Oil

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Hi! ,i am about to change the oils on my Commando ,and even though i have the tables with recommended oils ,i will hear what you guys use.

Can syntetic/semi syntetic oil be used on the engine ,or should i just use regular?

The manual says that i should use the engine oil on the primary ,but the man i purchased my bike from did use ATF (automatic transmission oil) on the primary ,what will you recommend?

And what about the rear chain ?
 
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Here's what I use

Engine 15/60 Full Synthetic

Primary ATF

Gearbox EP90 Full Synthetic

Chain Spray grease
 
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I just fill to the low mark on the oil tank dipstick and to the level holes on the rest. The capacities are in the manual from memory.
 
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fireflake purple said:
Hi! ,i am about to change the oils on my Commando ,and even though i have the tables with recommended oils ,i will hear what you guys use.

Can syntetic/semi syntetic oil be used on the engine ,or should i just use regular?

The manual says that i should use the engine oil on the primary ,but the man i purchased my bike from did use ATF (automatic transmission oil) on the primary ,what will you recommend?

And what about the rear chain ?

Engine: Castrol GTX 20/50
Primary: Castrol GTX 10/30 (180 cc instead of to fill hole - keeps clutch from slipping - have heard that ATF is even better for this because it is quite thin)
Gearbox: Generic 90W Hypoid Gear Oil
Swing arm: Generic Hypoid 90W Gear Oil
Forks: Belray 20W Fork Oil
Chain: Pedro's Dry Lube (marketed for bicycles - doesn't fly off)
 
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engine -- straight 50w Valvoline.
gearbox -- EP90 gear oil.
forks - 7oz. 30w each leg.
chain - DuPont spray grease from Lowes ( does not fly off -- best I've seen in 30 years)
REGULAR oil changes are THE key whatever you use.
Ride safely. James.
 

L.A.B.

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The recommended amount of fork oil as listed in just about every manual and handbook is 150cc, although certain noted experts recommend 180cc.
 

ntst8

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I used to run Castrol GTX 20/50 then switched to Motul 15/50 full synth (only because thats all that was in my garage for a short notice oil change, use it in my Ducati). On the oil pressure gauge on the Norton it runs around 10 psi lower pressure at cold and 10 psi higher pressure when hot compared to the GTX - both of which i like so i have kept using it.
In the gearbox i have used both Castrol and Redline full synth. I change the gearbox oil when it fails the foot test, change no longer feeling completely smooth - which tends to be more frequently than the book says. The full synth definitely lasts longer under that test.
The only down side of the full synth that i see is that it finds its way out of formerly oil tight places - which just helps confirm a few prejudices and add to the talking points at the coffee stops.
 
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Thanks!
I have now bought a regular classic 20/50 oil for the engine ,ATF for the primary ,and a 80/90 hypoid gear oil , hopefully they`ll do the job!
 
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Is the cartridge oil filter easy to get or is it a special type?
Can a modern type from ex. Mann be used? have any a part number?
 

L.A.B.

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There are various filter options available: http://atlanticgreen.com/oilfilter.htm

And I'm not sure what types are available in Norway but one for a Citroen 2CV car should fit as that is the filter that the Norton factory used in the first place.
 
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You can get an adaptor (like a Helicoil in reverse) which will allow you to convert the threads on the filter head to a more common size. Allows you to use more widely available and cheaper oil filters.

I know these adaptors are available from Colorado Norton Works but there may be other places selling them. I found out my bike was already converted when I went to put the correct Champion filter on it and it didn't fit!! I now use a common WIX filter on my bike and these are available from every local auto parts store.


fireflake purple said:
Is the cartridge oil filter easy to get or is it a special type?
Can a modern type from ex. Mann be used? have any a part number?
 
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With regards to engine oil level in the tank, it is worth mentioning that Norton sometimes fitted dipsticks that were too long. I got the later type for my 73 850 from Norvil or RGM (sorry - I cant remember which). The new dipstick is 5" long measuring from underside of cap to stem tip. I never go above midway between min and max marks. This reduces wet sumping tendencies slightly and is certainly worth doing.
 
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Just to keep facts correct, I just realised that I said Norton sometimes fitted dipsticks that were "too long". That should read "too short". This had the effect of raising the oil tank level unnecessarily and possibly aggravating any tendency to wet sumping. The later dipsticks were 5" long, thus lowering the oil level.
 
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Well ,then i have the short type. So the longer types did`nt have anything to do with the change to the 850cc engine?

What do you me with "wet sumping"?
 
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