornado said:
Master link seemed to have most alu bits on it at the pins, and the scuffing sound was sort of what to expect from one point on chain run rubbing.
Link flipped to inside of chain. Will see how it goes now.

Took a measure across the regular pins to get 0.807". I have a new DID 530 chain that measures 0.795" across pins. The installed chain is marked H-D, so either Harley Davidson or heavy duty I guess? Coincidentally, the bike was apparently "restored/refreshed" in the '90s by an HD dealer.
Click to expand...
Did the new chain resolve the scraping?
 
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