S exhausts on mk3

Hi chaps,
As the title suggests, I quite fancy high level, two down one side exhausts on my 850 mk3 Commando. Would I be the first to try this? While the fundamental geometry hasn't changed much, are details like the exhaust port & the exhaust mounting bracket location on the S still in place on the mk3?

Anyone ploughed this furrow before?

Cheers, Jon

I haven't done it, but I saw a mk 111 a couple of years ago round by me with S type exhausts , I wouldn't think there is any unsurmountable fitting problems, just forget about carrying throw over panniers.
sam

I know the s exhaust on my 72 combat is pretty tight to the top of the primary and my mk3 primary looks bigger especially at the starter lump. Other than that I think it would work.

David Edwards, former editor in chief at Cycle World magazine had this done by Kenny Dreer. Not a MkIII, but should be the same for all 850s.

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Should be no problem to put s pipes on an 850. There's a photo of them on my 850 in the link below. If it is aMKIIII you probably want to check out primary case/electric start clearance as previously suggested. I bought the complete muffler, pipes and fittings from RGM. No major problems but they need a bit of juggling to ease in to place. They mount onto the the dog leg bracket with two standard rubber muffler mounts/bobbins. It's looked a bit light on so I added a third mount and it works fine.

new-member-t15370.html

I keep thinking about doing the same on my mk2a Jon!

Are you aware that AN now do a full kit for these? And claim that they actually fit...

Ah, that's interesting Eddie. I'll give them a ring, it would be good to buy from them as they should fit! The exhaust nut has already shaken loose on the RH of mine, I have a suspicion that the geometry of the S pipes may just reduce the loosening tendency?

Cheers, Jon.

Boxerfan said:

I have a suspicion that the geometry of the S pipes may just reduce the loosening tendency?

Cheers, Jon.

Click to expand...

I doubt it. The S pipes really need to be looked after a lot, they tend to shake loose and the dog leg bracket is a weak point too, the RGM one is not as beefy as the stock, I have both. There's a bracket that goes between the two silencers that is usually not included in after market setups. You really need to keep an eye on everything, my first ones lasted about 4K miles and by then the heat shields were gone and the bracket had a crack in it, but I wasn't very careful in those days. Young and invincible you know.

I tend to put them on and adjust as required, the space between the lower header and the primary is real close, the last set I had to bend it. I put a block of wood between the primary and header to tighten the rose nut. Seems that the upper header is always a bit short into the silencer too. I also got some clamps made by 'Moose' that hold up and tighten (Allen bolts) down much better than the stock ones which are crap. Even the omega ones won't hold up. Hobot showed some solid clamps once that looked good but I could never find them again.

The whole assembly is mounted too tight on the frame(the dog leg) and I've seen some write ups on adding more rubber mounts to keep the assembly from shaking the bracket to pieces. It will eventually crack at the bend of the dog leg.

If you need pics or info I have plenty.

But they are different.

DogT, that's interesting info. Hmmm, I'll have to weigh up the pros & cons. Did anyone make a 2:1 high level pipe to save a lot of weight?

Boxerfan said:

DogT, that's interesting info. Hmmm, I'll have to weigh up the pros & cons. Did anyone make a 2:1 high level pipe to save a lot of weight?

Click to expand...

Steve Maney does or did, I haven't visited his web site in a while though.

I think the loosening , if the pipes are aligned correctly is largely not having consietiously tightened them .

With the old copper O rings , leaning on the spanner after each ride / heat cylce , untill youve lost the slack
is essential . with someting like Copper Coat ( anti seize - pressure sealing . Copper Grafite paste ) salubriously
applied ; you coat ALL off BOTH mateing faces / threads & the O ring -therfore you get full cover - just dropping
a lump on is liable to get dry spots .

As youllve noticed , when removed post use - thje copper seals come out waffer thin after all that compressing.
You wont squeezem down like that in one sitting, after six decent runs with the spanner applied they willve
clamped up .

Giving the exhaust a kick then carefully applying the wrench with the motorcycle staedy & preferably vertical ,
steadying your lengthened arm and LEANING on it , gets it around another quater or so . All cool & calm like -
not a hysterical wriggle .

I'm not saying they won't work, it's just that they will probably need a bit more care than the Roadster pipes, but nothing that can't be handled. I've got over 1K miles on my recent set and they seem to be holding up OK, but I keep an eye out for loose parts.

Boxerfan said:

DogT, that's interesting info. Hmmm, I'll have to weigh up the pros & cons. Did anyone make a 2:1 high level pipe to save a lot of weight?

Click to expand...

Yes they do, I believe this is the Maney design as Steve no longer sells it, as you say, it will save weight, it will also give more power. You won't get those icon looks though, and your wallet will be considerably lighter. check it out at:

http://www.minnovationracing.co.uk/prod ... spx?id=233

Fast Eddie said:

Boxerfan said:

DogT, that's interesting info. Hmmm, I'll have to weigh up the pros & cons. Did anyone make a 2:1 high level pipe to save a lot of weight?

Click to expand...

Yes they do, I believe this is the Maney design as Steve no longer sells it, as you say, it will save weight, it will also give more power. You won't get those icon looks though, and your wallet will be considerably lighter. check it out at:

http://www.minnovationracing.co.uk/prod ... spx?id=233

Click to expand...

By 'eck, that lad knows how to charge!

I thought the thread title read "sexhausts" and my mind began to boggle ...