Norton Low Boy

cjandme said:

Thanks for the "eye candy" shot of your cradle and swingarm murraycod0. Cj

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I hear that. It's right up there with the crankshaft porn.

Agreed, - L.A.B. can we please have a sticky thread to contain such technical delights in ready reference format?

'I can steer much more with my body than before.'
'

I never have t o do that with my Mk3 Seeley. All i usually do is gas it really early in corners to get it to steer, the rest is simply thinking where you want it , and it is there. The steering is set up to oversteer under power. I am well past steering by hanging off the side of the bike, it is too exhausting.

@murraycod0
Loved the pic of the maney outrigger, but why has it got a centre stand attached to the engine plates ? If you are using it on a road bike,surely it is a waste of a beautiful thing ?

I never have t o do that with my Mk3 Seeley. All i usually do is gas it really early in corners to get it to steer, the rest is simply thinking where you want it , and it is there. The steering is set up to oversteer under power. I am well past steering by hanging off the side of the bike, it is too exhausting.

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Now ya scarring me acetrel as that's how I handle THE Grit and pavement when getting too frisky for the conditions. Tucked in tight to bike and back as far as I can to unload the front while loading the rear, because on hi power leans, [that ain't yet pulling a wheelie] front becomes worse than useless but severely dangerous. If ya pick up your pace even more you may enter the sliding scale zone of reverse control to throttle steering, ie: below some power and speed the throttle helps keep bike from falling over or leaning down further to actually help pick it back up finishing turns, but just a bit more and the throttle tips bike over faster till can cause a low side trip out faster than pilot can induce it by forks or body English. I can relate to the 'thinking a bike around' w/o much pilot effort and excites me no end to read your descriptions of it.

You are right on the door step of entering phase 3 handling by throttling a rear slide out into apexes then let the sudden hook up hi side you back up right inline w/o using the forks which will automatically snatch forks into straight steering if brave enough to let it. I don't think a steering damper will allow this fast of fork action. I crashed on THE Gravel trying it with a damper so no more of that hindrance on my fast corning antics. Phase 4 is lurking just pass this, which causes front or both tires to leave the surface so better damn well know exactly when tire will let go and how much bike will fly up and around before landing.

I couldn't get my head around riding a commando on the dirt. On the bitumen, you've got to kee p your sense of humour, and don't let the bike grab you by the throat. The old Triumph I used to ride was extremely difficult, and took a lot of concentration, and psyching up to ride it really fast. With the Seeley, it is not so difficult. You don't get to be a good rider by riding a bad bike, but you learn how not to crash. I've always gad a bad psychological problem with my racing. As soon as my bum touches the seat, and we are rolling, I am never going to crash again. I know that is delusional, but the Seeley inspires real confidence - much more than the triumph ever did. And I know if it all goes pear-shaped, I can handle the situation unless it is really extremely bad. It would take a really hard rear end shunt to bring me down in a race . I rarely make mistakes and do it to myself these days.
I had to laugh at the topic on building a short stroke Norton. Some of these guys don't know they are alive. My 63mm stroke Triumph was a nasty piece of shit that nobody should have to endure. You only had to blink and it would crash you. A mate of mine still has it in the next town (glenrowan). It is a bit better these days, and I might one day ride it again, there is someone racing who I'd like to have a go at blitzing, and I think the old Triumph can do it.
Due to a heart condition, I usually take metoprolol to stop the adrenalin rush - bloody good stuff ! Everything happens in the cold light of day when you take that medication. As I said, you have to keep your sense of humour.

Put these blackchrome 1 5/8 exhausts on. Quite a few things need tweeking to fit like having to mill off 5mm from the carb manifold sso the carb misses the web on the frame.looks like the air filter is not going to fit either so I ordered a go cart filter which should do according to the measurements at K&N.

The exhausts are viking

murraycod0 said:

The exhausts are viking

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And look great.

Have we seen the whole bike view yet, looks like its almost all done (except for that (temporary) ignition setup ?

