rocker spindle oil leaks

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My bike has developed leaks from the right cylinder head rocker spindles. The gaskets on these were replaced when the engine was rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago. I have tightened up the screws twice now; but the leak is reoccurring; and I am reluctant to overtighten them (just by hand; have not used a torque wrench yet). Any thoughts as the best way to fix? Replace the gaskets? Take it apart and cover the gaskets with gasket sealant? I have seen replacement parts; which I think may be thicker and one piece – would there be an advantage in using these? Should I refit the screws with new threadlocker?

Is this a leak which would benefit from a reed valve? I actually have a pcv valve, and went to fit it this winter on the timing cover blanking plate (1970 with timed breather; Jim’s bolt on sump valve won’t fit), but I could not get the timing plate off – the two top connecters were screws that came out, but the bottom one must have been a bolt with an internal nut; it just turned and did not move; as I write this I realise that I could probably have taken the top nuts off, swivelled the plate around, and got a spanner inside the cavity to hold the nut while taking it off…maybe next winter; but in the meantime is there an easy fix for the rocker spindle leaks?
 
Yes I had/have the same problems stuffed if I know why.
For a while I use to run an oil pressure gauge taking the feed from one of the spindle plates an it has anything up to 60psi there depending on how hot the engine is.
I tried dressing the plates flat on emery paper and holding my tongue in the right place and fitting a gasket and some sealant and managed to stop the leak.
Something in the back of my minds tells me something about installation of the spindles may have some effect, but for the life of me I cant remember (read it maybe bull S@!T). maybe be other may be able to enlighten.

All the best but aint it a bitch

Peter R
 
Simple answer is...They are to thin, the more you tighten them the worst they leak..because they bow...make some from 5mm stainless.
 
Bugger, Just reread your post and your talking spindle plates :D :D and im thinking rocker cover gaskets :roll: :roll: :roll: But the same applies, those pissy paper+ gaskets supplied are crap.., You need thicker gasket material to take up deviations and that sealant i dont want to use below...

Some of the replacement rocker cover gaskets i have been given/used are minimal thickness (0.5mm ish) and i dont like that. There is no "room" to pull down/retorque by hand (3-5lb snug) on subsequent maintanence checks..

IMO as these gaskets are likely to be onoffonoffonoff, the use of sealant is dumb! .. Therefore i use DIY (OMG shame shame) 2+mm thick gasket material and dont have a problem.. Greased up and nominal torque with thick gasket material will secure the oil leaks and be reusable ..

Yes a reed valve PCV will reduce oil leaks but wont help a squashed out paper gasket that has split..

THere is a festoon of spindle plate gasket failures on this site if you want to search!!
 
john robert bould said:
Simple answer is...They are to thin, the more you tighten them the worst they leak..because they bow...make some from 5mm stainless.

Yep +1 and a good gasket...
 
Chris T said:
Is this a leak which would benefit from a reed valve?

No! This is the high pressure side of the oil pump circuit. Has nothing to do with crankcase pressure.

Get some fresh gaskets, dress and true all surfaces, spray both side of the gaskets with cooper coat and torque to specs.
Also, check to make sure the spindle is at least flush.
 
If you have the replacement stainless covers and try to torque them to the spec in the workshop manual the gasket will split and leak. I believe this is because the stainless ones are thinner than the stock steel ones.
Here's what happens.
rocker spindle oil leaks

This ended up peeing out a stream of oil on my foot.
I repaired this using the same cover. Hondabond gasket sealer on all surfaces, blue loctite on the bolts and then tightening by feel until I could see the gasket distort but not crack. Actually had to do it twice before I got it right. So far it has held.
 
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