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It happens to us all at times Alan!

And BTW, good job on the turn signals, they’re much neater now.
 
alan hodge said:
gentlemen..sorry for flying off handle i guess i was feeling 'picked on' but see the wisdom of correcting the routing. again, my sincere apologies for acting juvenile
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It could be a lot worse, if you want "genuine" anal retentiveness you should get a Trident and visit Triplesonline.

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alan hodge said:
gentlemen..sorry for flying off handle i guess i was feeling 'picked on' but see the wisdom of correcting the routing. again, my sincere apologies for acting juvenile
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OK, these things happen. No harm done. Perhaps I should've added an explanation for my comment but I'd only mentioned it to another member the day before.

Anyhow, let's forget it.
 
And if you look for Commando z-plates on eBay you'll always see some that have an obvious wear spot at the bottom of the left one. Worn by incorrect brake cable routing.
 
One thing about the Service Release is that they are not the peashooter plates on the drawing. They are the black cap/bean can plates (and the triangular muffler plate is drawn inverted!).

If the cable is routed between the 'inner muffler bracket' and 'outer passenger footrest hanger bracket' as shown with peashooter plates the cable also has to pass between the inner muffler bracket and outer muffler bracket where the muffler fasteners (studs or bolts) can chafe the cable sleeving which needs additional protection so I'm not convinced that particular Service Release was intended for Commandos with peashooter exhausts.

https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...e-rear-brake-cable-routing.27410/#post-413608

'Factory' and brochure pics show the cable passing behind the inner muffler bracket where peashooters or Intersate silencers/mufflers are fitted.

http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Brochures/Brochures.htm
 
I'm just glad that you returned. Conversing with good folks is a treat, and I for one enjoy your input.
 
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I will see if I got a photo of the route ... hope you can see this okay and that it correct ...
 
Did you have the tailight machined to clear the rear loop, or did you source it that way?

Signals and seat look much better now.
 
taillight was that way when i got it it's actually one of those aluminum emgo-ish ones and the person i got it from for $19 on ebay had cut the pieces out with a grinder or dremel or something like that
 
As best as I can tell from your picture Craig, your cable routing is wrong. The cable goes between the plates that sandwich the Z plate
 
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So much for hope , eh ....sorry Alan , maybe some one who got it correct will put up a photo ....
 
Don't give up hope so fast, If LAB tells me I'm wrong too... there's still hope!

*On my commando I have a yamaha wheel with the brake drum on the opposite side of the wheel, so it's been a while since I had a stock drum brake on my bike...
 
Just used the link above , on the blue ‘72 Roadster it sure looks like I got it right , surprising , eh .... I do try not to offer info I’m not really sure on .... but it had been quite some time that Les had kindly suggested I had it wrong and think he even provided correct info but it was a while ago .... anyways, Alan now doubt been cast on my photo guess you can hope someone else sticks their neck out , to offer you some help
 
The diagram does show the cable running between the two plates over the top of the z-plate. Perhaps the only unmoved item on my bike is this cable which still sits in this position. Over time it does wear a groove in the plastic cover but has yet to cause damage to the housing. Mine is old and nasty and should be replaced after all of these years.
I once attempted to find a better way only to discover the original is best with the least amount of binding & restriction providing no interference with anything else.
 
jbruney said:
The diagram does show the cable running between the two plates over the top of the z-plate. Perhaps the only unmoved item on my bike is this cable which still sits in this position. Over time it does wear a groove in the plastic cover but has yet to cause damage to the housing. Mine is old and nasty and should be replaced after all of these years.
I once attempted to find a better way only to discover the original is best with the least amount of binding & restriction providing no interference with anything else.
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