Greeting from a New Member and Norton Newbie

Kane it looks pretty good for a oldie, has a few good changes and if that frontend works I leave it be, I run Akront 19" rims on my Norton paid $90 each for them back in the early 80s when converting to the Featherbed and $80 for both rims to be re spoked with all new spokes for the Norton hubs and haven't touched them since, they are a lovely set of rims.
 
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Thanks Ashman!
I appreciate that. The Akront rims suit me fine. They look great and I believe make the wheels lighter than the stock steel rims. Stainless spokes, too. I put Dunlop 404 tires on it, and it rides great. The front end is fine, the brake is not bad with the Magura master cylinder. It’s not on par with my V11’s Brembo brakes with twin floating rotors, but it’s fine for this bike, and the rear drum is good as well.
I’m pretty sure that the mufflers are Dunstalls. Everything seems to work well and in concert, but it’s all new to me and I am still in the honeymoon phase (I am still getting used to the right side one-up-three-down shift). This bike seems much better than the Bonnevilles that I had in the past. Those bikes were great, fun to ride, and nice looking bikes. They did suffer from an annoying vibration around 55-60 mph, some resonant frequency that sent hand numbing vibes up the bars to the grips. Kind of a drag to ride for long distances on the highway. The Norton has good torque and is fast, the gearing is good, and the vibes that I feel are low frequency vibrations that I do not mind, not unlike the vibes on a Guzzi. And these are great looking bikes!
 
Kane said:
Thanks Ashman!
I appreciate that. The Akront rims suit me fine. They look great and I believe make the wheels lighter than the stock steel rims. Stainless spokes, too. I put Dunlop 404 tires on it, and it rides great. The front end is fine, the brake is not bad with the Magura master cylinder. It’s not on par with my V11’s Brembo brakes with twin floating rotors, but it’s fine for this bike, and the rear drum is good as well.
I’m pretty sure that the mufflers are Dunstalls. Everything seems to work well and in concert, but it’s all new to me and I am still in the honeymoon phase (I am still getting used to the right side one-up-three-down shift). This bike seems much better than the Bonnevilles that I had in the past. Those bikes were great, fun to ride, and nice looking bikes. They did suffer from an annoying vibration around 55-60 mph, some resonant frequency that sent hand numbing vibes up the bars to the grips. Kind of a drag to ride for long distances on the highway. The Norton has good torque and is fast, the gearing is good, and the vibes that I feel are low frequency vibrations that I do not mind, not unlike the vibes on a Guzzi. And these are great looking bikes!
Click to expand...
Would be interesting to see if the isolastic mounts have been changed out for later adjustable type fittings...pull back the rubbers to check ?
 
KiwiShane said:
Would be interesting to see if the isolastic mounts have been changed out for later adjustable type fittings...pull back the rubbers to check ?
Click to expand...
I am not even sure what I’d be looking at! You guys have really enlightened me to a lot. I need to study up on the isolastic system. Is the later adjustable system a Norton thing, like on a Mk. III, or is it aftermarket? I think that my bike is a 1974 Mk. II or Mk. IIA.
 
Kane said:
I am not even sure what I’d be looking at! You guys have really enlightened me to a lot. I need to study up on the isolastic system. Is the later adjustable system a Norton thing, like on a Mk. III, or is it aftermarket? I think that my bike is a 1974 Mk. II or Mk. IIA.
Click to expand...
Its the MKIII upgrade....which may have already been done...makes adjustments quick and simple.
These are a top notch example in S/S you would be looking for the fittings under the rubber similar to these. that are available from other suppliers like Andover Norton etc
coloradonortonworks.net

cNw Mk3 Style Isolastics Conversion

Both front and rear new internal rubbers Front and rear new PTFE friction washers Complete stainless Isolastics kit with Adjusters, Abutments and Cups All stainless parts are show polished Machined, powder coated (Gloss Black) and prepped front engine mount The front mount is assembled and ready...
coloradonortonworks.net coloradonortonworks.net
 
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If the Norton is handling good and is smooth on the ride I wouldn't worry about the Isolastics as you will know when they need attention, I don't like disturbing things just to look see, I am old school if it's not broke leave it alone, just get out on it and ride, enjoy it and the right shift is the right shift, everyone else got it wrong, if clutch and primary chain is adjusted right the right hand shifts are very smooth and use ATF-F for your primary oil 7 floz only and don't over fill your gearbox or it will migrate down the shaft to the clutch, I measure all my fluids by the book with a good measure cup.

Ashley
 
Kane said:
Hello to all,
this is Cliff from Southern California. I have just acquired a 1974 Norton Commando. This is a bike that I have wanted for a long time. I had a few Triumphs when I began riding many years ago, but never a Norton. I have been riding Guzzis and a Ducati for the past few years, and this Norton is a real blast. It is bringing me the type of joy I remember from when I first began riding!
This place looks to be the fount of knowledge for all things Norton, and I am happy to have found you and to be here. I hope that I will be able to contribute in some way.
I do have a question. I had the bike for a few weeks, riding it everyday. I just returned from 10 days away, and sure enough the engine is wet sumped and the oil in the tank is down below the screen at the bottom. I have been reading about wet sumping and I understand what it is. But for draining the engine case, is the practice to drain from the large plug for the crankcase strainer, or from the smaller more forwardly placed drain plug? Also, is anyone currently making the large crankcase strainer plug with the small drain plug in the middle? I saw it on the Old Britts website but it looks like they have closed up shop.
Also, the bike handles great, but when taking my hands off of the bars it wants to slightly drift to the left. The tires are new, the rims look good and the wheels look to be aligned……any advice on what to look for? Would a fault or misadjustment in the isolastic system cause this? The bike has evidence of a lowside but the frame looks fine, but I am certainly not an authority. I hope you guys don’t mind my questions. This is my first Norton rodeo.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Hi Kane , welcome , mine would wet sump like yours , I just fitted a MK3 timing cover it's got little plunger and spring over the pump discharge , it's worked a treat on my 750 . Cheers.
 
