Old Norton, New to me, Winter Project

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I would really check the frame and if it hasn't been re-worked to fix the inherent problems from that year bike I'd see about getting it fixed. Yes it's lasted 40 years, many of those parked in storage. Welcome to the site lots of good folks here all willing to help. Nice find. Cj
 
Nice score,

Looks a little rougher then my 71 fastback when I started. But mine had a huge oil puddle under itjust hauling it home on the trailer. Yours seems to a bit tighter or all the oils leaked out of it.

Fixing up one of these beasties is a slippery slope, ever steepening.

I think a rebuild on the forks is a must.

Tune the wheels.

New rubber.

Might need a new harness, depends on where you live, mine was fried form the heat here in Namibia.

I agree about the electronic ignition and a single Mikuni, I know its sacrilege but I'm not 20 anymore a couple of kicks I can manage.

Looks like fuel lines, oil lines, spark plug leads etc are on the list.

Get your check book out, have fun, the pain wont matter the first time you get on it and blow your hair back.

C
 
Having not attained the manuals yet, please disregard next question if they are contained there. Can you show me the pictures of the frame modification necessary for the widowmaker to become safe?, or shall I be looking for a new frame all together? Thanks all for the notes and my repair list is growing happily! :roll: I will order the manuals asap!


I reside in Hartford, Connecticut
 
L.A.B. said:
Also, while the 20M3/126720 stamp on the drive side case looks authentic, the timing side crankcase seems to be from a later (20M3S) model, as your Commando's engine has the camshaft driven points and later tachometer drive assembly.
[/quote]

Why would a previous owner have changed the crankcase? Does it make the bike more reliable?
 
bignic36 said:
Why would a previous owner have changed the crankcase?

One possible reason would be an engine blow-up sometime in the bike's past that damaged the timing side case, and the engine rebuilt with whatever used parts happened to be available.
 
Yer wack a bit of toob in up under , like wot the ovas got there , thereabouts . A Aircraft Welder might be ok for the job . ( Tiger Moth frame welder :P )

Old Norton, New to me, Winter Project


dunno what hes up to here , looks like yr oil tank too . . . http://www.nortonfastback.com/images/paint/frame--7.jpg

other piktuas

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=nort ... 40&bih=732

Check youre p.m.'s olde bean .
No one here will complain if you put more photographs up here . :wink:
 
Hi Bignic, & welcome.
The Fastback is my favourite Commando style-wise. I had a 72 version many years ago. I hope you bring it back to life & discover motorcycle heaven.
For the chrome, I have found that "rust buster" ( otherwise known as rust converter, basically phosphoric acid) can work miracles in cleaning up rusty chrome. And if the result isn't satisfactory, it provides a stabilised base for painting.
That early frame is a worry. From what I've read about them, I'd rather not ride one. The bracing tube shown in Matt's pic. was added as an afterthought by Norton, so maybe you could have one added to yours. Just take note that the head steady attachment points are included in this tube.
I've just had a cross-tube added to the bottom frame rails of my 70 model to enable me to fit the late model side stand. I bought the 1" tubing from the guys I bought a box trailer from, and they did the welding too. They weld all day long, so I figure they know how to do it.
Apart from the engine, brakes, tyres,suspension, ignition, carbs that have been mentioned, there's also the isolastics to consider. They can adversely affect handling if deteriorated/badly adjusted. I recently replaced mine with the vernier adjustable type, and the old rubbers I took out were badly worn and perished.
Also, that head steady bracket was prone to cracking. My bike had already been fitted with the later box-section type long before I acquired it.
Oh I nearly forgot: the gearbox layshaft bearing has a reputation as a weak point. If it seizes it can lock up the gearbox and back wheel. Pulling the clutch in won't unlock the wheel. I replaced mine with a roller bearing.
Have fun.
How many winters do you have?

Cheers
Martin
 
Apparently, I may need a few winters and a few summers to get this beauty working again?!?!? Either way on the frame action, I will have to strip the frame bare too either get it welded or to put in another.?! I will NOT be Racing, Jumping, or doing wheelies, but New England is alive with many bumpy roads, so It may likely be a great idea to do so. Thanks for the help fellas and ladies......
 
bignic36 said:
Apparently, I may need a few winters and a few summers to get this beauty working again?!?!? Either way on the frame action, I will have to strip the frame bare too either get it welded or to put in another.?! I will NOT be Racing, Jumping, or doing wheelies, but New England is alive with many bumpy roads, so It may likely be a great idea to do so. Thanks for the help fellas and ladies......

Where in NH are ya? I have veteran welding skills.. "a few winters" is just too long, mate, you won't be able to bear the stress :mrgreen:
 
Where in NH are ya? I have veteran welding skills.. "a few winters" is just too long, mate, you won't be able to bear the stress :mrgreen:[/quote]

I live in Hartford, CT. I am willing to travel for reliable info....
 
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