no leaks
- Thread starter tomtietjen
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from Autozone, part number 80189, power brake booster check valve
only $6.00
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 26092_0_0_
fits perfectly on the breather hose coming off the back of the timing cover and then up to the oil tank
I have been using the same one for over two years now keeping my motor completely no leak
only $6.00
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 26092_0_0_
fits perfectly on the breather hose coming off the back of the timing cover and then up to the oil tank
I have been using the same one for over two years now keeping my motor completely no leak
Yes, this is the motormite. I had one for some time. Although they have been known to fail over a time, they have also been known to work over a time.1up3down said:
I now have both the XS unit coming form the low breather and the GP unit manufactured into the mag boss.
Nater_Potater
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Yep, the Motormite/Dorman valve is what I put in mine. Granted, I've only racked up 300 miles since intalling it, but that's almost exclusively at freeway speeds (4500 rpm), and the engine's still absolutely leak-tight.
btw, as my grandfather said, "Do you know who invented the British motorcycle? British Petroleum!"
btw, as my grandfather said, "Do you know who invented the British motorcycle? British Petroleum!"
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I just covered 250 miles with a recently rebuilt 750 Fastback, timed cam breather removed and XS650 reed valve fitted on the back of the timing chest. Cruising at 70mph (4200rpm) i blew about a teacupful through the valve into my catch tank. Return trip (from the NOC National Rally) same deal. I'm thinking that the location of the hole in the back of the timing chest would benefit from a baffle to divert the oil flung up there from the timing gears and chain. The difference it has made is that not routing the breather oil back into the tank means no more mayonnaise in the top of my oil tank.
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yep so many of us combat'rs put the low down baffle up on the old magneto area. In Peel's case a while glove or cleanex rubbed inside the breather tube did not detect any oil residue at all and by golly I sure ran that ole slut into elastic rpm zone routinely.
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I've just got the XS reed valve. Looking it over , it seems to me the outlet tube (the smaller Dia.) should be mounted vertically downward so oil can drain away from the reed. In this regard, it would have to be mounted high on the engine in order to gravity drain the oil to the oil tank, or at least high enough to gravity drain to the chain oiler. And the latter would put oil over the rear wheel.
How are you guys mounting it?
I was planning to put it on my Atlas, which has a timed breather BTW.
How are you guys mounting it?
I was planning to put it on my Atlas, which has a timed breather BTW.
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Mine is stock and no leaks, why? because its no been frigged about with! i have just refaced my mates bsa rocker cover ...why? because some fool had over tightened it, it was bent .
If all british bike owners where proper engineer's the old bikes would have been better regarded.....many engine's suffered from the Big chisel boys.
I remember a lad sawing a head of a royal enfield, because he could not find a suitable spanner...it's a must to have all the correct equipment before attempting any work,use common sence and the bible... otherwise you will be in a world of woe.
If all british bike owners where proper engineer's the old bikes would have been better regarded.....many engine's suffered from the Big chisel boys.
I remember a lad sawing a head of a royal enfield, because he could not find a suitable spanner...it's a must to have all the correct equipment before attempting any work,use common sence and the bible... otherwise you will be in a world of woe.
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to Jim C:
OK....it is horizontal, with the output 90 degreed to the vertical. Doesn't oil from the mist drain down and flood the reed, or is that no problem? Obviously, oil cannot get back to the engine thru the reed valve, so you are totally dependent on the outflow to purge oil.
Also, where are you tapping the engine for the input? How long is the tube from tap to XS valve? Seems to me shorter tube is better.
OK....it is horizontal, with the output 90 degreed to the vertical. Doesn't oil from the mist drain down and flood the reed, or is that no problem? Obviously, oil cannot get back to the engine thru the reed valve, so you are totally dependent on the outflow to purge oil.
Also, where are you tapping the engine for the input? How long is the tube from tap to XS valve? Seems to me shorter tube is better.
It's plumbed from the rear of the crankcase. 1972 Combat.
Never had a problem with oil. If your engine is pushing a lot of oil then you may have problems other than a pressurized crankcase. For the most part air is what's passing through the valve, with some oil mist, I suppose. Anyway, it's all going back to the oil tank. Some like to use a catch can instead of the return to the oil tank. I don't think that's necessary or even desirable.
Never had a problem with oil. If your engine is pushing a lot of oil then you may have problems other than a pressurized crankcase. For the most part air is what's passing through the valve, with some oil mist, I suppose. Anyway, it's all going back to the oil tank. Some like to use a catch can instead of the return to the oil tank. I don't think that's necessary or even desirable.
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