How to adjust front drum brake

Bluesman3000

Bluesman3000

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Mar 12, 2012
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My 1968 Norton Commando has about 1400 miles on it since being restored. I've noticed that the front brake performance is a bit soft and would like to adjust it. I do most of my own work but I'm unsure how to proceed with this. I thought maybe the handlebar lever would be sufficient adjustment but it didn't do anything. I think I have to make the adjustment on the drum itself. I would appreciate a "how-to" on this. I've searched for videos but can't find any. Thanks!
 
I just did this adjustment this past weekend. You need to adjust the bar that connects the two pivots before you touch the cable. I first discounted the cable at the lever then pulled out the pin from the front pivot lever. With the help of my son, we put wrenches on each pivot nut and rotated them so that the shoes went hard against the drum. While my son held the shoes in place, I adjusted the tie bar so that the pin would go through. I then reconnected the cable and adjusted. I think that’s how it’s done but there are more qualified people on here than me.
 
With drum bakes, you can have different linings. Some friction material fades when it gets hot, other types get sticky. A twin leading shoe brake has a lot of self servo. If the linings heat-up and get sticky while you are using the front brake, you can be chucked down the road. If the linings heat up and fade, you can end up with no brake. The comibination of linings which become sticky and self-servo can give the brake a mind of it's own. On a motorcycle. the rear brake is usually only decoration - only to be used if you want to put the bike on the ground, before hitting a solid object.
 
zotz said:
As it's not always convenient to have a second person around, just wondering if anyone has found any tricks to do the adjustment by themselves? I've managed but it's awkward.
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Prop the lower lever in the on position with a short piece of wood. Works for me.
 
I recommend a front stand - this is a great piece of kit, stores nicely, and is inexpensive. I have the front of my bike up now for alignment and brake fluid bleeding. Get the pin pack with the 14mm for the steering tube.

EDIT: This won't help with the levers, only with turning the wheel, etc.

Amazon product ASIN B00CX7L1LA
 
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acotrel said:
With drum bakes, you can have different linings. Some friction material fades when it gets hot, other types get sticky. A twin leading shoe brake has a lot of self servo. If the linings heat-up and get sticky while you are using the front brake, you can be chucked down the road. If the linings heat up and fade, you can end up with no brake. The comibination of linings which become sticky and self-servo can give the brake a mind of it's own. On a motorcycle. the rear brake is usually only decoration - only to be used if you want to put the bike on the ground, before hitting a solid object.
Click to expand...
On my Manx, the rear brake and engine braking have to be used as the 2LS front is not especially efficient and fades significantly. The rear brake plate is free to move so it is self centring.
Use of both brakes needs a lot of training and skill.
Note the instruction Mark supplied in post #5. Paragraph 5 also applies to common single leading shoe brakes. Makes a huge difference.
To my surprise, my Victor Specials with 8" SLS front brake is capable of locking front wheel on asphalt. Best drum brakes I have.
 
Jdub said:
I recommend a front stand - this is a great piece of kit, stores nicely, and is inexpensive. I have the front of my bike up now for alignment and brake fluid bleeding. Get the pin pack with the 14mm for the steering tube.

EDIT: This won't help with the levers, only with turning the wheel, etc.

Amazon product ASIN B00CX7L1LA
Click to expand...
I don't see how you can use that type of front stand on a Commando. That one is made for a bike with a hollow steering stem. There is no where for the pin to go on a Commando. The type that lifts by the fork lowers or the wheel spindle should work.
 
The ones with pins going into the holes for the damper screw feels a bit flimsy. For lifting front wheel I use a small scissor lift under the frame. When using paddock stands always start with the rear.
Wheel axle type stands are useless in many cases. Though I use rear ones on 4 racers in the paddock.
The slicks racer has a rear stand lifting under the rear fork and a hollow stem type front. For warmers and changing to rain tyres.
A small hydraulic jack and some wood also works for front wheel lift.
 
zotz said:
As it's not always convenient to have a second person around, just wondering if anyone has found any tricks to do the adjustment by themselves? I've managed but it's awkward.
Click to expand...
I've used a cable tie from the brake to the mudguard stay, to hold one lever, then held the other lever with my left hand, leaving my right hand free to adjust the rod length.
 
Ron and all - I am using this stand right now - 14mm goes into the lower yoke stem quite nicely. It may be that earlier yokes lack access to the steerer tube hole, underside?

How to adjust front drum brake
 
1st release the connecting rod until just the backward lining touches the drum in case of brake engagement.
2nd turn the wheel and tension the brake cable with the adjuster screws until the backward lining touches the drum on one tiny spot by one turn. You will hear that clearly.
3rd adjust the connecting rod until the front lining touches the drum on one tiny spot too. you should hear and feel two identical "spots" by one wheel round.
4th releas the brake cable adjusters until your desired movement on the leaver and make sure the wheel turns freely.

repeat this after your linings are run in.

works a treat for me.
 
I have done everything I can think of to improve the DLS. Middling results...not much different than a SLS on a norton
 
I've only ridden two drum braked Nortons. The first was a Domiracer with Ferodo AM4 brake linings. A very sharp brake.
My '70 Roadster was rebuilt with a stiffening kit and 'regular' Ferodo linings, and I'd describe it as more than adequate, but certainly not comparable to a disc setup with a 13mm master cylinder.
Centring the brake plate assembly by pulling on the brake prior to tightening the wheel spindle is a vital step, sometimes overlooked.
 
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