New member. First English bike!
- Thread starter danfr
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Simpler than pie to convert from posEarth to negGround, just get a Tympanium or Podtronics or a billzion other units on about every cycle made since the Brit Iron hey day, combined potted rectifier regulator and toss the Zenor and the blue can capacitor and assassinator gizmo and away ya go. Don't expect brighter lights unless relayed power supply. Stock Cdo's use a two wire under 200 watt rated rec/reg. Don't tell anyone at rallys of they may steal your fuse out to protect the faith.
DogT
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The zener diode is a voltage regulator so the battery does not overcharge. It dumps the excess voltage/current to ground in the form of heat or wasted energy. We don't even know what Dan has in the way of regulation or anything related to the electrics. There's lots more information we need to know from Dan before we start speculating. For all we know it's been converted to - ground and the zener is not there and some sort of podtronics has been installed?
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
DogT
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Then he needs to figure it out. No? Sounds like a plan to me. I'm not trying to be mean, but we really don't know what we are dealing with and assuming it's original may send Dan in the wrong direction. He needs to find and show us the parts.Rohan said:
The wiring diagram in the parts book or in the service manual should be sufficient to figure out if it's original or not. If it's original, there's a zener and the negative end of the battery through the harness is connected to the spade lug on the zener, it's + ground. And the red wire (+ from the battery) should be connected to the ground lug under the zener. It's all in the wiring diagram, but we still don't know what year it is. This is all my conjecture and only one possibility.
Dave
69S
You know,
he really doesn't need the wiring harness, zener, ignition switch or any of that stuff to get his engine to run.
He could just install the boyer and connect it straight to a 12 volt battery to get spark, bypassing all of that other stuff.
I see that it has coils, plug wires, etc...
If the goal is to just make it run, that's the quickest option.
I would like to see some more detailed pics of the bike.
Dirt Racing Bike? I'm not convinced.
It looks pretty stock to me, different seat, shocks, fork gaiters, that looks to be about it to me.
does taking off the headlight and bobbing the rear fender make a bike a racing machine?
he really doesn't need the wiring harness, zener, ignition switch or any of that stuff to get his engine to run.
He could just install the boyer and connect it straight to a 12 volt battery to get spark, bypassing all of that other stuff.
I see that it has coils, plug wires, etc...
If the goal is to just make it run, that's the quickest option.
I would like to see some more detailed pics of the bike.
Dirt Racing Bike? I'm not convinced.
It looks pretty stock to me, different seat, shocks, fork gaiters, that looks to be about it to me.
does taking off the headlight and bobbing the rear fender make a bike a racing machine?
danfr
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Ok, I'm on my way home to Victoria for the weekend to work on the bike (and maybe say hi to te miss). I'm sure I'll be able to identify if its positive or negative ground as soon as I have a look. I grabbed the bike in a whirlwind as it was before class started.
The plan for the weekend is to give it a physical clean and see if I can get it to fire up. I'll be hooking the battery from my Honda 750 to the coils (and boyer i suppose). Fuel, spark and compression is really all you need to see if it'll run.
Dirt track racer? I'm only going by what the PO has told me and what I see. Looks like he did take it on the track, but who knows (or cares) he could have just taken it out back and hit up the trails. What I see is what I get. I will asses what there is.
I'll take some pics and report back. This may turn into a project thread....
The plan for the weekend is to give it a physical clean and see if I can get it to fire up. I'll be hooking the battery from my Honda 750 to the coils (and boyer i suppose). Fuel, spark and compression is really all you need to see if it'll run.
Dirt track racer? I'm only going by what the PO has told me and what I see. Looks like he did take it on the track, but who knows (or cares) he could have just taken it out back and hit up the trails. What I see is what I get. I will asses what there is.
I'll take some pics and report back. This may turn into a project thread....
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I love Victoria B.C. , newly weds and nearly deads , heard that one ? Pick some flowers for us and keep your ASSES out of the thornbushes. Comox had a Norton shop a while back , still operating ?
