Pazon yes or no???

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The little black box etc., will be the boyer, the zener is the voltage regulator. I have done a coloured mock up of the boyer wire attachments if you would like a copy.
Robert[/quote]

That would be great. Because if there is supposed to be a wire connected to the zener then I can find it or figure out where it comes from.[/quote]

Chopper, here is the picture of the boyer diagram... I hope! If not let me know

didn't work I'll try it again

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp19 ... wiring.jpg

Robert
 
I got the link to open. I will print it out tonight at work. I'm guessing those are the coils in the middle with the +'s and -'s right. Where does it connect to the zener?

I know the finned part is not the zener but the part it is sitting on is right? If so what color wire and where from does it connect?
 
chopped850 said:
I'm guessing those are the coils in the middle with the +'s and -'s right. Where does it connect to the zener?

I know the finned part is not the zener but the part it is sitting on is right? If so what color wire and where from does it connect?
Click to expand...

See my previous two posts above, as your harness isn't standard, as long as you know what the wire is for the wiring colour doesn't really matter.
 
chopped850 said:
I got the link to open. I will print it out tonight at work. I'm guessing those are the coils in the middle with the +'s and -'s right. Where does it connect to the zener?

I know the finned part is not the zener but the part it is sitting on is right? If so what color wire and where from does it connect?[/quote

It does NOT connect to the zener, the zener, or zeners if it's a MK3, should be connected from the brown and blue wire from the rectifier, which in turn should be connected to the green and yellow and green and white from the alternator. The zener is basically there to stop the battery boiling. Yes coils are in the middle with the + & - signs.
Robert
Click to expand...
 
rbt11548 said:
should be connected from the brown and blue wire from the rectifier, which in turn should be connected to the green and yellow and green and white from the alternator.
Click to expand...

As chopped850's Commando wiring appears to be considerably non-standard I don't think he will be able to rely on any of the original wiring colours being correct.
So as I said earlier, he needs to make a connection to the wire that is itself connected to the centre spade terminal (of the three) on the rectifier?
 
L.A.B. said:
rbt11548 said:
should be connected from the brown and blue wire from the rectifier, which in turn should be connected to the green and yellow and green and white from the alternator.
Click to expand...

As chopped850's Commando wiring appears to be considerably non-standard I don't think he will be able to rely on any of the original wiring colours being correct.
So as I said earlier, he needs to make a connection to the wire that is itself connected to the centre spade terminal (of the three) on the rectifier?
Click to expand...

Yes you are correct, the wiring does seem to be all over the place, but I think he would need to make sure the connection went... battery to middle spade on rectifier, to zener then to ignition switch, he could miss out the capacitor and powerpoint.
Anyway I'm off to bed Santa is coming soon... Merry Christmas all
 
rbt11548 said:
I think he would need to make sure the connection went... battery to middle spade on rectifier, to zener then to ignition switch, he could miss out the capacitor and powerpoint.
Click to expand...

Yes, although the actual connection sequence isn't critical, - provided that they are all connected to each other.
 
So what I have gathered from you guys is the rectifier which is the round disc looking job behind the coils should have wires connected to all 3 tabs. It does.

Also there shouldn't be a wire connected to the tab on the zener because the black box is a MKIII?
 
chopped850 said:
Also there shouldn't be a wire connected to the tab on the zener because the black box is a MKIII?
Click to expand...

You MUST connect a wire from the Zener to the main battery negative wire, which should also be the wire that goes to the middle rectifier tab, otherwise the system has no voltage regulation.


The Boyer MkIII box does not act as a regulator.

I believe rbt11548 was under the impression that you thought the Zener connected to the ignition coil/s?
So he said: "It does NOT connect to the zener,...or zeners if it's a MK3",

He was not referring to the MkIII Boyer box, but by "Mk3", I'm sure he meant the Commando 850 Mk3 model which has a different charging system with two Zeners that are connected differently.

So you do need to connect the Zener as I've advised previously, if you only have a single Zener.

The alternative is to remove both the Zener and the rectifier and fit a modern voltage control box.
 
L.A.B. said:
chopped850 said:
Also there shouldn't be a wire connected to the tab on the zener because the black box is a MKIII?
Click to expand...

He was not referring to the MkIII Boyer box, but by "Mk3", I'm sure he meant the Commando 850 Mk3 model which has a different charging system with two Zeners that are connected differently.

The alternative is to remove both the Zener and the rectifier and fit a modern voltage control box.
Click to expand...

Sorry Chopped850 if I confused you, I meant Mk3 Commando as L.A.B. said.
The zeners are on the charging side and the Boyer ign box is on the spark side, both are separate systems.
I have a made a colour print of the charging system with the zener if you want it for reference, the scheme is from the Commando manual but redrawn, (spot the lack of skill!!!), you could forget about the capacitor , powerpoint and possibly warning light, the light is there to tell you if your sytem is charging.
L.A.B. is bang on when he says swap the zener and rectifier for a electronic control box, they are fit and forget!

