New Idiot on the Block

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FreeRadical said:
Am I missing something here???

Kevin
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I mentioned wrench sizing in my first post. I guess you missed that. The British Automotive industry started changing over to a Unified screw thread back in the mid 1950's. The motorcycle industry didn't start using Unified fasteners until the later 1960's. The Unified fasteners use the exact same sized wrenches as those used on American fasteners. As a matter of fact Unified and American Standard hardware can be considered interchangeable. Also the screws that appear to be Phillips head are actually Posi-Drive. So get a #2 posi-drive screwdriver as well. Posi-Drive will be used on carburetors, fenders, etc.

Here is copy from my MGA Service Manual describing Unified hardware and its identification. I hope this helpful,
Pete


New Idiot on the Block
 
Ok. This makes a lot more sense today than it did last night after a few beers! Sounds like if my WW don't fit or are too loose, SAE should work. After trying some random hex heads, this seems to be the case.

Are there any other Pozi-screw driver sizes I will need besides the #2? Once my "Norton for Dummies" manual arrives, I'm going to tackle to Amals.

Thanks again to all,

Kevin
 
FreeRadical said:
Are there any other Pozi-screw driver sizes I will need besides the #2? Once my "Norton for Dummies" manual arrives, I'm going to tackle to Amals.
Kevin
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A #1 posi drive screwdriver is used on 6 sheet metal screws on the rear wheel's aluminum hub disc and 2 sheet metal screws on the accessory receptacle located on the right side of the bike.

Instead of getting actual screwdrivers you might want to get screwdriver tips that plug into magnetic screwdriver holders.
 
FreeRadical said:
Once my "Norton for Dummies" manual arrives, I'm going to tackle to Amals.

Thanks again to all,

Kevin
Click to expand...

Kevin,

OK, this is one of those important areas to get right. One of the problems with Norton's and Amal carbs is the idle / pilot circuit gets plugged-up with solids that are extremely difficult to remove completely. There are tiny passages that you need to get really clean or you'll have idling problems. I use a guitar string and compressed air to help clear the debris. There's nothing worse than having to sit in traffic with a big kick-start bike that won't idle and constantly blipping the throttle to keep it alive. An ultrasonic cleaner is good tool to use (Plus you can clean the wife's jewelery). Then when you think you have them absolutely clean, clean them again.

I found this guy's video pretty useful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIYgj5m9RW0
 
New age lean burn spiked gasoline hardly leaves any varnish anymore so its whitish zinic oxide crust dissolved out of the carb 'pot' metal same as on coaches noses percipatating out, so only phyiscally removal by a probe/needle/correct # drill or a few minutes boil in mild organic acid like vinegar or phos acid can clear tiny pilot passages. Btw Amal screws are hard to tighten enough to stay put when carbs heated/vibed/pulsed so found a smear of RTV was best to 'glue' screws stable yet still easy to remove. Blue locktie smear held so tight almost chewed up the screw slots trying to undo later.
 
I've heard of folks retofitting their old Amal slides with the new premier. Is this something I have to do right away or can I get the thing running first and upgrade later. There is a little over 6000 miles on the engine.

Kevin
 
Of course you can get her a' runnin' first. It's your bike so do what you want but we will stop you if you get idiotic. :|
 
FreeRadical said:
I've heard of folks retofitting their old Amal slides with the new premier. Is this something I have to do right away or can I get the thing running first and upgrade later. There is a little over 6000 miles on the engine.

Kevin
Click to expand...


+1000 on this one. Did this with my Norton and both my Triumphs. Improved their idle performance immediately. But it's important that the carbs be from a low miles bike and not too worn out. I think you're safe on that front.

JUST DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE MOUNTS, FLOAT BOWL SCREWS, OR CARB TOPS.. Surface sand them to make sure they are flat then just snug them up.

My recommendation is if you don't ride it for a week or more, drain the carbs. Only use ethanol free fuel, premium. And keep stabil in the mix.
 
FreeRadical said:
I've heard of folks retofitting their old Amal slides with the new premier. Is this something I have to do right away or can I get the thing running first and upgrade later. There is a little over 6000 miles on the engine.