Looks like you have 2 kickstarters ! Where did that tube of metal polish go....

Acetrel real dirt like ya see in stadium MX events is a delight on any bike even Cdo's. On loose stuff any bike is a handful of worrry. Trix Pix now has some crude video flavor of my Commando just short of handing me my ass in pieces again. The last fling dissolved the new tire case hub cushions I'd renewed for Texas trip 3 wk ago riding to preserve everything. I did play hard now and then prior though so know by the signs I've about used up whole drive train - AMC guts to hub paddles to bearings plus dumb asxle, sprocket teeth and speedo cable but some memories are still fresh.

Murry you are a brave man with all that SS braided teeth routing.
1 5/8" headers add to the over sized sound of a lithe Commando.

Decided to run a neutral light and knock up a stainless dash with all the idiot lights.I had a weld job to do on the left hand slider as it seeped fork oil.Casting not the best ,The constantino springs are a great improvement alog with a cnw hydraulic clutch.The brakes are a pain ,I might have to go up a size in cylinders as they will not come right.The SS battery box is another item that they supply to suit the frame

Finally found a good style of battery to suit the less than normal room in the height department.
You can seethe filter how it just tucks in

There is loads of room under the back wheel and will probably have to trim the guard to make it easy to get the wheel off.Probably could have had 19's on as that was what the frame would have been designed for.IIt runs like a dream.Started first kick which brought some wide grins and sounds awesome with those vikings I think I will be using the sidestand because you almost need a chainblock to to get it on the stand.
Here is a better view of the wheel height.

murraycod0 said:

I think I will be using the sidestand because you almost need a chainblock to to get it on the stand.

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Neat looking cycle.
Interesting about your centrestand - 850 Mk1 almost has a "rollon" type centrestand, best design ever - just press down on the foot, and the bike rolls itself onto the stand - what have you done to it ??

Neat looking project Murray, and best of all you are from Sydney, so one day I hope to eyeball your bike. How is the chain alignment with that phat rear tyre?

Cheers Richard

Dances with Shrapnel said:

Below is a scan from a Clymer Norton manual (Third printing - February 1980) showing dimensions for the 750 Commando frame. The manual includes a near identical illustration for the 850 Commando frame. From what I have seen the only difference is that the steering head angle went from 27 degrees on the 750 frames to 28 degrees on the 850 frames. Everything else (primary dimensions) appears the same. I do recall some discussions about difference in shock mounts, rear frame loops and some ancillary bracketry but the primary dimensions appear to remain identical between the 750 and 850.

Would be interesting if we could get a compare and contrast between the Norvil (lowered) frame dimensions and the illustration above.

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@murraycod0 - did you get a chance to take a few frame measurements to compare to the standard Norton as depicted above? Care to share?

Your build is coming along real nice!

Them 16" rear meats sure appeal to me on my future chopper and sand dune climber. The shocks look a bit short, at least for the rim size, that might make center stand require lifting most all the bike weight to extend stand. To keep the low rear squat stance might have to sell off the chrome one and fit a trimmed stand.

Dances with Shrapnel said:

murraycod0; if you would oblige to take a few measurements it would be appreciated. I think the two telling dimensions will be from the centerline of the frame loop to the top ISO mount (shown as 9.45") and from the iso loop to the centerline of the bottom tubes of the frame (shown as 10.80")

You nail these two down for your frame and I think it will paint the picture.

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@murraycod0 - Apologies here but this is the illustration I wanted to quote. I am thinking a check/measure of the 9.45" and 10.80" dimension on your frame would tell the whole story. Any input on this will be appreciated.

While you`re doing some dimensional checks, put the bike on some bathroom weight scales, one under each wheel, check % front/rear. The centre stand issue could be a height/leverage angle problem, &/or a front/rear weight differential matter..compare with a stocker - why not?

You don't even need a pair of bathroom scales, just do them one at a time.
Little chock of wood, to keep the levels the same may help, for the wheel not being weighed.

Here are some photos before I change it round abit