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp19 ... eside2.jpg

Again apologies

Robert
 
As mentioned by several folks, swap out the "round triple disc thingy" (rectifier), and the "finned egg" zener diode (regulator) with a modern regulator/rectifier such as a Sparx, Tympanium, or other. Radio shack has a sub- $10 bridge rectifier that is the simplest electrical part for a BritBike on planet earth (except for a fuse, which is simpler).

Connect the following together with as few connections as possible:

1. Wire from Battery negative (-)

2. Connection from middle disc on Lucas rectifier, OR wire from Sparx, Tympanium or Radio shack rectifier negative (-) terminal / wire (usually black)

3. Connection to fat blue barrel capacitor (if present) negative (-) terminal

4. Terminal on the finned egg (if used)

5. Connect the last wire THROUGH A FUSE to the keyswitch, then the other side of the switch to lighting & ignition

This was all just one more way to say the same thing as rbt, except his fuse doesn't protect the lighting stuff as shown, it will only isolate the battery if it blows, the lighting & ignition system would stay "hot".
 
This was all just one more way to say the same thing as rbt, except his fuse doesn't protect the lighting stuff as shown, it will only isolate the battery if it blows, the lighting & ignition system would stay "hot".[/quote]

Good points from Grandpaul, re fuses. I am going to put in a fusebox when doing the, wiring,where would be the best place to wire in the fuses for lighting and horn etc. on a Mk3 Commando?
 
I would use no more than 3 fuses:

-ignition

-lights

-all other

All in a small fuse box under the seat (easier to access than behind the sidecover). Run the first "hot" wire from the other side of it's fuse to the ignition, run the second lighting wire from the other side of it's fuse to the main light switch, run all other wires requring power from the other side of the 3rd fuse.
 
grandpaul said:
I would use no more than 3 fuses:

-ignition

-lights

-all other

All in a small fuse box under the seat (easier to access than behind the sidecover). Run the first "hot" wire from the other side of it's fuse to the ignition, run the second lighting wire from the other side of it's fuse to the main light switch, run all other wires requring power from the other side of the 3rd fuse.
Click to expand...

Thanks, can you clear a bit of wiring the fusebox up for me?, on the Mk3 the ignition switch has 1st position , "ON", for ignition, horn, brake lights etc., then has a 2nd position for the lights, and a 3rd for park, if I was to wire a separate fuse for the lights, which I DO want to do, would the lights not come on when I turned the switch to position 1 rather than the switch going to position 2 because the feed wire to the fusebox would be the one from the 1st position.
Sorry that may sound confusing and I'm probably not explaining it too well, if I could see the thing I'd be able to work it out.
 
rbt11548 said:
on the Mk3 the ignition switch has 1st position , "ON", for ignition, horn, brake lights etc., then has a 2nd position for the lights, and a 3rd for park, if I was to wire a separate fuse for the lights, which I DO want to do, would the lights not come on when I turned the switch to position 1 rather than the switch going to position 2 because the feed wire to the fusebox would be the one from the 1st position.
Click to expand...

I would suggest that you fit separate fuses for the headlamp and tail/instrument circuits.

When referring to the switch positions it's important to realise that the switch "key" positions do not directly relate to the switch terminal numbers (1-4)

With the ignition key turned fully left that is the Parking lights position, the next (clockwise) position is OFF, third is ON, and fourth is Ign. and Lights.
 
Okay, thanks everyone now I can get this mess cleaned up and hooked up right. I will work on it this weekend and post my results.

Merry Christmas to you all. :D
 
rbt11548,

I think it would be a good idea if we all continued the discussion about your own rewiring job in your original "Ignition & Fusebox" thread? Otherwise we will end up dealing with two subjects (chopped 850's wiring and your own) in the same thread - which could get messy?

Thank you.
 
Did Pazon, Dyno Dave starter, hi output battery & heavy cables. Works great.
 
L.A.B. said:
When referring to the switch positions it's important to realise that the switch "key" positions do not directly relate to the switch terminal numbers (1-4)

With the ignition key turned fully left that is the Parking lights position, the next (clockwise) position is OFF, third is ON, and fourth is Ign. and Lights.
Click to expand...

Yes you are correct re positions, what I was meaning was the first when turned on= ign, second lights etc. The wire positions on switch are numbered differently.
Thanks
 
I'd split any covering off the wires and trace them back to each component.
It sounds like these guys have you on the right path here. Frankly I would not trust any of the connections on this harness either as it looks like the PO was not very comfortable with wiring.
When I got my Norton the wiring was quite bad but these guys put me onto some proper diagrams that have allowed me to straighten it out.
I'll still rewire it to my standards someday but I have some more shaking out to do in other areas first.
I would also not be surprised to see the Boyer toasted, and perhaps the alternator also, if the bike was run with no regulation.
 
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