Pazon yes or no???

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Well it's running again and seem's better. I cut out some excess wiring, hooked up the zener as it was not hooked up and the battery is charging now. The meter before would bounce all over the scale. Now it holds around nearly 12 and rises with the throttle. Only time will tell when I take it for a spin tomorrow. Thanks for all the input as it did help.
 
Trispark :a wasted system for the Norton or not?

L.A.B. said:
Norvin said:
Also up for consideration is the Trispark system - more expensive , but it isnt as wasted spark system - you get a hotter spark (at idle) and less power consumption.
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The Tri-Spark now available for twins is the 'Classic Twin' ignition, and that is a wasted spark system. http://www.trispark.com.au/home/products/
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Here we have 2 opposing opinions.
Anyone know which is correct for the Classic twin/Norton application?
Cannot find on the Tri Spark site exactly which system it employs for the Commando. Thanks Teddy Boy.
 
Re: Trispark :a wasted system for the Norton or not?

I believe all of these systems are wasted spark systems
 
A problem still exist's. Now that the zener is wired the battery is charging when the bike is running as the meter goes up with the throttle. My issue now is the key switch has an off, head light and head/tail light position. If I put it in the middle the head light is on and not as bright as when it's in the head/tail light pos. I blew 2 main fuses today luckly just down the street. Any idea's what to check now?
 
The headlight position is not the main bulb but only a pilot light at lower wattage but the tail should normally be on too for parking purposes on an unlit street. Sounds like you have an intermitent short which is blowing the fuses, take a multimeter and check for low resistance between connections and ground where it should be infinity, manipulate relevant wires as you go to try and replicate the short.
 
Will look into that today. The rectifier has 4 tabs for wiring to hook too. I'm guessing the zener is hooked to the foward and middle most tab right? That is where it's hooked up at. Also Kommando this bike is wired by who know's and is no where near a stock bike. I will let you all know later on what I find.

I also wonder if I should put a fuse in the lighting somewhere? The bike only has a fuse for the main power.
 
The four tabs on a Lucas rectifier are typically:

Top - ground

Outer two - two alternator leads

Center - DC output to zener diode & battery
 
chopped850 said:
The rectifier has 4 tabs for wiring to hook too. I'm guessing the zener is hooked to the foward and middle most tab right? That is where it's hooked up at.
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Yes, the Zener connects to the middle tab of the three, although they are stepped slightly as each tab is part of a circular rectifier plate.

The fourth tab under the bolt hexagon is a harness ground wire connection, the rectifier body should already be grounded through its threaded mounting.
 
Hi Chopped,

If it were my bike I'd wire in a few fuses now, not necessarily permanent, but I use them for testing. I do like fuses in major circutis for later.
In buses and trains we have thousands of wires and if you have an intermitant short, or one that only shows up on a bump they can be hard to find.
A trip to Radio Shack and a few fuse holders for testing can be quite handy.
You isolate each circuit and install an idividual fuse, if it burns out you know where that one is. I found a worn wire on my horn circuit under the faux tank on one of my Goldwings this way last summer. It was quite irritating as three items were on the circuit and it would only blow a fuse once a month.
Once you know what circuit an intermittant short is on you can concentrate your search there. The less wired together the better.
 
Oh yeah,

Make abolutely sure you have good grounds, most truly odd stuff I find on my old bikes tend to be from bad grounds.
It may be different in other areas of the country, but here by SF Bay we get just enough salt in the air to cause problems with grounds and connectors.
 
grandpaul said:
The four tabs on a Lucas rectifier are typically:

Top - ground

Outer two - two alternator leads

Center - DC output to zener diode & battery
Click to expand...

I have the top one connected to the Negative side of the battery. Is that wrong? It's how it was when I got the bike. The other 3 tabs are correct.

Cookie I will get some fuse blocks and get each one linked.
 
Is your battery hooked up positive ground? If so all grounds should be positive.
These guys are the experts, but my bike is positive ground and all my other Nortons and British stuff was.
 
Cookie said:
Is your battery hooked up positive ground? If so all grounds should be psositive.
These guys are the experts, but my bike is positive ground and all my other Nortons and British stuff was.
Click to expand...

Yes it is and I will make sure all grounds are on the positive side and I also got a 30amp fuse link to put in.
 
That top tab is in common with the stud mount, which is ground (earth).

The top tab, as L.A.B. stated, is for the heavy ground spade terminal on the wiring harness.
 
my apologies to all - the holidays carried me away . i had stated the the trispark system was NOT a wasted spark for the twin - I am wrong - and stand corrected - it IS a wasted spark system - it DOES however draw less power at idle than the Boyer.
The Trispark is NOT a wasted spark for the triples only - which is where i made my error.
i'm not certain of the power requirements at idle of the trispark or the Pazon . i've got a pazon on a v-twin which also had a boyer and starting is much easier with the Pazon and low voltage - than the Boyer.
cheers -
marc
 
I find it easy to forgive Canadians on the holidays since you have good beer.
I'll find it interesting just how much of an improvement the newer system turns out to be. With a kick starter it does not take much to make life better.
 
Here is the mess that I'm cleaning up.

Pazon yes or no???


That is the ballast resistor under the rectifier correct? If so nothing was connected to it. The wiring page posted show's the bat neg side linked to the fuse that is linked to the resistor then to the first coil run in parallel.

Pazon yes or no???


Also want to know if the white wire from the boyer box that say's negative is tied to the IG post on the key switch. Is that correct?

Pazon yes or no???
 
That could be worse, on the risk of starting arguements here are a couple of things I use.
Acid, right from Home Depot, Behr Concrete Floor cleaner. I put contacts in it for a few minutes and it cleans them right up. After that you have to carefully wash it off and neutralize it. I use a protectant while installing the part.
I don't really care for that type of crimp connector. If I use those I pull the cover off and solder, then shrink wrap.
There are a few good solderless connectors available and sometimes I use them, self sealing is preferred.
 
Boyer units have given me 50% troubles, 50% fine service. I haven't bought one in years.
 
chopped850 said:
That is the ballast resistor under the rectifier correct? If so nothing was connected to it.
Click to expand...

No, that's the 2CP condenser pack for the original points ignition. So it should be disconnected/removed when using an electronic ignition. The ballast resistor is a white ceramic block of a similar size to the 2CP. The ballast resistor isn't required for a Boyer ignition either.

chopped850 said:
Also want to know if the white wire from the boyer box that say's negative is tied to the IG post on the key switch. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Yes that's correct for a positive earth/ground system. http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00017_.pdf
 
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