Kevin
Click to expand...

Your current carbs shouldn't be too worn but you never know until you take them apart. The P.O. said it was "purring like a kitten" so they may be fine. There's something noble about retaining as many the original components as possible on these old bikes. But then you'll have to buy a couple rebuild kits which will run you $40-60. Maybe another $40-50 on jets and needles depending on what you have. Then figure on several hours of labor. I see Amal Premiers going for around $360 a set now. You can flip the old carbs on eBay for $100 and recoup your investment. If you got the funds it kinda seems like a no-brainer.
 
Torontonian said:
...but we will stop you if you get idiotic. :|
Click to expand...
First, we need to define "idiotic". I would submit that, using current logic, owning/riding/maintaining an old British bike is the definition of Idiotic in itself! However, I was never one to follow popular opinion...

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
Torontonian said:
...but we will stop you if you get idiotic. :|
Click to expand...
First, we need to define "idiotic". I would submit that, using current logic, owning/riding/maintaining an old British bike is the definition of Idiotic in itself! However, I was never one to follow popular opinion...

Nathan
Click to expand...


Would disagree. Took my old Triumph on the vintage ride yesterday and each and every time it started 1st kick. Better than one guys new electric start Bonny which took 4 tries of the magic button to get going.

My Norton is always the same way.

And the ONLY bike that ever left me stranded....my 06 Scrambler when the igniter went south. My old Brits that I've been riding now for 20+ years have NEVER failed to get me home.
 
lrutt said:
Nater_Potater said:
Torontonian said:
...but we will stop you if you get idiotic. :|
Click to expand...
First, we need to define "idiotic". I would submit that, using current logic, owning/riding/maintaining an old British bike is the definition of Idiotic in itself! However, I was never one to follow popular opinion...

Nathan
Click to expand...


Would disagree. Took my old Triumph on the vintage ride yesterday and each and every time it started 1st kick. Better than one guys new electric start Bonny which took 4 tries of the magic button to get going.

My Norton is always the same way.

And the ONLY bike that ever left me stranded....my 06 Scrambler when the igniter went south. My old Brits that I've been riding now for 20+ years have NEVER failed to get me home.
Click to expand...

No argument from my end! The old girl has never let me down, but we do spend a fair amount more "quality time" together in the shed than anything else I ride. Like I said, "current logic". And, quite honestly, I'm not comfortable calling the current state of affairs "logic".

Nathan
 
OK guys, three minutes into working on the carbs, and I'm already stuck. Can anyone tell me the best way to get the Amal off the bike? The tickler is in way of the bolt I am trying to remove. I can hear my daughter saying "Dad, you're DOING it wrong!". I couldn't agree more!

New Idiot on the Block



Thanks a bunch,
Kevin
 
FreeRadical said:
OK guys, three minutes into working on the carbs, and I'm already stuck. Can anyone tell me the best way to get the Amal off the bike? The tickler is in way of the bolt I am trying to remove. I can hear my daughter saying "Dad, you're DOING it wrong!". I couldn't agree more!
Click to expand...

Remove the carbs by unbolting the manifolds from the head with the carbs still attached (using a cut down Allen key to remove the manifold to head bolts) then separate the carbs from the manifolds (if required).


New Idiot on the Block
 
I would have saw the tickler off, with the saw i had just had for my 10 year old birthday :lol: some 55 years ago.



FreeRadical said:
OK guys, three minutes into working on the carbs, and I'm already stuck. Can anyone tell me the best way to get the Amal off the bike? The tickler is in way of the bolt I am trying to remove. I can hear my daughter saying "Dad, you're DOING it wrong!". I couldn't agree more!

New Idiot on the Block



Thanks a bunch,
Kevin
Click to expand...
 
I had to take the manifold off with the carb. You will need a short allen wrench.

I could not get a wrench on the inside carburetor mounting nut.

Dennis
 
john robert bould said:
I would have saw the tickler off, with the saw i had just had for my 10 year old birthday :lol: some 55 years ago.
Click to expand...

But then you'd still have to loosen the inner nut-which is almost impossible to get a spanner to, and even if you did you wouldn't be able to turn it.
 
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