Oil Leaks

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So I have a couple oil leaks. What's that you say? Isn't that how you tell you still have oil in the bike?

Sigh.

Leak One I think I have fixed.

Oil Leaks

This is the stainless line from Oil Britts. I had kept tightening it down the last couple years and I think that was too much.

Oil Leaks

Here's the aluminum washer that was on it. A wee crushed. It had gotten so thin that the banjo bolt was actually bottoming out and then the oil could just find it's way out. Fresh washers (from Home Depot no less) seems to solved it for now.

But I've still got drips so…

Leak Two is still getting me.

Oil Leaks

Oil Leaks


This is an oil passage that is drilled and sealed at the factory. If I recall, when my brother had the engine he slapped some JB Weld over it but I think that's starting to fail. Any suggestions here? Chip off JB Weld and reapply? Something else?

Thanks!
 
Nothing you can apply from the outside will last very long.
An impact driver and maybe a little heat will usually take it out. Clean it up and reinstall it with blue locktite. Jim
 
It is slotted.

It can be replaced with a socket head setscrew for use with an allen wrench.
 
I always use annealed copper washers, correct size for the banjo, available form hydraulic hose retailers.
 
They are minor leaks and you have been back on the road for sometime now so easy fixed and not bad at all, as most poeple say that have never owned a Norton, if they don't leave their mark, but I have owned my 850 since new and it has only started to leave its mark after 38 years, but only one minor leak.

Ashley
 
Oil Leaks

I cleaned off any JB Weld and tried to get an impact driver on it but the frame tube was in the way. Didn't matter as the impact bits were too big. So I took a regular screwdriver and it came right out.

Oil Leaks

I'll clean all the threads with a degreaser and then screw it back in with the loctite that Jim recommended. Not sure how much torque I can get on it with the frame in the way.

Hopefully that will take care of that leak.
 
Al-otment said:
I always use annealed copper washers, correct size for the banjo, available form hydraulic hose retailers.

Fred said that he use to use copper against the engine but there were too many failures (leaks). Moving to aluminum seems to have helped, except in my case.
 
swooshdave said:
Oil Leaks

I cleaned off any JB Weld and tried to get an impact driver on it but the frame tube was in the way. Didn't matter as the impact bits were too big. So I took a regular screwdriver and it came right out.

Oil Leaks

I'll clean all the threads with a degreaser and then screw it back in with the loctite that Jim recommended. Not sure how much torque I can get on it with the frame in the way.

Hopefully that will take care of that leak.

You should centre punch the case too, ideally so you peen a little alloy over into the screw slot, to prevent it undoing.
 
Update: It wasn't JB Weld, it was just some Yamabond. I guess if it was JB weld I'd still be chipping away.

Does this screw get removed in a typical rebuild?
 
Dave,

In the first photo, you can see the problem. Note the shadow towards the front side of the connection? The washer is clearly being distorted.

Like the engine was bumped on the ground while removing from the bike, or something along those lines.

You have an irregular mating surface that needs dressing, due to that bumping and deformation of the castings.
 
swooshdave said:
Update: It wasn't JB Weld, it was just some Yamabond. I guess if it was JB weld I'd still be chipping away.

Does this screw get removed in a typical rebuild?
Yes, these open the oil passages. Ring and piston matter clog the paths.
Removing all of them and shining a light, along with verious probes, verify the they are clear. This is essential. I am sure many fresh rebuilds done by novices go kaboom or simply fail besause this activity is bypassed or neglected.
 
grandpaul said:
Dave,

In the first photo, you can see the problem. Note the shadow towards the front side of the connection? The washer is clearly being distorted.

Like the engine was bumped on the ground while removing from the bike, or something along those lines.

You have an irregular mating surface that needs dressing, due to that bumping and deformation of the castings.

Paul totally nailed it. I thought I'd checked the flatness but apparently not. I'll take a light file to it and take down the bump.

Thanks!
 
How about annealed copper washers sprayed with copper gasket stuff or if easier to put hands on, silver paint? Just annealing them does wonders for me but the gasket stickum might be the extra push over the cliff (thanks Nigel) you need.
 
Oil Leaks

Blue Loctite, cleaned threads of all oil.

Oil Leaks

Installed. Tightened up and I did hit the edge with a punch. Not sure if it will help.

Oil Leaks

Filed the bump out. Not sure what impact it had, the washer had a dent in it but I think the aluminum may have deflected enough for it not to leak. Doesn't matter as I used another new washer.

Filled the tank and will see if anything comes out tomorrow. If not I'll get some gas and fire her up.
 
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