Old Norton, New to me, Winter Project

Hey Folks, I just purchased a 1968 Norton Commando 750, which has been barn fresh for the last 12 years. I am wondering a few things and just trying to get my name out into the forum for much needed assistance. My first question: Which manual will be appropriate for my Norton? Pipes in pictures are slanted up, while mine are flat on bottom....any difference there? I have included some pictures, so have a loook and hopefully we can get started soon on the restoration. I will be completeing and teaching myself the finer points of motorcycle restoration, so any suggestions would be helpful.

[/img]P6050749[/img]

bignic36 said:

Hey Folks, I just purchased a 1968 Norton Commando 750, which has been barn fresh for the last 12 years. I am wondering a few things and just trying to get my name out into the forum for much needed assistance. My first question: Which manual will be appropriate for my Norton? Pipes in pictures are slanted up, while mine are flat on bottom....any difference there? I have included some pictures, so have a loook and hopefully we can get started soon on the restoration. I will be completeing and teaching myself the finer points of motorcycle restoration, so any suggestions would be helpful.

[/img]P6050749[/img]

Click to expand...

You need the full path to the pictures. Check out LAB's post at the top of the forum to post pics.

I personally like to have several manuals. I have the Haynes, Clymers and the factory manual which can be found online.

If it has been sitting that long:

Check and clean all electrical contacts.
Check to see if the motor is locked up. Does it turn over?
Take off the tank and give it a good cleaning. Fill it with vinegar and let it soak for a few days.
Clean the carbs.
Replace the plugs.
Get a fresh battery.
Check the brake systems entirely.
Replace the tires and probably all of the rubber hoses on the bike.

Those are the basics.

Good Luck. Look forward to seeing it.

It's a good find. The exhaust system is correct for a '68 Commando.

Unfortunately it still has it's original 'widowmaker' frame. Also, while the 20M3/126720 stamp on the drive side case looks authentic, the timing side crankcase seems to be from a later (20M3S) model, as your Commando's engine has the camshaft driven points and later tachometer drive assembly.

Nice find. Yes, you want to get a new frame before you go on the road with that bike. Search 'widomaker frame'. If you look at the first sticky post on this site, the technical info, there is a list of things you can get on line, like the early 68-70 parts book. There are a few things different about these early bikes from 71 and newer, but nothing important. I used mostly the workshop manual, it's available on line too, but kind of sketchy. Other books help.

Welcome.

Dave
69S

Motor does turn over. Added Marvel mystery oil to plug chamber, and oil tank, turning pistons over every couple of days to loosen. Tank is fiberglass, so I will need to line it?!? Can I try to clean and polish rusty parts, or should I collect all of them and have them dipped and re-chromed?! Also, some buddies mentioned i might want to replace ignition system and carbs to have a more reliable bike, keep all original parts, and have a bike ready to ride......Thoughts? Thanks, Nic

If you can find non-ethanol gas, use it. I use avgas. There are liners, that's a 3 day reading project, plenty of discussion and opinions on this forum. Don't loose that front/rear fender and the stays, it changed in 71 for larger tires. Replacing items can be either more expensive or less than re-chrome/cad plating. You just need to figure which to do. A lot of it may clean up nearly acceptably with WD40 and steel wool, or try aluminum foil. Some have luck with that. Power Arc ignition comes with everything you need. Others are good too. Read up on cleaning the carbs, they'll need it.

Dave
69S

I got mine after a 20 year slumber. One of the carbs was fused together. I opted for a single Mikuni and a Pazon Ignition. I would recommend those two upgrades if you are looking for reliability. She starts with two kicks from dead cold. '

The aluminum can be polished. It all depends on how much you want to spend or how much time you want to spend on it. Both time and money will be more than you expect.

Depending on how original you want to keep it, you can paint the fenders if they are rusted too badly.

Keep every part that you take off the bike. Get her running safe and solid, then start worrying about making her pretty. Take it very slow as far as the engine locking goes.

Looks like a lot of the fasteners will need to be replaced.

As far as carbs and ignition goes. How much will you ride it??

Points will work just fine, they did for decades. Mine still do, no issues at all.

