Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration

ludwig said:
If you make these P11 pipes swing out further to clear the oil tank , tell the rider to allways wear a pair of these :
Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration

Header pipes make nasty burns !
Click to expand...

Don't worry, after the first couple burns the rider learns to splay the legs a little more. :mrgreen:
 
Those are nice boots, but I thought all the flat trackers only turned left? You wouldn't need the steel show part on the right foot...
 
I'm sure Ludwig is glad he wasn't posting as he built his bike, can you imagine how many people would be going WTF?
 
In reply to a previous comment, the front forks have just 1/16" short of FIVE INCHES of travel! (That's a lot for an old bike).

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Color match on the paint is going to be PERFECT!

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
 
Got a few items checked off the punchlist this morning...

Trimmed the inner primary chainguard lip to clear the tranny adjuster hardware, and installed a freshly cad plated Triumph chainguard lip (bent for proper fit)-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Installed inner primary cover with lockwasher & loctite on the front nut, stud lock on the 2 screws (also staked), and carefully shimmed the backside of the case to the engine/tranny mount with appropriate spacers & shim washer-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Working clearance-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Anyone note the curiosity regarding the primary chain adjuster snail cams?
 
Aligned the primary drive engine sprocket with the clutch basket by shimming up the backside of the basket-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


(You can see that the the teeth tips just touch the edge of the square that is braced against the inner primary cover)

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


I scuffed up the clutch plain plates to knock the glaze offf them so they'll grab the friction plates nicely-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
 
Clutch stack installed, primary chain installed, master link safety wired (can just make it out behind the clutch basket)-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Polished rocker inspection caps installed after setting valve lash-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Installed headlight shell just to get the box that had the chromed stuff out of the way-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
 
The tenioners are not original, the original setup was counter-productive...

I believe the primary cover goes on okay w/o removing the footrest mounts. Will find out this evening.
 
Got the shocks done with help from a couple of friends compressing the springs while I popped the retainers in; it's starting to look like a bike-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
 
ludwig said:
Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration

are these tensioners original ??
You'll have to remove the footrest to install the primary cover .
Click to expand...

This is the original setup:

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


You can even see the engine plate bent because the adjuster was only resting on one side. I proposed the snail cam adjusters because having one on each side would spread the load and having the cams right next to the plate reduces the leverage on the two screw heads. I think it should work out good.

Jean
 
Yes, I thought of that, and I'm fabricating a pointer to affix to a cover screw hole, just above the rotor, then bend it into position and adjust it using a timing disc to get the positioning just so...

"Why didn't the designers..." (an oft heard question, with hundreds of different variations to complete the sentence)

So, why didn't the designers use shouldered case studs placed at appropriate locations to clear the primary chain path, to hold the stator in place?

Why didn't they have timing windows back then, as on the Commandos and late 60s & 70s Triumph twins?

...etc...
 
ludwig said:
Jean : I am aware of the problem with the original tensioner .
I removed mine too , but I solved it in a different way .
Click to expand...

So... how did you do it?

curious Jean
 
Tank is now completely primed & prepped, so here is the procedure for lning the inside:

First, set everything (Tank, CLR bottles, Tank liner product cans) in out the sun (I'm glad it chose to cooperate), to get it to a good working temp.

Toss in a handful of sheetrock screws in the tank and roll it around 'till your arms are about to fall off. Empty it completely and blow out any remaining residue with compressed air. This loosens off any flaky rust and residue / debris.

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Pour in 50/50 mix of hot water and CLR (I use 2 "quart" bottles), slosh it around till your arms are totally shot. Let the CLR sit in the tank, in the sun, for several hours. (CLR stands for Calcium, Lime & Rust; that's what it's designed to remove)

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Drain, rinse, drain again. Set the tank in the sun to dry; help it along by blasting compressed air in there continuously if you want.

Next up (pix later):

Mix the Caswell "A" & "B" components in a suitable container, then pour into the tank and swirl it in every possible direction (cap in place with plastic wrap covering the opening, and petcock plugs screwed into the bungs). Take your time, this stuff sets up relatively slowly. Allow to cure per product instructions.
 
Quick shot just for grins-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Caswell sealer is done and sitting out in the sun to let the residue settle in the top, and drain out the filler neck (note that the tank bottom is totally prepped and primed, not just oversprayed on old paint-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


I have a better idea than using this old screw for the main tap handle-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration
 
These plates look marvelous, but I'm struggling to see how the snail cam adjusters work as fitted, as in the photo of the assembly taken from above they seem to have a hole drilled through the centre of the adjusters with the top mounting bolt going through them.
 
The snail cams actually serve as abutments to evenly secure the top tranny mount against the stresses imposed by the final drive.
 
Nevertheless, if there is a hole drilled through them then the distance between both holes will be fixed and they would be useless as adjusters and Jeandr's elegant machine work on these items will be wasted, you might as well use a flat bar with one hole to locate to the locating stud and one to accommodate the top gearbox mount. This is then a rigid mounting - in some ways preferable to the uni-directional design of the original, although this would preclude easy adjustment of the primary chain. I intend to fit a standard adjuster on the left and a type similar to the Commando on the right, with push and pull facility. This will hopefully negate the necessity to adjust the primary chain and final drive chain in unison.
 
Took the tank back to the painter and shot these pix of the battery box & sidecovers (note the metalwork, NO Bondo)-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Closeups of the repaired spot at the rear of the oil tank cover-

Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Norton N15CS Hybrid restoration


Will have pix of all bodywork base coat painted by Monday.
 
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