Norvil Rearsets

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From an engineering standpoint the forces should be in a vertical plane which is what this cross section supports. From a practical standpoint there’s less strength to support misuse.

Most rearsets locate the foot peg in that vicinity. I’ve seen others use that rear mounting hole too.

I prefer ones that use a mounting plate instead.

You’ll have to ask Mr. Dunstall why he designed it that way...
 
Gadge said:
Rose joints were from these folks . Nothing special, just cheapo from ebay. I did have to make bushing to run 1/4" bolts ( well i used 6mmm but don't tell anyone) through to fasten the linkage rod.

Rose joints were cheap enough to try out. If they work well I'll replace with stainless ones, but they are about 6x the price!

I found the foot rests a pain to tighten too. Only done 3 miles so far and they survived that with blue Loctite.

Can post more pics when home but you might be able to see searchable side from zooming pic.

Have also added a pic of my work in progress brake light switch.

View attachment 11590 View attachment 11591
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Hi Gadge, Looking at the top photo it looks like a standard front guard that's fitted...can i ask if you have any issues with the front mudguard flexing without any stays??
 
gortnipper said:
Sorry, my post was unclear.

The tube type rear sets I had were an unkown make I got as spares when I purchased my bike about 30 years ago and that I had on it for a LONG time.

View attachment 11700

I sold them after buying NY Norton sets for my resto mod.

I dont have a pic of the cast ones (not Dunstall) at work. Can take them when I get home.
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Months behind as usual! :rolleyes:
Those look very much like Unity Equipe rearsets.
 
olympus said:
Hi Gadge, Looking at the top photo it looks like a standard front guard that's fitted...can i ask if you have any issues with the front mudguard flexing without any stays??
Click to expand...

Hi Malcolm,
Since I took that pic I fitted a stay at the front. The back of the mudguard does vibrate a bit at idle but no more than anything else!

I have considered making or modifying stainless stay to fit to the caliper bracket but it's not on the very urgent or important list.
Gary
 
gortnipper said:
This is how the rose joint works on the NY Norton rear set.

Norvil Rearsets


You chould mount it to the outside instead and it should work.
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What is it like with solid metal footpegs as opposed to rubber?
I like the look but have always been hesitant because of the unknown (vibes, grip on boots, etc)
 
Gadge said:
Hi Malcolm,
Since I took that pic I fitted a stay at the front. The back of the mudguard does vibrate a bit at idle but no more than anything else!

I have considered making or modifying stainless stay to fit to the caliper bracket but it's not on the very urgent or important list.
Gary
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Thanks Gary, appreciated :)
 
robs ss said:
What is it like with solid metal footpegs as opposed to rubber?
I like the look but have always been hesitant because of the unknown (vibes, grip on boots, etc)
Click to expand...

No issues with vibes or grip using the Norvil rearsets.
 
Hi Gadge
Can you advise who supplied the front AP brake caliper mounting plate??
 
robs ss said:
What is it like with solid metal footpegs as opposed to rubber?
I like the look but have always been hesitant because of the unknown (vibes, grip on boots, etc)
Click to expand...
Dont notice the vibrations. The shift feel is very positive.
 
The older Norvil rear sets I have don't that have that aggressive of knurling. The newer ones I have are very aggressive. You think twice about grabbing them with bare hands. I do have baby soft hands so there is that.

The pegs do like to come loose so Locktite is required.
 
swooshdave said:
The older Norvil rear sets I have don't that have that aggressive of knurling. The newer ones I have are very aggressive. You think twice about grabbing them with bare hands. I do have baby soft hands so there is that.

The pegs do like to come loose so Locktite is required.
Click to expand...
The NYN pegs have flats milled on so you can tighten them with a wrench and they dont come off easily. But on race bikes I see them safety wired.
 
Slightly off topic, but related...
Does anyone have a set of CNW rear sets mounted on original Z plates?
If so, would you mind posting a couple of photos?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
 
Rob,

The rear sets I make require the z-plates that go with them. The left side z plate has a cavity/pocket where the cam is located that controls the cable pull. Inside this pocket there is a micro brake light switch as well.

The z plate is also bumped out a bit (thicker where the footrest mounts) so if the footrest was mounted directly on a stock z-plate the rear brake lever would make contact with the primary

Also, my reverse shift lever would not work since the distance to the footrest would be different

So these things make it somewhat of a package and while some things could possibly be modified to fit, not sure it would be worth it

Matt
 
cNw said:
Rob,

The rear sets I make require the z-plates that go with them. The left side z plate has a cavity/pocket where the cam is located that controls the cable pull. Inside this pocket there is a micro brake light switch as well.

The z plate is also bumped out a bit (thicker where the footrest mounts) so if the footrest was mounted directly on a stock z-plate the rear brake lever would make contact with the primary

Also, my reverse shift lever would not work since the distance to the footrest would be different

So these things make it somewhat of a package and while some things could possibly be modified to fit, not sure it would be worth it

Matt
Click to expand...
Okay - thanks Matt
 
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