As for carbies, Amal makes a new and imrproved carb, and if your bike doesn't have many miles, you can retrofit the ones you have with a better float and slide. I'd strongly recommend staying with the Amals though. Just my .02 as mine work just fine after I put the new hard anodized slides in.

Looks like a complete fastback. Nice find! You have to give us more of the story. How did you happen to know about this bike? What's its history?

My suggestion is to get it running, make sure the brakes work well and then ride the heck out of it before you decide on more repairs or to do a complete restoration or customization. It's good to let the bike tell you what it needs and for it to grow on you. Good luck and have fun.

" Can I try to clean and polish rusty parts, or should I collect all of them and have them dipped and re-chromed?! "

Up to you , or the bank account , or Her Indoors . Lot of rust finished restored hot rods these days , a new style , bare metal rust . Clear etch primer .

OBVIOUSLY the Mech. stuff is paramount , so should top the list .Other than the frame , the bolt on can be dealt with later , if reqd.

Might pay to dismantle , list reqired replacements ( mechanical ) and take it from there .
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The 68 Fastback EVEN WITH THAT FRAME , is a period classic . If it was mine it'd end up silver overall , orange seat , and make Green Blob tank badges .

Magneto ( joe Hunt available from vendor here 0 and carbs from the two dollar shop . Weber 40 DCOE , dellorotto dhla or 32 mm pumpers , any amals\
( if in good condition ) Or some of those horrible japanese things wot are entirely out of character .

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

One could have a wee think as to what the machine will be used for . . . as this defines ' tune ' STOCK is pretty good . 120ish with 21 T on box .
even if it needs a bit of a tailwind or slope . The Fastback were a definitive model . Dont worry about the frame .

WHO has evwer heard of the front falling of one :?: Isolastics run at 5 thou. are ' clear ' if in line . I presume much related to twerps setting them LOCKED
as it was a whole new ballgame , when it first came out . Not much to complain about there . looking fwd to your tales .

ARGH . .



Heare be IT .

Matt Spencer said:

WHO has evwer heard of the front falling of one :?

Click to expand...

I've heard of the front downtubes breaking on one I know of. However, is it necessary to replace the frame? Apparently (I've read on the internet ha ha) some were replaced by Norton under warranty, but I've also seen a tube brace added as per later frames. The frame would need to be checked well for cracks from metal fatigue. It is a lovely model though - nice find.

That'll keep you going over the Winter for sure! Personally my theory is if the frame has lasted this long, you hopefully aren't going to be wheelying it or jumping buses or even trying to emulate hotbot then it will be fine. I passed on a similar vintage bike with the same frame that I was offered to a friend of mine, its a great original patina fastback but with 6 Commando's already I didn't want to be greedy, I've said the same to the guy who bought it, it's lasted 40 odd years, its straight, no cracks, go for it and providing you don't abuse it it should be fine! Be great to see the finished product!

I had a fastback in 1976. It was a 1970 model and still had the drum front brake. It had the pee-shooter exhaust which I think looks a lot cooler but would not be original on your bike. I love the look of a fastback. Yours is really nice with that white tank. What part of the world are you in?

Hello,
I was just curious I have a by the numbers 68 750 but registered as a 69. My tac cable is positioned out the side of timing case like the one pictured on the orange bike. My points/ign is on the left hand side of bike. This does not seem to be the same for your bike find. I thought all commando's prior to 69-70 had the tac and ign in the same location. Like the orange bike and my bike. Anyone with some additional info on this. {Atlas,Dominator}

tks Doxford.

I had already mentioned it. The timing side crankcase half is either from '71 or '72 as it has the starter motor blanking plate.

L.A.B. said:

Also, while the 20M3/126720 stamp on the drive side case looks authentic, the timing side crankcase seems to be from a later (20M3S) model, as your Commando's engine has the camshaft driven points and later tachometer drive assembly.

Click to expand...

I would dismantle the engine before turning it any more. The Iron Oxide is harder than anything else, it will destroy any parts near it. If dismantled, you may be able to save many more parts. The old story of "Mystery oil soak and and knocked her loose and started her up" are romantic, but you never hear about the compression only lasting 10 minutes.

The old ' thousand acres ' of old newspaper , on the floor . Screw up top layers of goop as you go . Saves getting the floor re finished .

A few old containers to throw oily bits in & etc & so on .

Get to work, take no prisoners.