Parts you dont regret buying (2014)

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That's the beast, real test will be during the summer but using a test rig with an adjustable dc power supply it works well.
 
Tri Spark
Al Os battery status monitor
13mm master cylinder
Tacho drive housing with lipped seal.
FA head.
 
kommando said:
To ensure 12+V to the Boyer I have bought a electronic box that takes 5V to 30V in and puts out 13V (or whatever you set it to between 6V and 28V) with 8A max current draw. So it's both a step up and step down voltage stabiliser. So it not only stops kickbacks but protects the boyer if the regulator fails and the volts go too high.
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Amazing bit of kit. Seems like a very fine piece of equipment, would just need proper vibration isolation and weather protection...
 
grandpaul said:
Amazing bit of kit. Seems like a very fine piece of equipment, would just need proper vibration isolation and weather protection...
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Thanks guys, I found these two on EBay which look more resilient, but quite a difference in price....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-8-40V-To-DC-12V-10A-Step-up-down-Converter-UK/222853168158?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Boost-Buck-Converter-3V-5v-12v-24v-step-up-down-Voltage-POWER-Module/181951004591?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649


Would they work?
 
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I looked at the online reviews for the one I bought, its says max 8 amps but to achieve that you need to be up close to max volts, but the reviews confirm that at 12V it will pump out enough amps for a Boyer.

Cliffs, your first link looks to be good, but the second is limited to 3A which is not enough.
 
kommando said:
I looked at the online reviews for the one I bought, its says max 8 amps but to achieve that you need to be up close to max volts, but the reviews confirm that at 12V it will pump out enough amps for a Boyer.

Cliffs, your first link looks to be good, but the second is limited to 3A which is not enough.
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Thanks kommando. So the Boyer draws quite a bit of current then. I didn't realize to be honest.
 
It's the coils that draw the current, the Boyer can take up to 5A but the typical draw is 2.5 to 3A.
 
Double-sided gearbox positioner/primary chain tensioner thingy (technical terms used there).
 
Rear brake safety spring
Rear sets
mud flaps
splash shield
swingarm spindle collars
Brit Iron IS tank size cafe' seat
rubber sealing boots for tach/speedo instruments
RGM race brake lever
RGM fork brace
RGM Alu boxed swing arm
Front rotor cut/drilled 1.6 lb less mass more prettiness.
Alu front axle nut
Alu exhaust roses
sealed wheel bearings
anodized Amal slides in size #3 cut out
Podtronics reg/rectifier
Boyer trigger wire kit from Decent Cycles.
5 amp car system audio power filter in line to electronic ign
fittings to make site tube and toolless dripless oil tank drain tube
tall bars for long curise comfort ya can still tuck helmet down in.
better looking HD rear mirrors
Bulbsthatlast forever LED lighting
LED color change volt meter replacing engine running assimulator light.
Bumble Bee yellow/black Moss Motors spark plug wires
light weight key fob not to beat up switch in wind blasts or bouncing
relays for head lamp brightness
ATF Type F in primary, Dextron type in gearbox
silly con rocker and TS cover gaskets
3 phase Sparx 200ish watt alternator
1.2 ah gel cell back pocket size alarm type battery
socket head cover screws.
Hylomar sealant and JD Cornhead grease.
 
hobot said:
Rear brake safety spring
Rear sets
mud flaps
and JD Cornhead grease.
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I kept the rear flap, but found (at my minimal weight) the front flap was affecting "high" speed stability. Love the look, but not for me, ever.
 
Dang Mr. Ricky, you are one the few to ever mention noticing bothersome aerodynamics off fender/mud flap. I have too but only on fast far over leans in gusty wind. Alas at the speeds I need mud protection aerodynamics is not a factor. I reduced grime splash further with 3rd flap off front of rear fender. I reproduced the steel splash plate in Alu for Peel and put steel one on Trixie which catches most of what a mud flap does off engine. Hard bags and huge wind screen made Peel comfy all weather shopping commuter.
 
You sir, are 10 times the rider I will ever be, not joking and no false modesty.
As the cartoon billboard said during the muscle car and Black Panther days: Mopar to ya.
 
The front mudflap helps prevent rear flats.
Without a flap, the front tire flips the nail/screw up so that it can pierce the rear.
The front flap tends to knock the nail /screw back down so that the rear can run over it without harm.
That's the theory I've heard again and again from oldtimers, could be some truth in it.

Glen
 
Well that might be true regarding nails. But I can tell you that getting to the asphalt where I live leaves a lot of crud on the front of my engine without the flap! It saves a lot of cleaning.
 
Ugh, I'm known as the tire shampoo'r in my parts d/t finding leaks to plug to have a spare in case another flat before reaching home or town. The front pitching nails/screws/wire/sharp glass/rocks up for rear to pick up is a fact of road life but a flap knocking these out of the way or pointy side down is pure myth. Aero dynamics is non issue on my ordinary cycles operation but will be on Mz Peel so now Mr. Rick alerted me, must make front flap a snap on off mount, if I even can. richy and me appreciate distinctly less road mess covering up our oil tight beauties.
 
Mine are in order of cost to transformation ratio..

1) The headlights brackets (aka ears, (although they look more like noses to me)) on my bike making an awful racket as the O-rings were shot. I ordered new rings, and stripped the front end. When I looked at the fit between the brackets and the stanchions I realized why the O-rings fail. The bracket tubes are quite a loose so must still move about. So I looked for something suitable to shim them. In the bin I found a plastic TV dinner container, and cut it into strips about 25mm wide, and long enough to wrap around the stanchion minus about 1/4". The container plastic was different thicknesses at the bottom sides and ends, so I shimmed each end of each bracket choosing different strips until I got a nice sliding fit. Then applied contact adhesive to the back, inserted it into the tube, (not bridging the seam weld inside) and pushed it over the stanchion and left it till it dried. Did the same on the other three, and put it all back together. The difference was amazing!



So one thing I definitely don't regret buying was that TV dinner !!:)

2) I ditched those awful bulbous handlebar grips, and put some soft parallel Honda style grips on. The difference in control was dramatic, and I could also get much more purchase on the brake lever. If you don't believe me try it.

3) Don's (Maddass140) single pull throttle cable setup - Highly recommended.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Cliffa my respects on successful shade tree scab overs I've attempted similar on two Combats, one staying stock the other don't regret giving up to pair of billet CNW headlight mounts that clamp on firm 1st time and stay silent, just ain't Commando part numbered.

Blade fuse holder are clunky but save some mystery on electrical gremlins so even on factory Trixie I had to give in there. I got stranded with Wes back roads finally finding bad fuse holder but found cig box foil worked to finish ride.

I take note on the more modern straight bar grips. Thats what I fitted on 2nd Peel this time around. I put bar end sliders on Ms Peel and SV650 which helps keep grip end looking so bad on take downs. My irrational mind never expects to crash but my experienced rational mind makes me carry some vunerable spare levers and foot peg bolt and cable end kit. Bar end mirrors would not last long in my case and look like extended semi truck style to me. Not much trouble to mount mirrors under slung on bars if can arrange to miss tank at full lock, cleaner lines and vision path.
 
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