Guido
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danfr said:
Question #1 is not an uneducated question as they all started out as positive ground. Check to make sure it hasn't been converted to neg ground.
#2 The coils should be both 6v in a 12v system and is what you should run with an electronic ignition.
#3 is just an iteration of different models of the Commando with the MKIII being a '75
#4 I can't help you there. I had a Boyer and switched to a Tri-Spark. No regets.
Get a good manual for the bike and a parts book. They both make good reading on the toilet.
worntorn said:
Is that a good thing or bad thing?
davamb said:
Well, it would seem so...
Torontonian said:
That's old hat, now it's:
Home of the newly wed,
the nearly dead and,
The NORTON DREAD!!!
I brought this BAD BOY back to Victoria a few months back.
I'm not trying to hijack your thread Daniel but I figured birds of a feather...
Since I work through the weekends it will be a little difficult to connect but I'm happy to drop by and offer any assistance I'm able to.
We want more pics too man.
danfr
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Well the cleaning process has started. I'll upload some photos once I get back to Van and have my computer.
I've pulled the carbs and started cleaning them up. Someone painted the carbs so I'll need to get that off there. There's a good solid inch of grime and dirt that I'm working off, but it's a lot of work to be done. Once it's all cleaned up, I'll get some oil in the engine and see if she lights up.
With the big whole in the primary, do I need to worry about sealing that up beforehand or can it run dry? I'm assuming that it's depending on the clutch?
And yes it is POSITVE ground.
Cheers
Daniel
I've pulled the carbs and started cleaning them up. Someone painted the carbs so I'll need to get that off there. There's a good solid inch of grime and dirt that I'm working off, but it's a lot of work to be done. Once it's all cleaned up, I'll get some oil in the engine and see if she lights up.
With the big whole in the primary, do I need to worry about sealing that up beforehand or can it run dry? I'm assuming that it's depending on the clutch?
And yes it is POSITVE ground.
Cheers
Daniel
Welcome Dan
To address the question you asked initially, most Nortoneers regard the timed crankcase breather as inadequate, which leads to oil seepage problems if not serious leaks. If your bike has the large sump plug, CNW supplies a replacement plug with an integrated reed valve breather which seems to be the best solution. (Search "Post installation of Comnoz sump breather"). If your bike is a 71, it shouldn't have the frame cross tube under the back of the engine, which would be in the way of this breather.
Alternatively, you can do what Norton did on later models and convert to timing case breathing (which I am in the process of doing on my 70 model). This involves drilling some holes in the right side crankcase so the crankcase breathes into the timing chest, then adding an outlet port at the back of the timing case. Several forum members have reported good results from adding a Yamaha XS 650 reed valve to their timing case breathers - available from Mikes XS.
Cheers
Martin
To address the question you asked initially, most Nortoneers regard the timed crankcase breather as inadequate, which leads to oil seepage problems if not serious leaks. If your bike has the large sump plug, CNW supplies a replacement plug with an integrated reed valve breather which seems to be the best solution. (Search "Post installation of Comnoz sump breather"). If your bike is a 71, it shouldn't have the frame cross tube under the back of the engine, which would be in the way of this breather.
Alternatively, you can do what Norton did on later models and convert to timing case breathing (which I am in the process of doing on my 70 model). This involves drilling some holes in the right side crankcase so the crankcase breathes into the timing chest, then adding an outlet port at the back of the timing case. Several forum members have reported good results from adding a Yamaha XS 650 reed valve to their timing case breathers - available from Mikes XS.
Cheers
Martin
welcome danfr, you' ve picked the right bike and the right site!! lots of very helpful folks here. take a look at Oldbritts site, I bought one of their powerarc ignitions and it really help me to get my bike started after it had been sitting for more than 20 years too, the kit includes everything you need. also look at atlantic green, JSmotorsports, CNW etc.... I'm liking the pipes on that thing, let me know if you want to sell them 
Cj
Cj
danfr
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ok! Picture time! This bike is dirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrty!
