Pazon yes or no???

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grandpaul said:
"...tried to ride it to the shop for some harley parts..."

You think a Norton doesn't know what's going on?

SHEEESH!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah I need a reliable bike. :lol:

Here is what I found today. The battery is still charged. The postive ground cable is weak and will be replaced. It has the boyer MKIII black box. The diode under the tank has a tab on the back sticking up but nothing connected to it. Shouldn't there be a wire connected? Also the main fuse is still good and has not blown since the first time.
 
Go back to square 1 and go through your entire wiring harness checking ALL connections, and especially all grounding points. A single-point ground to a very solid, clean, bare spot on the frame, with a jumper to a good, clean, bare spot on the engine is advised.

Remember, the engine is totally isolated from the frame by the isolastic system.
 
About his question about the Diode not having a wire on it, I'm searching years back in my memory, but does he mean no main connection to the Zener Diode?
 
If you have no wire to the Zener diode, you BETTER have the output wires from the alternator run to a Sparx, Tympanium, Mity Max, or other solid state bridge rectifier unit that incorporates a voltage regulator.
 
I will take pic's of what I have electrical wise and show you all that way your not scratching your heads. But I haven't seen any voltage regulators. I have a little black box that connects to the electric points plate, two coils, a little round disc with wires connected and the stator under the primary cover. The zener is mounted by one bolt or nut atop the engine but nothing connected to it.

I have started going through the harness yesterday and cleaning up the connections.
 
chopped850 said:
I will take pic's of what I have electrical wise and show you all that way your not scratching your heads. But I haven't seen any voltage regulators. I have a little black box that connects to the electric points plate, two coils, a little round disc with wires connected and the stator under the primary cover. The zener is mounted by one bolt or nut atop the engine but nothing connected to it.

I have started going through the harness yesterday and cleaning up the connections.
Click to expand...

The little black box etc., will be the boyer, the zener is the voltage regulator. I have done a coloured mock up of the boyer wire attachments if you would like a copy.
Robert
 
rbt11548 said:
chopped850 said:
I will take pic's of what I have electrical wise and show you all that way your not scratching your heads. But I haven't seen any voltage regulators. I have a little black box that connects to the electric points plate, two coils, a little round disc with wires connected and the stator under the primary cover. The zener is mounted by one bolt or nut atop the engine but nothing connected to it.

I have started going through the harness yesterday and cleaning up the connections.
Click to expand...

The little black box etc., will be the boyer, the zener is the voltage regulator. I have done a coloured mock up of the boyer wire attachments if you would like a copy.
Robert
Click to expand...

That would be great. Because if there is supposed to be a wire connected to the zener then I can find it or figure out where it comes from.
 
The zener is mounted by one bolt or nut atop the engine but nothing connected to it.
Click to expand...

I can't imagine mounting the zener to the engine. The zener needs to dissipate heat to work. Mounting it to a hot engine is not going to accomplish this. If this is the method of voltage regulation you have a problem. First, it is nonfunctional without the wire from the rectifier connected. This means that your alternator can deliver more than 12 volts to your battery. Second, even if it were connected, it could not dissipate much heat and would likely burn out in short order. If you have no means of regulation you will probably start seeing headlight and taillight bulbs burn out with regularity.

If you are going to use the wafer type rectifier and zener diode, the zener must be mounted to large surface that will allow it to dissipate heat, preferably in an air stream. That is why Norton chose the Z-plates and BSA chose to use that funky finned aluminum heatsink.
 
It's mounted on the top of the top engine mount right under the gas tank. Where it's currently mounted it get's plenty of air as nothing blocks it. After reading the fusebox and igniton post my bike only has one fuse and no relay's. Granted it's only running a head and tail light.
 
I think he has the Zener confused with the Ballast Resistor.
 
Wow, now there's a blast from the past.

Howdy there MichaelB - and yes he does have the Zener mixed up with the ballast resistor!
 
I guess when he posts pictures it will help. Since his handle is chopped 850, if that is the sort of bike he has components may be anywhere.
I have seen some truly strange stuff on choppers built by folks who did not understand how things work.
When we buy these old bikes now we tend to be at the mercy of several previous owners with different skill levels.
At least when I was buying them 3o plus years ago they were mostly right, but I did run into stuff like different jets in a pair of carbs, and improperly installed spokes.
 
Here is the pic's. The first will be the zener.

Pazon yes or no???

Pazon yes or no???

Pazon yes or no???
 
Well Cookie, you nailed it!!! Michael and I were way off the mark.

Chopper: The Zener should have a wire connected to it. The Zener is the voltage regulator for your charging system.
 
The little black box etc., will be the boyer, the zener is the voltage regulator. I have done a coloured mock up of the boyer wire attachments if you would like a copy.
Robert[/quote]

That would be great. Because if there is supposed to be a wire connected to the zener then I can find it or figure out where it comes from.[/quote]

There is no wire going to the zener from the ignition unit , but I will send you the diagram and you can check out that it is ok wiring wise. I am not sure how to send it as I tried cut and paste and it didn't work, I'm not too skilled at the electronic black art of computers, butI'll get it to you somehow.
Robert
 
The Zener (if it works?) needs to be connected to the DC side of the charging circuit, which will be the wire from the middle terminal of the rectifier.

If the system has been run unregulated, there's a good chance the Boyer box has been damaged, if the voltage has been allowed to exceed 16V.
 
The finned part is just the heatsink (Triumph type) the Zener is the small electrical component with the large spade.
 
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