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As I mentioned, most hardware store paint stripper takes it right off. I do it all the time. Will be doing it later today in fact.
I powder coat small parts in-house. There is nothing in a hardware store in the US that will take the powder I use off a part. Those few times when I wasn't happy with the results, I tried many strippers and finally had to burn the coating off.

I quit powder coating the cradles as they are at the limit of what will fit in my oven and require too much masking. When I did powder coat them, I masked the swingarm sweep area and the area where the rear iso caps fit. Once coated, I used leather punches to cut the coating around the mounting bolts, and then an exacto knife to remove the coating - held at the right angle it will take the coating of easily.
 
It took me less than 10 minutes to do this one, once I got started. I had never used a Dremel before and took a while to get familiar with it and the attachments. I would imagine it would only take 5 minutes per hole once you get the hang of it.
Do you have the part number for that dremel tool attachment?
 
Do you have the part number for that dremel tool attachment?
No, I don’t, it is part of the starter kit that came with my new cordless Dremel that I picked up at Home Depot. According to the instruction booklet they are aluminum oxide discs that are held on the 1/8” shank with a small screw. I looked on Amazon and saw there are abrasive wheel kits you can buy. With the abrasive wheel setup, you can use it from either side. I used the back side which allowed me to use the bolt hole for the guide. Doing it from the front is too squirrely. They do sell small drill press type holders which you could use in some areas to hold it steady, which I considered, but now think unnecessary for this job. If I run across a part # I will let you know.
 
Here are a few shots showing the cleaned up attaching points. After using the oxide wheel, I used the sanding attachment to clean up what the wheel missed.
 

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I powder coat small parts in-house. There is nothing in a hardware store in the US that will take the powder I use off a part. Those few times when I wasn't happy with the results, I tried many strippers and finally had to burn the coating off.
Here's the product (purchased at Ace Hardware) and the result after application with a brush, 3 minute wait, and scraping it with a putty knife. Hitting with a bit of 80# sandpaper immediately takes care of the rest.

IMG_0600.jpg


I wasn't careful with the application or the scraping, and you can get much tidier edge if you are at all careful.

That's an exterior grade powder coat with a powder coat primer, both made by Prismatic Powder, but the same stripping product and technique works with Tiger Drylac, or Columbia Powder Coats.

@jamesp your cradle came out really nice. Well done!
 
Here's the product (purchased at Ace Hardware) and the result after application with a brush, 3 minute wait, and scraping it with a putty knife. Hitting with a bit of 80# sandpaper immediately takes care of the rest.

View attachment 20140

I wasn't careful with the application or the scraping, and you can get much tidier edge if you are at all careful.

That's an exterior grade powder coat with a powder coat primer, both made by Prismatic Powder, but the same stripping product and technique works with Tiger Drylac, or Columbia Powder Coats.

@jamesp your cradle came out really nice. Well done!
Thank you! That stripper is a good tip and I can see how areas could be targeted. I’m still researching where else the coating should be removed from the cradle. This gives me the opportunity to see where the parts go together for when the motor is ready.
 
Here are a few shots showing the cleaned up attaching points. After using the oxide wheel, I used the sanding attachment to clean up what the wheel missed.
Is your plan to strip only the sides that mate with the engine or gearbox and let the Nordlocks handle the sides facing the nuts?
 
Is your plan to strip only the sides that mate with the engine or gearbox and let the Nordlocks handle the sides facing the nuts?
I don’t know. That would be easiest. I am trying to figure out how to strip the front now. The Nord Locks bite really well. The torque for those bolts is only 25 lb. ft. Pounds. Not sure what to do here.
 
Unless they bite all the way through the powder and deep into the metal, so the torque is on the metal and not the powder coat, you are not avoiding the problem that you set out to deal with.
 
Unless they bite all the way through the powder and deep into the metal, so the torque is on the metal and not the powder coat, you are not avoiding the problem that you set out to deal with.
Ok, working on clean way to do that. With 25 lbs. torque, they can’t go that deep. I question why so little torque is used to hold the motor in. Thanks.
 
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Old Britts Powdercoating Guide

I used this guide when I got my frame coated. I printed it out and gave it to the powder coater and it came back perfect. I then just used regular paint (probably rustoleum, dunno, it's been a while) in those uncoated areas. Frame still looks great.

Over coated
 
I ground down one of the Dremel aluminum oxide wheels to the same size as the Nord Lock washers, drilled a 1/8” hole, and made my own arbor with 6/32” screw and washers. The washers on front fit the 3/8” hole and acted as a guide. Using this method I only cleared enough paint to counter sink the washers, so no need to paint mismatched holes, which I am happy about. Will have to come up with modification for larger holes.
 

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