New York Newbie

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speirmoor

speirmoor

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Hello all
I'm now an owner of a '75 Commando 850 Electric start since Saturday and a new member of this forum since today.The machine is beautiful that's all I can say. I've learned an extreme amount about my machine from the articles I've found here.The most important one dealing with my sore ankle at this time from trying to start this machine!
I will divide my starting issues into two area if thats ok

The first being I know it has electric start but that wasn't working all I hear is the starter motor turning but nothing happens? That cant be normal can it?
Ignoring that and on to the second issue I tried to kickstart the bike and did so successfully but not without suffering a kickback or two(hence the ankle soreness).Ive identified two main problems.
1) Battery was not fully charged (It is now)
2) I need someone to explain to me where TDC is before I kick.Is there a way to tell or how should it feel?

Thanks in Advance
Speirmoor
 
speirmoor said:
Hello all
I'm now an owner of a '75 Commando 850 Electric start since Saturday and a new member of this forum since today.The machine is beautiful that's all I can say. I've learned an extreme amount about my machine from the articles I've found here.The most important one dealing with my sore ankle at this time from trying to start this machine!
Iwill divide my starting issues into two area if thats ok

The first being I know it has electric start but that wasn't working all I hear is the starter motor turning but nothing happens? Is cant be normal can it?
Ignoring that and on to the second issue I tried to kickstart the bike and did so successfully but not without suffering a kickback or two(hence the ankle soreness).Ive identified two main problems.
1) Battery was not fully charged (It is now)
2) I need someone to explain to me where TDC is before I kick.Is there a way to tell or how should it feel?

Thanks in Advance
Speirmoor
Click to expand...

It's by feel. Kickover VERY slowly. When you feel maximum resistance, you're getting close to TDC. Keep going (SLOWLY) until you feel that resistance go away. You are now just past TDC. Now kick. Hard. Pain is a swift teacher. When you get it wrong, she'll let you know.

What kind of ignition does it have? Boyer?
 
It has Boyer ignition (at least that what the PO told me yet to be confirmed but I'm sure it has)
Should I do all this slow feeling out with the key in off position and then at the right time turn it on and go to kick?
 
speirmoor said:
It has Boyer ignition (at least that what the PO told me yet to be confirmed but I'm sure it has)
Should I do all this slow feeling out with the key in off position and then at the right time turn it on and go to kick?
Click to expand...

That's a good way to practice.

You can tell a Boyer by a black box about the size of a pack of cigs usually tucked under the tank towards the front.
 
Hello New York Newbie,

Whereabouts are you? I'm sure I can help if you get into a bind.
 
You better watch out, NYN, if you let holmslice ride your bike it'll end up scraping all the footpegs and kickstands...

The ignition timing settings are critical with a Boyer to minimise kickbacks.
 
That was great advice Swooshdave I tried it on the way home from work and it started right up easily and without pain!
Holmeslice I'm in Sunnnyside Qns
I took a pic to show you guys but the sun messed it up.Theres also a pic of the choke lever.can someone confirm its in the right position? Its turned all the way counterclockwise.
I havent needed it for starting yet (the PO said its only needed in the winter?)
New York Newbie

New York Newbie
 
I say choke lever is ok. It's pulling so the chokes are up which is good.

Nice bike, pic would be better but is that your thumb... :mrgreen:
 
Your pic shows choke in off position as you expected, I have had a few Commando's and they all have started first or second kick from cold without much trouble once you have the feel for the correct position and give a good hard swift kick through using all your weight.
BTW I always have choke on for cold start up winter or summer and tickle both carbs until petrol appears at the tickler, once started I normally take off the choke after about 2 mins depending on ambient temp. If you have a Boyer ignition fitted you need a good battery which is fully charged for best results(if less than 9v the black box will shut down)

Good luck with it, your bike looks superb and picture looks OK considering lighting conditions, it's always good to get the electric start working as you have one just in case you stall it while at the front of a line of cars.
 
Thanks guys for the Info.Any Thoughts on the electric start?.Its turning something but dosent appear to be engaging.The PO told me it was really an electric assist(Whatever that means?).From what Ive read so far the way to go is to upgrade the starter motor and change the starter cable to one with lower resistance.I've exhausted my budget in purchasing this bike (But very happy) so these mods will be done in the future once i free up some funds.
 
What a gorgeous Mark III Roadster!

It sounds like a previous owner had an internal starting drive train problem and removed the offending bit.

You'll need to remove the left side (primary) engine cover and investigate.

www.oldbritts.com has the parts illustrations available onine, just click on "1975", then scroll down to "Primary System"; when the page opens, click the link at the top to display the illustration in a new window.
 
Thank you sir!
It does makes sense that something is missing and will check out prior to spending anything.I'm waiting on a Haynes manual to get a better overview of the machine with regards primary removal procedures etc.
 
Haynes is a manual not to be trusted, its Commnado one has the MK3 ES as an afterthought in the last chapter, there is a MK3 factory manual available for download, posted the link a couple weeks ago but now lost it.
 
The parts illustrations give you a fairly good idea of how things go together. There is a good possibility that you'll need a 3-jaw thin-blade puller to get the alternator rotor off (then again, it could slide off the shaft with a smooth pull); other than that, you should be able to get to all the starter drivetrain bits with basic tools.
 
I bought the factory manuals, no down load. I find having the originals in front of me are better than a printed or photocopied version but that's just me. Just don't buy the boot-legged manuals from ebay. The quaility is total shit and that is what made me buy the actual manual and parts book. Best $45 I ever spent.
 
Won a manual on Ebay and waiting for it to arrive.I was tinkering around today and took some pics of Q's and issues maybe some of you guys can fill me in.
1) firstly right side by the chain guard is this electrical terminal thats attached to nothing? the other wire is grounded to the frame
New York Newbie


2) the sidestand is a pain to use because its tucked right under the exhaust. I bent out the bottom part but it still isnt enough, any ideas?
New York Newbie

New York Newbie


3) Where is the reserve fuel wise? Both petcocks seem to have on/off only? Do I run with only one on and use the other as the reserve?
New York Newbie


4) I have gaps on the handlebar controls. Do these look like OEM grips because they seem too short?
New York Newbie

New York Newbie


5) the horn is not working.When I hit the button I only hear a faint attempt of a sound.I was attempting to check voltage but its in a very tricky spot.Would I be right in asking that the oil tank needs to be removed to access the horn to test/replace it?

Thanks in advance you all have been a great help so far
-Speir
 
OK let me be the first. The horn is the first thing that goes on the bike and everything is built around it.

Just kidding. Or maybe not.

Once you get the horn off and it still does not work it can be taken apart and fixed. DO NOT try to turn the big center screw to adjust it, a small hex head bolt off to one side is the adjustment, but most likey the contacts are pitted. You may need to take the horn apart to clean the contacts (Grind the rivets off). 1000 to 1500 sandpaper does a fine job to clean the contacts but a PITA to get your fingers in there.

I used some nice SS bolts to put mine back together.

Chuck
 
speirmoor said:
3) Where is the reserve fuel wise? Both petcocks seem to have on/off only? Do I run with only one on and use the other as the reserve?
Click to expand...

I believe so.
 
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