Fast Eddie
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- Joined
- Oct 4, 2013
- Messages
- 20,696
I drill mine out on a simple old (and I mean old) pillar drill. Not had any disasters thus far.
Glad it works for you. I won't try it again. I probably shouldn't have used a new sharp bit. The bit grabbed and as it tore its way through it separated the layers of metal filling them with swarf. If I ever can't find another way, I'll either ream or use a fine round file carefully.I drill mine out on a simple old (and I mean old) pillar drill. Not had any disasters thus far.
Nice centerfinder.
Nice centerfinder.
Athol, MA.Well spotted... Starrett USA.
" some rainy days shortly " ?? March , April & MayUPDATE:
First startup following new stator/rotor work. All seems great. Getting a nice green light off my SparkBright charge-warning LED at 1k rpm idle, slightly higher rpm if lamps on. Previous OEM stator needed over 2k rpm before lamp went green.
Can't test ride just yet as we're having below freezing weather, roads have icy patches and/or heavy salting at this time. Supposed to be getting some rain days shortly to wash it all away.
Actually, tomorrow night and first few days next week. If it wasn't for the salt out there right now I'd probably take her out! Been an unscratchable itching since last October!" some rainy days shortly " ?? March , April & May
You can just face the link the other wayFirst test ride since getting primary all back on.
Noticed a new noise, varying with wheel spin speed. Stopped up and seems to be from chain master link scrapping inner primary. Some flecks of alu on the master link pins. The bike had the ML fitted to inner side when I acquired it years ago. The workshop has placed it on outside of run now. Any draw back to changing it back in inner side?
Only downside to fitting the master link with the clip inboard is that it's slightly more difficult to install and remove. Just make sure that the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation. Are you using 530 or O-ring chain?First test ride since getting primary all back on.
Noticed a new noise, varying with wheel spin speed. Stopped up and seems to be from chain master link scrapping inner primary. Some flecks of alu on the master link pins. The bike had the ML fitted to inner side when I acquired it years ago. The workshop has placed it on outside of run now. Any draw back to changing it back in inner side?
Pretty sure it is non-oring 530, was on bike when I bought 4 yrs ago and in pretty good condition.Only downside to fitting the master link with the clip inboard is that it's slightly more difficult to install and remove. Just make sure that the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation. Are you using 530 or O-ring chain?
There is quite a bit more info here: https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Chains.aspxMaster link seemed to have most alu bits on it at the pins, and the scuffing sound was sort of what to expect from one point on chain run rubbing.
Link flipped to inside of chain. Will see how it goes now.
Took a measure across the regular pins to get 0.807". I have a new DID 530 chain that measures 0.795" across pins. The installed chain is marked H-D, so either Harley Davidson or heavy duty I guess? Coincidentally, the bike was apparently "restored/refreshed" in the '90s by an HD dealer.
Could the indicators out be due to failed warning lamp bulb?
If your "modern" flasher has more than two wires then you'll need to say a lot more about how you're wired for someone to help you. Otherwise:Ok the obvious scuffing with wheel speed seems to now be gone.
Bike is running pretty well. Was having some rough gear shifts and couple of false neutrals. Took some slack out of cable and seems better now.
Hooked up my CarbTune vacuum tubes to inlet mani ports and was easy to see there was imbalance, left side giving fair bit more vacuum than right at off idle rpms (2-3k). A quick fiddle with cable adjustments on carb top got both sides near identical.
ISO's need some adjusting as quite a vib sets in just over 3k. The rears were renewed, front was done by me few yrs ago. Headsteady is Dave Taylor with spring suspensory so may take some tweaking.
New issue popped up during test ride, indicator lamps all went out, so is horn. Headlight, Brake and tail all ok. All were working until sometime into ride (cept may horn, not sure I tested it since getting bike back from shop). At home I can hear a single click on the aftermarket modern flasher relay when hitting the bar switch. Could the indicators out be due to failed warning lamp bulb? It is original incandescent so well past best before date/
could have popped. Guess I'll need to pull tank to access connectors for troubleshooting. Harness is new cloth wrapped.
Did the new chain resolve the scraping?Master link seemed to have most alu bits on it at the pins, and the scuffing sound was sort of what to expect from one point on chain run rubbing.
Link flipped to inside of chain. Will see how it goes now.
Took a measure across the regular pins to get 0.807". I have a new DID 530 chain that measures 0.795" across pins. The installed chain is marked H-D, so either Harley Davidson or heavy duty I guess? Coincidentally, the bike was apparently "restored/refreshed" in the '90s by an HD dealer.