Carb Cleaning!
Can anyone interpret the carbs? 930's? Mains were 260, pilot 107. The intake engine throat (not manifold) diameter on the engine itself looks to be 1 1/8.
The busted primary. Any have a spare??
Top of the triple tree clamp. Looks like this will need replacing
Carb Cleaning!
Can anyone interpret the carbs? 930's? Mains were 260, pilot 107. The intake engine throat (not manifold) diameter on the engine itself looks to be 1 1/8.
The busted primary. Any have a spare??
Top of the triple tree clamp. Looks like this will need replacing
danfr
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mystery box. Both coils on the positive side were hooked up to it. My Honda mindset is saying condenser......?
right next to the rear fender mount....
Ground?
sure looks like a rectifier.....? What is that silver tab beside it?
and below the 'rectifier', what are these pyramidal mounts?
right next to the rear fender mount....
Ground?
sure looks like a rectifier.....? What is that silver tab beside it?
and below the 'rectifier', what are these pyramidal mounts?
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danfr said:
Amal 30mm. Look at the Amal site for "Premier" carbs and slides.
You are probably looking for new slides as they wear quickly. If the body is worn then new premiers would be my preference if you want original. If you are prepared to modify, there are a variety of carby options.
The items I always fit to commando motors are :-
1. Good Carbs are essential
2. Electronic ignition (I use Trispark, but there are a variety of good ones)
3. Breathers. Either large open breathers or reed valve type. As previously suggested there is a Comnoz unit if you search this site. Its a work of art.
Congratulations on saving another commando. By the time you have finished this and throw a leg over a well running Commando, you will either have a life long love affair, (or just go nuts)
Cheers
Mark
Yep, 930's not 32mm;
You can get the cover welded, it is the older style with the deep recesses and hard to find for cheap prices. The cover is held on by the one nut right beside the hole and it should be removed to clean inside and get metal bits out.;
That's the tach mount cup that's broken, no biggie;
Yep, you nailed it, condensers and the rectifier;
That is the zener diode but it looks fried probably from being mounted on steel that wouldn't pass the excess energy as heat. It should be mounted on aluminum as a heat sink to dissipate the energy as heat;
Pyramid things are the side cover locator pins, just need new rubber;
Hopefully one of those numbers will match the frame number, definitely not the only bike on the road with mismatched numbers. MVB goes by frame number.
Below the numbers is the cam driven breather, correct for 1971.
Yes it's dirty and grungy but maybe that's why it's not badly rusted like so many others. It's the right thing that you're going to change all the fluids, eng, tranny, primary and fork tubes.
Great pictures, hope to meet you next weekend!
You can get the cover welded, it is the older style with the deep recesses and hard to find for cheap prices. The cover is held on by the one nut right beside the hole and it should be removed to clean inside and get metal bits out.;
That's the tach mount cup that's broken, no biggie;
Yep, you nailed it, condensers and the rectifier;
That is the zener diode but it looks fried probably from being mounted on steel that wouldn't pass the excess energy as heat. It should be mounted on aluminum as a heat sink to dissipate the energy as heat;
Pyramid things are the side cover locator pins, just need new rubber;
Hopefully one of those numbers will match the frame number, definitely not the only bike on the road with mismatched numbers. MVB goes by frame number.
Below the numbers is the cam driven breather, correct for 1971.
Yes it's dirty and grungy but maybe that's why it's not badly rusted like so many others. It's the right thing that you're going to change all the fluids, eng, tranny, primary and fork tubes.
Great pictures, hope to meet you next weekend!
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Those pyramidal mounts are two of the three points of attachment for the left side cover. I've got an extra primary cover, it's not great, but way better than that one. I'll dig it out next time I'm at my shop. PM me with your email and I'll send you a pic of it. If ya want it, just pay for shipping.
Rennie all yours needs is some spoked wheels.?
Rennie all yours needs is some spoked wheels.?
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