Kane said:
I need to study up on the isolastic system. Is the later adjustable system a Norton thing, like on a Mk. III, or is it aftermarket?
Click to expand...

There are two main types of vernier kit, one of which is based on the Mk3 (the front pre-Mk3 conversion kit differs slightly from the actual Mk3 Iso.)...
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16920/isolastic-kit-rear-vernier-all-commando-

...and the 'Hemmings' kit that replaces one original front and one rear 'collar' with adjustable collars, however, the Hemmings kit has been out of production for some time.
 
Welcome There is a lot of great guidance on this forum! One of mine , to help with oil leaks is to add a PCV valve between engine breather hose and oil tank! It allows the engine to pull a vacuum that is beneficial to the oil control. Standard # V112 fits perfectly. Much cheaper and works..

Have fun!
 
Welcome Kane. I’m over in Torrance, 20 minutes south of LAX and you are welcome to come over with your bike and we can take a look. I’ve got a few Commando of various vintages so we can walk through the model differences. I’m retired as last week so quite open.
 
Kane said:
That sounds bad. I was gone for 10 days between when I rode last and later checked the tank, and, like you are describing, the oil level in the tank was below the screen. So it’s happening in 10 days, or perhaps less. Until I can improve this, as it seems that it can be helped, I’m planning on being diligent with monitoring the oil tank.

The play that I am seeing is at the rear sprocket / hub, looking down from the fender‘s edge to the tire, and the chain to the exhaust pipe. The 1/2” is a what It looks like, maybe a bit more, but I’ll revisit it and try to get an accurate measurement.
Thank you for the tip and info on avoiding grease at the nipple!
This is a 50-year-old bike with much of its history unknown. I wish I had a proper bike stand to get it off the ground and give it a thorough inspection and treatment.
Click to expand...
AMR in Tucson can do a anti-drain fix to your outer timing cover which is like the OE one used in the Mk3 models. Mike shut down his shop some time ago but as far as I know still does the modification.
John in Texas
 
KiwiShane said:
Would be interesting to see if the isolastic mounts have been changed out for later adjustable type fittings...pull back the rubbers to check ?
Click to expand...
I took a look and took some pics. It looks like it has shims, but I am not sure if it’s the original or if it’s been upgraded to the Mk. III type. I don’t think it’s the Hemings kit as I don’t see any grub screws. The front and rear rubber covers on left side have been cut off or removed. The rubbers on the right side are in rough shape but both have been retained. Hopefully the pics will make sense. I’ll dig into the workshop manual and check for adjustment. As mentioned, the bike rides fine and I am not noticing the “Norton Weave” that I just heard about.

After looking at a timeline for engine and frame numbers I think this bike may be a Mk. I rather than a Mk. II that I believed and stated it was. I’ll put that question to another post.
Thanks. You guys are awesome!
 

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Kane said:
It looks like it has shims
Click to expand...

If the Isos. have shims then they won't (shouldn't) be visible. What you could be looking at are the PTFE washers (one at each end).
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

Kane said:
but I am not sure if it’s the original or if it’s been upgraded to the Mk. III type. I don’t think it’s the Hemings kit as I don’t see any grub screws.
Click to expand...

Both types of vernier adjuster collars should have a row of holes, however, the 'factory' type adjuster holes are only to insert a tool for adjustment and do not take grub screws as they aren't threaded. The factory vernier is locked by tightening the through-bolt (front) or stud (rear) after adjustment. Edit: Each vernier 'fixed' abutment should have one threaded hole for a grub screw.

Mk3 front vernier adjuster with a rod (spoke) inserted. The rear is similar.
Greeting from a New Member and Norton Newbie
 
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Kane said:
I took a look and took some pics. It looks like it has shims, but I am not sure if it’s the original or if it’s been upgraded to the Mk. III type. I don’t think it’s the Hemings kit as I don’t see any grub screws. The front and rear rubber covers on left side have been cut off or removed. The rubbers on the right side are in rough shape but both have been retained. Hopefully the pics will make sense. I’ll dig into the workshop manual and check for adjustment. As mentioned, the bike rides fine and I am not noticing the “Norton Weave” that I just heard about.

After looking at a timeline for engine and frame numbers I think this bike may be a Mk. I rather than a Mk. II that I believed and stated it was. I’ll put that question to another post.
Thanks. You guys are awesome!
Click to expand...
Well another bonus...they have been up graded to the adjustable type 👍
The first 3-4 engine/frame numbers would be good to determine a few things...
 
Engine/frame plate/gearbox number 300000 - 307311 should make it an 850 Mk1. Less likely to be a Mk1A (European low noise emission model) as it's a US bike.
 

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